Cam is in.

Dbeck002

New Member
Apr 30, 2005
710
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South florida
Alright update. I lubed up the cam with assembly lube and carefully slid it in. I made sure not to forceully push it in, and used a long threaded rod for leverage on the cam. So far it is in and everything seems okay. Is there anything im missing? Just making sure, because im about to slide on the new timing chain. Wish me luck. :flag:



EDIT: i didnt put the dowel pin in the cam, can i do it while its in the block? The chart here says to use the short one for my year (1991). seems like it has to be tapped in with a mallet (press fit).
 
I cut myself on the stupid AC condesner! :(

LAME!

I just had to share that with you, anyway does anyone know if I can keep the cam in the engine when i tap the dowel pin in? Please guys im in a pinch and cant keep my engine all exposed like this. Help! :hail2:
 
89CopCoupe said:
I wouldn't .. you could damage the cam bearings if it is a snug fit .. you're supposed to dowel it before slidding it into the block.

Ps - Why is the A/C still on the car anyways :shrug: :D




I guess i could take it out but ill have to go through the whole slow process again.
I dont understand though, the bearings arent taking the load from the hammer tap, its completely perpendicular to the bearing surfaces... Im taping the dowel in down the length of the car so the bearings wouldnt be experiencing any forces. See what i mean?

EDIT: If i have to take it out to dowel it i will, thats not a problem. I just like to be the devils advocate sometimes.

Anyway, should i tap the dowel in with a mallet? Whats the correct procedure?

BTW: AC is because i live in south florida.
 
Right, but the cam is not supposed to ride directly on the bearing ...
That's why you coat it with assembly lube ... so it will have little friction/scuffing until the oil pump can take over when started.

Those bearing had a thermal barrier coating applied to them and they aren't made of titanium either ... a few accidental scratches or distortion could really destroy the hard work you've put into it thus far for your cam install.
I hate doing things twice more than buying things twice.

The likely hood you will do any damage is not great, but to err on the side of caution is my mentality.
I would rather be certain than to be pretty sure. I'm a.r. this way though. :bang:
 
89CopCoupe said:
Right, but the cam is not supposed to ride directly on the bearing ...
That's why you coat it with assembly lube ... so it will have little friction/scuffing until the oil pump can take over when started.

Those bearing had a thermal barrier coating applied to them and they aren't made of titanium either ... a few accidental scratches or distortion could really destroy the hard work you've put into it thus far for your cam install.
I hate doing things twice more than buying things twice.

The likely hood you will do any damage is not great, but to err on the side of caution is my mentality.
I would rather be certain than to be pretty sure. I'm a.r. this way though. :bang:

You got a point. Dont forget theres a chance i can scratch a bearing while removing/installing a cam so we gotta weigh both scenarios...

Anyway, if i remove the cam do i just use a mallet and lightly tap it in?
 
Dbeck002 said:
Anyway, should i tap the dowel in with a mallet? Whats the correct procedure?

Yes, a rubber mallet works better than a shoe :D

Just stand it on end with a thick piece of cardboard or such under the end and tap it in with a rubber mallet. Try to tap it in relatively straight as it will align itself as it burrows deeper into the hole.
 
89CopCoupe said:
Yes, a rubber mallet works better than a shoe :D

Just stand it on end with a thick piece of cardboard or such under the end and tap it in with a rubber mallet. Try to tap it in relatively straight as it will align itself as it burrows deeper into the hole.


Alright thanks man, by the way the timing cover has a metal ring with a lip that is exposed. Do i just pop this thing out with a screw driver or is it more complicated? (I have a new one with the gasket kit)
 
Dbeck002 said:
... by the way the timing cover has a metal ring with a lip that is exposed. Do i just pop this thing out with a screw driver or is it more complicated? (I have a new one with the gasket kit)

Are you talking about the front seal that rides on the snout of the crankshaft to keep the oil from leaking out past the crankshaft snout where it pokes through the cover?

If so, spray a WD-40 type penetrating lubricant around the edge of the seal where its pressed into the cover ...
Then get a large enough socket or something similar to pound it out from the opposite side.
If you can't do it that way, tap a flat blade screwdriver around the edge and bend the seal gently in a few places and repeatedly as needed, while trying to minimize scratching up the aluminum timing cover ..
You want to ruin the seal as much as possible while avoiding damage to the cover ... although a little scratching won't hurt anything, but try to avoid it.

To install the new seal I always use a small piece of 2x4 wood to place on the seal and then tap on the wood with a rubber mallet to press the new seal in as straight and aligned as I can ... then I coat the lip of the seal that rides on the crankshaft with a soft grease or oil before reinstalling the cover.

For all that typing I hope that's what you are talking about.

EDIT: Sometimes a shop rag placed on the tip of the screwdriver can cut down on scratching.
 
Yeah placing that seal into the timing cover was a bitch by far one of the worst parts of the build. Takes a lot of time and patience.

Anyways you want to take that cam out to put the dowel in, you can not only scuff it but also blow out the freeze plug in the back of the block by tapping it while it is in there. Just do it it is worth the extra time plus its not like putting a cam in and out is hard. Only takes like a minute or two at the most.
 
how long did it take you to get the cam in there? it takes maybe a minute if you are being super careful. but as far as the crank seal goes...i couldnt get mine in to save my life. no matter what i did i just ended up ruining the seal. i ended up putting the seal in the freezer for about two hours and putting the timing cover in the over for about half an hour at 200 degrees or whatever the lowest setting is on you oven. the seal almost dropped right in (i tapped it maybe 4 times with a rubber mallet and it was in). good luck man
 
i used a metal hammer to tap in my dowel pin...no problems, just dont miss. i set it on top of the cardboard box it came in. As for the new seal, the easiest way i foun was to set the seal in and turn it over and bang on the cover. I also put some assembly lube on the seal. Lastly, make sure you scraped out the crap from the old seal.
 
You should've seen what I did with the god damn dowel pin for my cam. I put the longer one in thinking it's the right one....I put it in (tightest fit known to man by the way).....and then I figure out it's too long! Tried to get it out....no ****ing way. haha, I ended up having to cut it down and file the end of it so it would fit :doh:
 
I just used a small/thin flat head to break the seal and also taped it out from the back with a mallet....to get the new one in I also used a piece of wood and a hammer to get it on straight
 
maverick0716 said:
You should've seen what I did with the god damn dowel pin for my cam. I put the longer one in thinking it's the right one....I put it in (tightest fit known to man by the way).....and then I figure out it's too long! Tried to get it out....no ****ing way. haha, I ended up having to cut it down and file the end of it so it would fit :doh:

Thats what I did, the dowel was too long so I couldn't put the eccentric for the fuel pump on there so I took the cam out and hit the dowel with a grinder at 2:00AM.