Cam Install - How hard?
- Thread starter twoloosescrews
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keepinitril
Member
I havent dont the cam, but I have done all the other crap possible,
Pull the serpentine belt.
Drain from the petcock
disconnect your intake stuff, start with the maf meter and work up to the throttlebody.
oil fill to the throttle body, pcv
disconnect the trottle linkage. and the egr coolant lines, the connectors to the egr, the IAC solenoid, and the temp sensor, the top coolant hose(radiator to lower intake)
pull the 5.0 plaque off the manifold
pull out the distributor, mark where everything is
disconnect the black and the white connectors the huge ones
6 bolts on the upper now, 2 front, 2 under plaque, 2 on back, the drivers side back will be a bitch! There will be a nut on top of a bracket.
disconnect all the stuff from the vacuum tee, but leave the big one that goes to the back of the manifold. And while youre there, unbolt the vacuum tee
now you should have the upper off.
disconnect the fuel rails
on the lower set of head bolts on the passenger side, there is a nut that holds down the fuel lines, pull off the nut, not the bolt, and move the lines out of the way.
pull of the valve covers
pull off the rockers. then pull the lifters out
disconnect the heater core rear of the bay, passenger side.
pull off the lower intake.
ok, pull the lifters, dogbones and all that crap
(this part I dont know)
pull the bracket around the water pump, then the fan, then the water pump. pull the shroud, then the radiator. pull the crank pulley. then the timing cover. out comes the timing gears. out comes the old cam, in goes the new one
(I dont know it you can do it without pulling off the front everything, other then the radiator).
take off the coolant rail from the old intake. Tap the ACT sensor (3/8 NPT) on the new one, also tap for the EGR coolant(3/8 NPT). pull off the fuel rails (8mm) and put in the new injectors, on the new lower intake.
and the big vaccum line that still has the vacuum tee, put that on the new intake upper.
If you plan on attaching the white and black plugs to the part under the 5.0 plaque, youll need to grind for it
put on all the stuff on the front of the motor, you need RTV somewhere on the crank, I forget(look up an underdrive pulley install video on american muscle)
put in the lifters and dogbones and crap. then the push rods and the the rockers, then the valve covers.
now comes the lower intake manifold, the torque pattern is crazy, yould have to look it up. put the right stuff in small spots round the EGR ports on the heads, and on the top parts of the coolant holes(the ones that dont do anything) and then lay in the new gaskets. put some right stuff into the rubber pieces that you got(if you didnt get them its fine). The rubber pieces are for the front and back of the deck.
reconnect the heater core. connect the egr coolant line, tighten it up(you dont wanna screw with it later)
do the thing with the thermostat, pellet goes in, nipple stays out.
a little bit of rtv around the egr passage on the lower intake to make the gasket stay.
youll need a vaccum Y for the back vaccum line on the upper, it will go the the fuel regulator and for smog pump.
get the upper in by getting the vaccum tee under the AC hose. reconnect the vaccum lines while the upper isnt bolted down.
ok, now bolt it down
put the throttlebody and ER back on, reconnect the IAC solenoid, the temp sensors, and the throttle/TV linkage
back goes the distributor and plug wires
back goes the intake hose, and the mass air meter
I think I got most of it
Pull the serpentine belt.
Drain from the petcock
disconnect your intake stuff, start with the maf meter and work up to the throttlebody.
oil fill to the throttle body, pcv
disconnect the trottle linkage. and the egr coolant lines, the connectors to the egr, the IAC solenoid, and the temp sensor, the top coolant hose(radiator to lower intake)
pull the 5.0 plaque off the manifold
pull out the distributor, mark where everything is
disconnect the black and the white connectors the huge ones
6 bolts on the upper now, 2 front, 2 under plaque, 2 on back, the drivers side back will be a bitch! There will be a nut on top of a bracket.
disconnect all the stuff from the vacuum tee, but leave the big one that goes to the back of the manifold. And while youre there, unbolt the vacuum tee
now you should have the upper off.
disconnect the fuel rails
on the lower set of head bolts on the passenger side, there is a nut that holds down the fuel lines, pull off the nut, not the bolt, and move the lines out of the way.
pull of the valve covers
pull off the rockers. then pull the lifters out
disconnect the heater core rear of the bay, passenger side.
pull off the lower intake.
ok, pull the lifters, dogbones and all that crap
(this part I dont know)
pull the bracket around the water pump, then the fan, then the water pump. pull the shroud, then the radiator. pull the crank pulley. then the timing cover. out comes the timing gears. out comes the old cam, in goes the new one
(I dont know it you can do it without pulling off the front everything, other then the radiator).
take off the coolant rail from the old intake. Tap the ACT sensor (3/8 NPT) on the new one, also tap for the EGR coolant(3/8 NPT). pull off the fuel rails (8mm) and put in the new injectors, on the new lower intake.
and the big vaccum line that still has the vacuum tee, put that on the new intake upper.
If you plan on attaching the white and black plugs to the part under the 5.0 plaque, youll need to grind for it
put on all the stuff on the front of the motor, you need RTV somewhere on the crank, I forget(look up an underdrive pulley install video on american muscle)
put in the lifters and dogbones and crap. then the push rods and the the rockers, then the valve covers.
now comes the lower intake manifold, the torque pattern is crazy, yould have to look it up. put the right stuff in small spots round the EGR ports on the heads, and on the top parts of the coolant holes(the ones that dont do anything) and then lay in the new gaskets. put some right stuff into the rubber pieces that you got(if you didnt get them its fine). The rubber pieces are for the front and back of the deck.
reconnect the heater core. connect the egr coolant line, tighten it up(you dont wanna screw with it later)
do the thing with the thermostat, pellet goes in, nipple stays out.
a little bit of rtv around the egr passage on the lower intake to make the gasket stay.
youll need a vaccum Y for the back vaccum line on the upper, it will go the the fuel regulator and for smog pump.
get the upper in by getting the vaccum tee under the AC hose. reconnect the vaccum lines while the upper isnt bolted down.
ok, now bolt it down
put the throttlebody and ER back on, reconnect the IAC solenoid, the temp sensors, and the throttle/TV linkage
back goes the distributor and plug wires
back goes the intake hose, and the mass air meter
I think I got most of it
Tanus
New Member
its pretty easy, just buy a manual or rent one from the library, most important is to take your time and use common sense
95Vert383AOD
15 Year Member
All that intake removing sounds really fun REALLY 
Or you can use a quick cam change tool like this one here
Mustang 79-95 Quick Cam Change Tools at LRS - Same Day Shipping!
Remove valve covers and rockers....then insert these babies to hold your lifters up in place while you slide the cam out. It should cut the process that "keepinitril" outlined by 2/3 or more. The price of the kit isalmost what you would pay in new intake gaskets. Worth its weight in gold!!!!
Chris
Or you can use a quick cam change tool like this one here
Mustang 79-95 Quick Cam Change Tools at LRS - Same Day Shipping!
Remove valve covers and rockers....then insert these babies to hold your lifters up in place while you slide the cam out. It should cut the process that "keepinitril" outlined by 2/3 or more. The price of the kit isalmost what you would pay in new intake gaskets. Worth its weight in gold!!!!
Chris
cjrpony
Member
All that intake removing sounds really fun REALLY
Or you can use a quick cam change tool like this one here
Mustang 79-95 Quick Cam Change Tools at LRS - Same Day Shipping!
Remove valve covers and rockers....then insert these babies to hold your lifters up in place while you slide the cam out. It should cut the process that "keepinitril" outlined by 2/3 or more. The price of the kit isalmost what you would pay in new intake gaskets. Worth its weight in gold!!!!
Chris
Those cam tools are pretty slick but I believe he said he was changing the intake too, so he will need to remove it.
All in all, it really isn't a difficult job as Tanus said, other than maybe some corroded water pump bolts you may run into if the motor hasn't been apart in a long time. +1 go slow and as long as you can follow directions you will be fine. And be extra carefull on pulling out the cam and putting the new one in. I made the mistake years ago on my first cam swap of scraping the front cam bearing with the gear on the cam, so I then got to learn how to use a cam bearing tool
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