Can I Have Some Help Please. 8.8 Rearend Swap/turbo Coupe

dropped how? was in an operational position and fell while driving?

h

satman48 said:

The stance was high, the wheels werent in the fender wells, then when i got on it,it dropped so the wheels were in the fender well. It then was rubbing on my tires. I heard that this rearend was an 1" and a half longer. How do i fix the lenghth or can i not fix it?

Click to expand...

hopefully someone that has done this will chime in. What size tire/rim combo are you running? Is it just rubbing on the outside of the tire at the lip of the fender well?

i believe some have had to roll the fenders to allow for the wider rear end. as i have never done this nor have i swapped out the turbo coupe rear end i am the wrong guy to advise you from here on out. jrichker has done this, see if he can shed some light. he is a working man so give him some time to see the thread and shed some light on the subject.

The axles are 3/4" longer per side, and may rub with some wheel and tire combinations. The '93 Cobra used the same axle assembly, and same length axles. Wheels and tire designed to fit the '93 Cobra are your best bet to avoid rubbing interference between tire and car body. The Cobra wheels had a somewhat odd offset or backspace for the wheels. The 94-94 Mustang axles are the same length and are 5 lug. Unfortunately, they will have the same clearance issues.

How to do the installation the right way:
You will need a several sets of fittings, I recommend that you get them from Matt90GT's website, http://home.comcast.net/~mjbobbitt/mustang/page5.html. Read Matt's instructions thoroughly, everything you need to know about the brakes is all there. You need to be patient and follow all the internal links, and there are many of them. You will need 2 fittings in the rear to adapt your old brake tubing to the TC disk brakes. The fittings go between the steel tube and the caliper brake hose. You will need another set of fittings to make a 2 port to 3 port adapter. To make life simpler, just buy the kits from Matt. You could piece them together, but it's not worth the time unless you work at an auto parts store with all the fittings ever made.

You will need to drill the quad shock mounting holes 2” below the holes drilled for the Turbo Coupe mounting points. The bolts are metric, so don’t loose them or the nuts. A 15/32” drill should be about the right size unless you have access to metric sized drill bits. Going without quad shocks is not an option.

Important!!
When you install the axle assembly you will need to leave the bolts for the control arms only finger tight. Once the axle and all the control arms are in place, put jackstands under the rear axle and under the front A arms. Level the car as best you can while it is on the jackstands. Then and only then tighten down the control arm nuts and bolts to the factory specs. This assures that there is no preload to position the axle up or down, it is preloaded to normal driving height.

You will need a proportioning valve, Summit has one for $40 + shipping.
You will need a kit (FMS makes the part) to gut the stock proportioning valve, Summit also has that, about $10.


You will need a new master cylinder, see Matt's site and make you choice. I used a 94-95 Mustang master cylinder. Note that rebuilt 94-95 Mustang master cylinders do not come with a reservoir. That means a trip to the junkyard and some more money spent.

Your brake pedal may be very hard and almost impossible to lock up the brakes. I had to replace the front calipers with 73 mm calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 7 to get the braking performance up to par.

Bleeding the brakes will require 2 people and some coordinated effort. I don’t recommend using you wife or girlfriend to pump the pedal – they get offended when you yell at them. I used a homemade power brake bleeder constructed from a garden sprayer and some fittings from Home Depot. It cost about $25 and was worth every penny. See http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=6143048 for details and pictures.

See http://www.mustangcentral.net/tech/brake.html for help with the emergency brake. The red words link to some very useful photos on how to modify the handle. The stock setup tends to lock up and not release properly.
All in all I have been very pleased with the results.

Turbo Coupe axle swap parts list:
87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe Rear axle
94-95 Mustang Master Cylinder with reservoir
Brake line Adapter fittings http://home.comcast.net/~mjbobbitt/mustang/page5.html.
3 line to 2 line brake fitting kit http://home.comcast.net/~mjbobbitt/mustang/page5.html..
Proportioning valve, Wildwood 260-8419 Summit or Jegs
Kit to gut the stock proportioning valve Ford Racing M-2450-A Summit or Jegs
Reuse stock brake booster – no changes needed with the parts in this list
73 mm front calipers from a 91 Lincoln Mark 7 (two calipers) local auto parts store
Emergency brake cable parts: Summit or Jegs or Late Model Restoration
79-92 Mustangs use: M-2809-A* Parking Brake Cable (need 2)
93 Mustangs: use 93 Cobra Ebrake cables.
All years use: M-2810-A* Parking Brake Cable (short cable that attaches to the parking brake handle)

I recommend that you use reman calipers and use the calipers from the Turbo Coupe axle for cores to return. The parking brake mechanism and the caliper slides tend to lockup and freeze

Identifying a Turbo Coupe rear axle:
1.) Measure the rotors - a TC disk brake uses 10 5/16" vented rotors.
2.) Measure the length of the quad shock mount arm and compare it to the mount on your existing stock axle. The TC quad shock mount arm is about 8" long if I remember correctly.
3.) Measure the distance between the axle flanges and compare it to stock. The TC rear axle assembly is 3/4" wider per side, or 1 1/2" wider for both sides.

Fixing the added axle length problem:
If the extra width is a problem for your wheel and tire combination, North Racecars makes some rather expensive brackets ($160 +) which allow you to use the stock axles. See http://northracecars.com/Brakes.html


Five lug Turbo Coupe conversion:
Use the 94-98 axles Mustang axles. Use 1990 Mazda MPV 3.0 V6 front rotors (10", 5 lug x 4.5" pattern, 2 7/16" offset ). While you are at the auto parts store, set a TC rear rotor side by side with the Mazda rotor and they are the same except for the offset.

The next step fixes the offset problem:
Use a Maximum MotorSports 1/8 spacer (MMWS6, Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader! ) between the inside of the rotor and the axle flange. The spacers may need to have the OD machined to fit properly. The stock rotor offset is 2 5/16" and the Mazda rotors are 2 7/16" offset. The 1/8" spacer puts the rotor back dead center alignment with the calipers.

The Mazda rotors are under $30 each, and I have seen them for $20 each. The MM spacers are two for $30 + $9 shipping. So the entire package costs $99. That saves $41, which most of us could find a very good use for.

This is the exact reason i tell everyone to do fox width axles no matter what.

If rolling the fenders doesn't get you enough, and you don't want to buy new wheels, i'd guess that you could do v6/gt 94/95 brakes with northracecar brackets and fox 4 lug axles.

hi i have a question about this i have a 84 mustang with a turbo coupe rearend and it sits high loks like i have a lift kit is this normal ?

ha iwin said:

hi i have a question about this i have a 84 mustang with a turbo coupe rearend and it sits high loks like i have a lift kit is this normal ?

Click to expand...

The one I had didn't seem to sit any different from stock. I used the stock 5.0 Mustang springs and hardware.

this is what it looks like its super high cant figure out why and driving me crazy also front is high also

ha iwin said:

this is what it looks like its super high cant figure out why and driving me crazy also front is high also

Click to expand...

i need to know wats wrong can any one help please

mikestang63 said:

Click to expand...

LMAO!

ha iwin said:

i need to know wats wrong can any one help please

Click to expand...

Is there an engine in the car?

Take some pictures of the rear suspension. You should be able to just walk under the car and snap a few shots! LoL

I gotta ask. is this the look you were going for?

Mustang5L5 said:

The rear end is no different physically than a standard 8.8 mustang rear. It leads me to ask if the control arms, or springs are installed correctly. Obviously something is not right as that is insane ride hoehgt.


Did you crank the control arm bolts with the rear end dropped? You actually need to install the bolts loose...and then torque them with car at ride height and weight supported on suspension.

Click to expand...

Mike, i'm thinking his post is a joke. Couple days old, no follow up, name of "ha i win".
Not sure if the pic is a photoshop, but look at the front, if that car was lower the wheel would hit the fender towards the door. Something is wrong with the wheel base.

Mustang5L5 said:

I dunno. Looks real to me. I see a gap out back where the gas tank would be, so i'm assuming this car has nothing in it in terms of weight. Having stripped a few stangs myself, i know they tend to get pretty high up front with no weight in them. If he torqued the arms with the rear hanging down, and doesn't have a gas tank, or interior or taillights and other stuff in the car, i could see it sitting that high

Click to expand...

I've seen more than my share of stripped cars, stripping weight from the back changes almost nothing. I've also torqued the rear control arms in the wrong position, just can't see how it would sit that high by accident.

I'm not sold on the fact that the pic is a fake, but i think the post is a hoax. Did he really need to tell us "the front is high also"? Anyone with no engine knows that happen. If you don't know, you probably shouldn't be working on the car.