can a car run if the dist is 180 degrees off?
- Thread starter urban96
- Start date
the problem im having now is once and a while the car will run kinda ruff, like its missing
when i set the timing before i didnt use where A is labled. i used where the little notch is
but today i tried setting it to where A is and it wont let me turn the dist that much, it just wants to stall out
ive tried moving it over a tooth on the dist but no change
when i set the timing before i didnt use where A is labled. i used where the little notch is
but today i tried setting it to where A is and it wont let me turn the dist that much, it just wants to stall out
ive tried moving it over a tooth on the dist but no change
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4000 Pounds of Iron
Founding Member
I think if you were out 180 it would run badly enough that you'd know for certain. Pull the distributor and reset it to be sure.
Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10* or 14* or something else if You have NO2 or other power adder.
Remove the SPOUT connector (do a search if you want a picture of the SPOUT connector) It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness.
Warning: There are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.
Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug.
Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
Remove the SPOUT connector (do a search if you want a picture of the SPOUT connector) It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness.
Warning: There are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.
Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug.
Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
If you were 180, it would run consistantly like poo. It would idle real rough and not want to rev up much at all.
I'm not sure which notch you used before, but you're probably talkin about 10* or so of being off - certainly enough to make the car run like like snot.
If once you reset the timing properly, it still runs poorly, check the balancer to make sure it didnt slip.
Good luck.
I'm not sure which notch you used before, but you're probably talkin about 10* or so of being off - certainly enough to make the car run like like snot.
If once you reset the timing properly, it still runs poorly, check the balancer to make sure it didnt slip.
Good luck.
