Not a good idea. You'll need a hose from the intake manifold's ECT port to the water pump to prevent overheating. I just removed my heater hard lines a couple of weeks ago and used this:
Breeze Automotive Factory Five Racing
Thats what my car was like when it had the bad heater core. The lines that attach to the heater core were looped together. Also had caps on the egr line spots with hose clamps and didn't have any problems at all.
Leave the small hose from the Tstat to Water pump in place, and put the cap for the other side of the water pump hose that feeds the hard line. Just make sure you get the right size, 5/8" IIRC.
Then you will have to buy a pipe reducer bushing to reinstall the Temp sensor in the intake where the hard lin used to be. Lowes should carry this, if not, go to any perfomance shop and they shuold be able to locate the reducer for you.
I have been running this setup on my stroker for a year, and the car never even came close to overheating, 190* all day long.
Then you will have to buy a pipe reducer bushing to reinstall the Temp sensor in the intake where the hard lin used to be. Lowes should carry this, if not, go to any perfomance shop and they shuold be able to locate the reducer for you.
I have been running this setup on my stroker for a year, and the car never even came close to overheating, 190* all day long.
I've done this on both of my Foxes. On teh Notch, the heater pipe was rotting apart and the heater core was shot; on the Black Pearl, again the heater core was slobbering, and the T-connection off the intake was rotting apart, similarly.
In both cases, I removed the heater T-connection/heater pipe and used a brass reducer bushing from Autozone to poke the ECT sensor into that hole (with Teflon tape on the threads, of course), and then I just capped off the leftover outlet coming from the water pump. On teh Notch, I used a HELP! section "heater plug" with a hose clamp on it; on the Black Pearl, I just took a small length of 1/2" hose, poked a 1/2" bolt in there (actually, I used an old 1/2" rachet extension, but a bolt would work just the same), and double-clamped that before sticking the "plug" onto the outlet of the water pump and clamping it down. Never had any leaks or overheating issues from either vehicle since I did it.
In both cases, I removed the heater T-connection/heater pipe and used a brass reducer bushing from Autozone to poke the ECT sensor into that hole (with Teflon tape on the threads, of course), and then I just capped off the leftover outlet coming from the water pump. On teh Notch, I used a HELP! section "heater plug" with a hose clamp on it; on the Black Pearl, I just took a small length of 1/2" hose, poked a 1/2" bolt in there (actually, I used an old 1/2" rachet extension, but a bolt would work just the same), and double-clamped that before sticking the "plug" onto the outlet of the water pump and clamping it down. Never had any leaks or overheating issues from either vehicle since I did it.
Not sure right off hand. I just brought in my ECT sensor along with the heater pipe and then compared 'em to a few of them until I found one that fit. I think I have the Autozone part number somewhere if I dig around in my closet for the old T-connector - even though it's rotted, I kept it just in case I decided to piece together a T-fitting on my own if/when I ever change the heater core out and reconnect everything.
EDIT: I think this is the one...
Part #490-094.1
SKU - 895979
1/4" NPT Male / 1/2" NPT Female (those measurements sound too small, but that's what it said on the Dorman drawer when I wrote it down)