Can you cap off the water pump hose?

[mob]

Hey guys, I want to elminate the heater tube on the lower intake, I am going to get a reducer bushing to put the sensor there, but can I just cap off the longer heater hose that goes to the water pump with a rubber cap and a clamp? I think I've seen it done before, just making sure its safe, and wont blow off while driving.

 

[BK_CAULEY]

yes /thread

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Hey guys, I want to elminate the heater tube on the lower intake, I am going to get a reducer bushing to put the sensor there, but can I just cap off the longer heater hose that goes to the water pump with a rubber cap and a clamp? I think I've seen it done before, just making sure its safe, and wont blow off while driving.

Not a good idea. You'll need a hose from the intake manifold's ECT port to the water pump to prevent overheating. I just removed my heater hard lines a couple of weeks ago and used this:

Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing

 

[mob]

But isnt there water running through the tstat housing into the intake, and the small bypass hose from the water pump to the intake? i really dont want to spend 20 bucks on that little piece.

 

[Cobra912]

that's a slick idea, worth the 30 bucks I think

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

But isnt there water running through the tstat housing into the intake, and the small bypass hose from the water pump to the intake? i really dont want to spend 20 bucks on that little piece.

Wait a minute. Are you telling me you're prepared to spend 100's of $ to do all your other mods but you're not prepared to spend $29 on the ECT elbow kit? I don't get it. Sorry to sound blunt about this but I have a saying "If you economize on the cheese you'll get eaten by the mice".

 

[mob]

That is not a mod. 100 bucks to make me go faster? Sure. 30 bucks on a little metal elbow? No thanks. I'll make my own for 3 bucks before I order that. My question was if it is safe to cap off the water pump. Not how should I spend my money. I am looking for different opinions on the water pump issue, and a REASON why it will overheat if there is water going through the tstat and the bypass hose.

 

[SMOKEDYA]

loop the heater hoses at the water pump. cap off the heater hose opening on the intake. take off the hard lines on the intake and get a plug for that spot. done. peace


john

 

[ID89GT]

loop the heater hoses at the water pump. cap off the heater hose opening on the intake. take off the hard lines on the intake and get a plug for that spot. done. peace


john

Thats what my car was like when it had the bad heater core. The lines that attach to the heater core were looped together. Also had caps on the egr line spots with hose clamps and didn't have any problems at all.

 

[mob]

He was talking about the actual ports that come out of the water pump. I have my heater core bypassed now, I want to do away with the whole black metal tubing.

 

[ID89GT]

Oh well then ya you will probably need something like that elbow he posted up above, thats the only thing I can see working

 

[Kumm3]

Leave the small hose from the Tstat to Water pump in place, and put the cap for the other side of the water pump hose that feeds the hard line. Just make sure you get the right size, 5/8" IIRC.

Then you will have to buy a pipe reducer bushing to reinstall the Temp sensor in the intake where the hard lin used to be. Lowes should carry this, if not, go to any perfomance shop and they shuold be able to locate the reducer for you.

I have been running this setup on my stroker for a year, and the car never even came close to overheating, 190* all day long.

 

[SMOKEDYA]

Leave the small hose from the Tstat to Water pump in place, and put the cap for the other side of the water pump hose that feeds the hard line. Just make sure you get the right size, 5/8" IIRC.

Then you will have to buy a pipe reducer bushing to reinstall the Temp sensor in the intake where the hard lin used to be. Lowes should carry this, if not, go to any perfomance shop and they shuold be able to locate the reducer for you.

I have been running this setup on my stroker for a year, and the car never even came close to overheating, 190* all day long.

or do this that would work also. peace



john

 

[The Shape]

This something I am wanting to get around to dong as well. My heater core is bypassed and I have no desire to replace it since I don't drive the car in sub 60 degree temps anyway. I just dread wrestling the heater core piping out. Do you have to remove the upper intake to get it off?

 

[mob]

Thanks Kumm, thats exactly what I was looking to do. Lowe's and home depot dont have that reducer bushing. The smallest they have is 1/2" to 3/4", and its bulking for electrical pipes. I found it at my work at Advance Auto Parts. ACE also has a HUGE selection, I asked him if he had reducer bushings at ACE and he looked at me weird and said "I have bushings" I was like ok, but it was a whole isle of bushings in different sizes.

 

[Darkwriter77]

I've done this on both of my Foxes. On teh Notch, the heater pipe was rotting apart and the heater core was shot; on the Black Pearl, again the heater core was slobbering, and the T-connection off the intake was rotting apart, similarly.

In both cases, I removed the heater T-connection/heater pipe and used a brass reducer bushing from Autozone to poke the ECT sensor into that hole (with Teflon tape on the threads, of course), and then I just capped off the leftover outlet coming from the water pump. On teh Notch, I used a HELP! section "heater plug" with a hose clamp on it; on the Black Pearl, I just took a small length of 1/2" hose, poked a 1/2" bolt in there (actually, I used an old 1/2" rachet extension, but a bolt would work just the same), and double-clamped that before sticking the "plug" onto the outlet of the water pump and clamping it down. Never had any leaks or overheating issues from either vehicle since I did it.

 

[The Shape]

What size is the reducer?

 

[Darkwriter77]

What size is the reducer?

Not sure right off hand. I just brought in my ECT sensor along with the heater pipe and then compared 'em to a few of them until I found one that fit. I think I have the Autozone part number somewhere if I dig around in my closet for the old T-connector - even though it's rotted, I kept it just in case I decided to piece together a T-fitting on my own if/when I ever change the heater core out and reconnect everything.

EDIT: I think this is the one...

Part #490-094.1
SKU - 895979
1/4" NPT Male / 1/2" NPT Female (those measurements sound too small, but that's what it said on the Dorman drawer when I wrote it down)

 

[mob]

It should be a 3/8" to 1/2" I think the 1/2" sounds too small to go into the intake, but thats what I've heard from everyone so thats what I got and am going to use. I just have to find a good afternoon when I dont have any other projects lined up to do this. I already have everything I need.

 

[Kumm3]

i thought it was a 3/4" to 1/2" reducer, i could be wrong though, its been about 2 years since i last even looked at it.