Can I keep the cam?

My patience is more limited toward those who insist that it's useless to try different ways to upgrade and that "all components MUST be matched" for them to work. Nothing could be further from the truth. I've got limited funds when it comes to this stuff. I do things as I can afford them, and shop around for weeks sometimes before parting with my money. I've learned a thing or two that way also. Sure you'll get the maximum benefit in doing it all at once sometimes, but when you don't have money to burn, things have a way of not ever getting done too.
 
My patience is more limited toward those who insist that it's useless to try different ways to upgrade and that "all components MUST be matched" for them to work. Nothing could be further from the truth. I've got limited funds when it comes to this stuff. I do things as I can afford them, and shop around for weeks sometimes before parting with my money. I've learned a thing or two that way also. Sure you'll get the maximum benefit in doing it all at once sometimes, but when you don't have money to burn, things have a way of not ever getting done too.

Whoa Big D! Nothing could be further from the truth??:shrug: I agree there's a lot of room to play with making upgrades piecemeal, and I'm sure he'll be happy going head first. On the other hand, a 268H cam won't pull the pressed in studs out, and he wouldn't need to change it out later using AFR 165 heads. They're a good match. Most of us have to do our upgrades as our budgets allow, and either one will make a noticeable improvement. His question was can I leave the cam in? My answer is "NO" assuming it's the stock cam. Just plan to replace the cam and intake somewhere down the road. The carb is probably fine for this combo.
 
I'm surprised there hasn't been any comparisons about the Edelbrock H/C/I I linked. For less than the budgeted amount for heads (2K) you get the whole deal.

1750.00 plus shipping. The only thing that would need done after the swap would be to measure and get the right push rods, and a set of roller rockers. The heads should be ready for RR's out of the box.
 
I'm surprised there hasn't been any comparisons about the Edelbrock H/C/I I linked. For less than the budgeted amount for heads (2K) you get the whole deal.

1750.00 plus shipping. The only thing that would need done after the swap would be to measure and get the right push rods, and a set of roller rockers. The heads should be ready for RR's out of the box.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CSP-S4003&autoview=sku
 
Thanks, Woodsnake. If one were to use the package, would the cam specs need to be considered or can it be assumed that it is matched to the other components? Neither Jegs nor Summit idenifies the specific cam properties in the kit. At this point, I'm pursuing heads only, but want to learn none the less....
 
Whoa Big D! Nothing could be further from the truth??:shrug: I agree there's a lot of room to play with making upgrades piecemeal, and I'm sure he'll be happy going head first. On the other hand, a 268H cam won't pull the pressed in studs out, and he wouldn't need to change it out later using AFR 165 heads. They're a good match. Most of us have to do our upgrades as our budgets allow, and either one will make a noticeable improvement. His question was can I leave the cam in? My answer is "NO" assuming it's the stock cam. Just plan to replace the cam and intake somewhere down the road. The carb is probably fine for this combo.

:rolleyes: Now, just where was it I said a Comp 268H cam wouldn't work with AFR165's ? :nono: And where did I say a Comp 268H would pull the rocker studs out? And tell us why he can't use the stock cam with AFR165 heads ? Cause It won't run at all? Please enlighten us :rlaugh:
 
Thanks, Woodsnake. If one were to use the package, would the cam specs need to be considered or can it be assumed that it is matched to the other components? Neither Jegs nor Summit idenifies the specific cam properties in the kit. At this point, I'm pursuing heads only, but want to learn none the less....
That kit will come with one of two cam grinds (just off the wall here, I haven't looked at it) One cam is the Performer cam, this one's basically an "RV" style grind. The other cam Edelbrock sells is the RPM cam, which is fine with their heads, but not with the stock valvetrain.It's Likely too much cam for the stock compression ratio too, even considering that may take a hit in the head swap.
If you go this route, you can figure to spend another $200-300 for rockers, $50 for pushrods, $100 for gaskets and another $100 for the little things that'll popup doing the swap.
 
I think the incidentals are the same for just the head swap, aren't they? If you spend 2K on heads, you will still need new rockers, I'm pretty sure the AFR's come with threaded in studs. You're still going to need new gaskets, and the odd misc. stuff that comes up.
For comparison purposes, with the Edelbrock kit, you will have to add the cost of hardened pushrods that are the correct measured length. So add 30 bucks for an adjustable pushrod checking tool, shipped.
The point I'm getting at, is for the money, instead of heads now, cam later, swap it all. The only real "extra" expense is for the PR's.
I have nothing against a head swap, but the labor for plan "A" vs H/C/I from Edelbrock "B" seems redundant. For just a few dollars more (rockers and PR)
You're finished.

I'll stop now.....