Can the doors stay on when doing the hinge reapair?

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gw64cpe

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Mar 3, 2004

#1

• Mar 3, 2004

• #1

I just ordered the hinge repair kits for my 64.5 coupe. Does anyone know if I can leave the doors on, support them from below, and do one hinge at a time? It looks tight in there, but I'm not sure how much work is involved in installing the kit. If anyone has done this repair, I sure could use some pointers. Thanks.

 

oboebrian

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In the Gutter Gaurding the Closet Door against She

Mar 3, 2004

#2

• Mar 3, 2004

• #2

You will need to remove both doors and re-align them after rebuilding the hinges. If you leave the doors on not only is it a huge PIA job but it will 'tweak' alignment.

Here's a link to my 72 hinge rebuilt (very similar procedures although the hinges are slightly different):

http://www.desertmustangs.com/1972coupe/Hinge-Rebuild/72-Door-Hinge-Rebuild.htm

 

66 BLAKE 96

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Mar 3, 2004

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• Mar 3, 2004

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Perfect timing on this thread!

I'm just about to tackle the hinges as a part of the pre-paint process.

I should've known to check DesertMustangs.com first.

 

oboebrian

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In the Gutter Gaurding the Closet Door against She

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#4

• Mar 3, 2004

• #4

66 BLAKE 96 said:

Perfect timing on this thread!

I'm just about to tackle the hinges as a part of the pre-paint process.

I should've known to check DesertMustangs.com first.

Click to expand...

I have a couple other links to bookmarked at home. I do know if you do a search on either

www.mustangandfords.com

or www.mustangmonthly.com

or hinges you'll find a couple pictorial write-ups for 65-67 stangs, but you have to do a search because they are not in their 'tech articles' section

But i can't access the search function on teh site here at work *shrug* otherwise i'd post the direct link.

 

66 BLAKE 96

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Mar 18, 2004

#5

• Mar 18, 2004

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Sorry to bring back an old thread, but what force of nature does it take to get the old pins out?

I've tried everything short of an industrial press (BFH, drill press), and those things just are not gonna budge. Am I missing something obvious?

 

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GaPonyFarm

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Columbus, GA

Mar 18, 2004

#6

• Mar 18, 2004

• #6

You need to either drill out the top, or grind it off. The you should be able to punch it out. I know its a pain... New hinges only go for about $30... should all else fail.

 

pabear89

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High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H

Mar 18, 2004

#7

• Mar 18, 2004

• #7

The hinge's can be replaced with the door on,
But the fenders must be off.
Trying to short cut by doing one hinge with the weight of the door on the other and some sort of holder proping the door.
Can be done, But adjusting could take time to get it correct.

PB

 

oboebrian

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In the Gutter Gaurding the Closet Door against She

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#8

• Mar 18, 2004

• #8

66 BLAKE 96 said:

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but what force of nature does it take to get the old pins out?

I've tried everything short of an industrial press (BFH, drill press), and those things just are not gonna budge. Am I missing something obvious?

Click to expand...

Blake you need to drill out the thin metal 'hat'

Then punch out the pin using a correctly sized punch:

I'm pretty sure it's the same for the 65-66 hinges. I'll look on my 65 coupe in the morn and report back.

 

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66candy

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Mar 19, 2004

#9

• Mar 19, 2004

• #9

I replaced the pins with the door and the fenders on the car. Did one hinge at a time and used wooden blocks and a jack to support the door. It was a suprisingly simple job and took only 2 hours for both hinges! The alignment that had to be done was minimum.

Good luck

Erwin

 

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gw64cpe

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Mar 19, 2004

#10

• Mar 19, 2004

• #10

Mine were tough to do

Mine weren't as easy as others here. I left the fenders on, but did take off the doors. The pins were frozen in pretty good, had to do a lot of banging in a vice on the bench. Took a lot of grinding and cutting too. It was over 5 hours to do all 4. They work great now though. Another hard part was realigning the doors, as I had to put them on, test, take off, adjust hinge, put on, test, repeat etc. Moral of story: don't try to save $$ by not replacing hinges before painting/assembling car!

 

66 BLAKE 96

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• Mar 19, 2004

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Brian; I followed the directions up to that point to the letter in your how-to. The hats are drilled, but I haven't been able to budge the pins no matter what I throw at 'em.

Its getting really old having the only classic Mustang with hinges that isn't an "easy couple-hour job". Forget the frickin time frame, it looks as though I can't do these things with 20 hours of bangin' on them. At +/- $25 per hinge, buying new hinges isn't really an option.

 

66 BLAKE 96

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Mar 20, 2004

#12

• Mar 20, 2004

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Any weekend people got some wisdom for me?

 

pabear89

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Mar 20, 2004

#13

• Mar 20, 2004

• #13

66 BLAKE 96 said:

Any weekend people got some wisdom for me?

Click to expand...

try cutting the pin in half?

did you check the lower part of the pin to make sure there is no
press mark in it, it will not allow pin to drop.

PB

 

oboebrian

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In the Gutter Gaurding the Closet Door against She

Mar 21, 2004

#14

• Mar 21, 2004

• #14

blake, did you try a bigger BFH? Are you using a punch to drive the pin out? Try drilling the hatt off a lil more... I totally forgot to get those picts and look at my 65 hinges. I'll try and do that tomarrow.

 

86T-Top

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Mar 21, 2004

#15

• Mar 21, 2004

• #15

When I did the hinges in my 68 I took them of the car to make it easier. I grinded the top part off completly so the pin was flush with the top of the hinge, while being careful to not grind the hinge. Then I used a really BFH and a punch to drive the pin out. Also make sure that no one weled the pin on the bottom side of the hinge to the hinge. You could try to put some penatrating fluid inbetween the pin in the hinge and let it sit over night.

Mario