Can I use rubber hose for the egr tube?

Joe 5.0

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Jun 12, 2006

#1

• Jun 12, 2006

• #1

I know its probably a retarded question, but it'd be alot easier to do since I dont have a tube bender or flaring kit. My stock one now doesnt fit because I have lt's, its about 1" too short. Otherwise I'm gonna have to to it to a shop to fab a metal one up.

 

SeventyMach1

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Mar 30, 2005

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#2

• Jun 12, 2006

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I have used a sturdy heater hose for the EGR in the past. I'd think it would be okay on our cars, too ....

 

bill302

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Jun 12, 2006

#3

• Jun 12, 2006

• #3

no it will melt....

 

Joe 5.0

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How about for just VERY short term, like a 5-10 mile drive? I just dont want un-metered oxygenated air going back into the intake causing a lean condition. I started it today without the hpipe on and it started/idled fine with the egr/air pump open.

 

SeventyMach1

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bill302 said:

no it will melt....

Click to expand...

Well, it didn't on a V6 Ranger I had a long time ago .... but i wasn't sure on our cars. The EGR tube on our cars does get really hot (I know that), but it doesn't get as hot as the headers.


Has anyone tried it?



BTW, since you said it was 1" too short, and you want a temp. fix, I'd just attach the EGR tube to the header side ... then put heater hose between that & the EGR.

 

1TallMF

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Apr 17, 2006

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#6

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Muffler shops have a special type of high heat hose that they use to connect the smog pump tube to the cats, but that doesn't get nearly as hot as headers do. I don't think there's any rubber hose out there that will withstand those temperatures for any reasonable length of time. Copper tubing is easy enough to bend and work with, have you thought about making one out of copper? You can rent tubing benders and flaring tools at parts stores for a refundable deposit usually. Or, to simplify things a bit, you could take the stock one, cut one end off and flare up a 1" longer piece of new tubing, then attach it to the old piece using a compression union. I dunno, I'm just throwing some ideas out my @$$.

 

Joe 5.0

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#7

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Thats not a bad idea, i hadnt thought of that.

Is it even worth the effort tho? Will it cause anything majorly bad in a 15 minute drive with it open completely?

 

SeventyMach1

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I'm guessing this 15 minute drive is to get it fixed?

 

1TallMF

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#9

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Or just duct tape the bastard on there

 

SeventyMach1

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#10

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Thinking again ....


Why won't the EGR tube reach? What headers are they?

The reason I ask is because with my BBK's ... I initially thought the tube was too short to reach. Come to find out, the thread ring was jammed on the tube about an inch higher (because the tube has bends in it). So after wiggling it around a bit, I finally got it to reach. Also, be sure you're not trying to mount it upside down.

 

Joe 5.0

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#11

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I tried every way imaginable to get it to reach, then kinked it trying to bend it into place, so its pretty much trashed.

And yeah the 15 min drive it to the shop that will be fixing the egr tube, installing a clutch, and maybe doing a couple other small things.

 

94-302-vert

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Jun 13, 2006

#12

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15 minute you should be fine. if you are that worried about it unplug the EGR so it doesn't open.

 

Zero Signal

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Jun 13, 2006

#13

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I tried the high-temp silicone exhuast hose and found it was a waste of $30. In fact, it melted all over the place and left crusted silicone all over the header. I think it lasted maybe 5-10 minutes. If you just need to make a quick trip, just run with the bung open. It will sound pretty nasty but so what for a short trip.

What WILL work is, if your tube is 1-2" too short, to just run a 3/4" or 1" heater hose from the flare to the EGR threads and clamp it on both sides. The gas is cooled as it passes through the metal tube and it won't hurt the hose at all. I ran mine that way for a long time and the hose is just fine.

The other fix, being the best one is to install the stock tube and put a 5/8" brass cap (HomeDepot/Lowes) on it and unplug the EGR.

 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"

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#14

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heres what u can do...

take off the nut thats on the header side, stick a penny or two under it and re-install. this will block off the header leak

then you could plug the upper part with something and not worry about it melting almost instantly like it would if it was connected to the header

 

Joe 5.0

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#15

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thanks for the ideas guys, i def appreciate it. i think i'm gonna run a short hose from the egr to the tube for the quick ride. :SNSign:

 

GRGT1994

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#16

• Jun 13, 2006

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I ran a high temp hose to connect up, but I didn't connect it right at the header bung. I cut down the stock pipe so there was about 2 inches, both ends. Then I clamped the hose to connect between each end. And it still blew out. I was using the ultra expensive high temp hose too. So that won't work for a permenant fix. BTW, it did work for a few days (until I hit WOT, then it blew instantly).

I like the idea of connecting a hose to the end of the stock EGR pipe. Or you could cut down the stock EGR pipe, but leave most of it intact away from the headers, giving you like 6 to 8 inches from those burning hot headers.

But to be honest, for the drive to the shop, you will probably be fine to leave it all open. Just don't go over 1/4 throttle. If you're really worried, get some caps from Home Depot/Lowe's. I think it's the 5/8" cap in the plumbing section (that's what I'm running now. Or just cut out a piece of copper sheet and install between the EGR and intake (keeping unmetered air out).

BTW, I ordered a stock replacement piece, and it fits like a glove now that I got those emissions lines out of the way.

 

Joe 5.0

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#17

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you get it from the dealership? last time i went in they didnt stock much for our 94/95's.

 

mo_dingo

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Jun 13, 2006

#18

• Jun 13, 2006

• #18

Take the tube off of the headers, where it is straight, cut it off nice and straight. Weld an appropriate extension on it and try it out.

Or, just get a cap for the bung on the headers. Thread is M22 1.25 thread pitch.
Scott