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Can't get clutch to engage.

  • Thread starter Thread starter 69Rcode_Mach1
  • Start date Start date May 24, 2005
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69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
May 24, 2005
#1
  • May 24, 2005
  • #1
I have the JMC hydraulic clutch kit and I can't seem to figure out how to get the system to work properly. I have tried bleeding it according to their instructions but when my brother pushes on my clutch pedal the damn thing won't even move at all it won't even twitch. It is really pissing me off. Anybody want to give me the proper steps in getting this damn thing working properly and what to do.

Thanks in advance guys.
 

Alarus

New Member
Apr 29, 2005
226
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0
Az
May 25, 2005
#2
  • May 25, 2005
  • #2
we get that prob like that with our s-10 when we change the clutch out, we just pump it about 50k times and it works fine afterwards
 

danewers

Member
Dec 26, 2004
97
0
6
May 25, 2005
#3
  • May 25, 2005
  • #3
yeah if i knew it was gonna take so much work to make that JMC setup work, i probably wouldnt have gotten it. its extremely difficult to bleed, so make sure its completely bled. the only thing that would keep the master cylinder from moving the slave would be air in the system. mine finally works and it is one of the nicest feeling clutch pedals ive ever felt. my friends are jealous i had a friend sit in the car, pump the pedal like 5 times, and on the 5th pump he held it on the floor, and while the pedal was on the floor i opened the bleeder screw let the fluid flow out until it stopped, closed the bleeder, then my friend let off the pedal. i repeated that like 10 times to make sure all the air was out. thats the way i did it and it works great now. just keep trying, you'll get it working and you'll be happy you got it. hope that helps
 
S

STSFCTN67

Member
Feb 5, 2003
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Denver, CO
May 25, 2005
#4
  • May 25, 2005
  • #4
Take all the pressure off the clutch pedal when you bleed the system. Use anything to prop the pedal up to ensure even the weight of the pedal itself is not pushing against the slave cylinder. Then fill the reservior and let the system gravity bleed through. Once it starts to bleed through, bleed the air out as you would your brakes.
 

red65

Member
Apr 12, 2003
411
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17
Ann Arbor, MI
May 25, 2005
#5
  • May 25, 2005
  • #5
I agree with STSFCTN67. Make sure you take lots of time to let the gravity bleed finish. This gets rid of most of the air in the system. Take your time and let it drain until the fluid runs continuously (just under gravity - no pumping) out of the slave cylinder bleeder screw.

I have this setup and it works great.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
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37
Salt Lake City, Utah
May 25, 2005
#6
  • May 25, 2005
  • #6
Yeah but shouldn't my pedal at least stiffen up a little bit or atleast nudge it when I push on the pedal, I ain't getting anything from it.
 
S

STSFCTN67

Member
Feb 5, 2003
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Denver, CO
May 25, 2005
#7
  • May 25, 2005
  • #7
Have you gravity fed the system yet otherwise there is just too much air in the lines to make it move. If there is any pressure on the pedal you CAN NOT get any fluid down to the ram.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
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Salt Lake City, Utah
May 25, 2005
#8
  • May 25, 2005
  • #8
I tried to earlier but that was before i bled all the fluid out cause I overdid it. So now I have to start over. So I just open the bleed and wait till i get a steady stream and then the air is out?
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
May 25, 2005
#9
  • May 25, 2005
  • #9
I have had it opened and it is still dripping after 10 minutes is this normal, I am waiting for it to run like water not drip. Im assuming that is what I want.
 
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STSFCTN67

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Feb 5, 2003
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Denver, CO
May 25, 2005
#10
  • May 25, 2005
  • #10
A steady drip is fine. Fill the reservoir one more time and start the bleeding process.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
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37
Salt Lake City, Utah
May 25, 2005
#11
  • May 25, 2005
  • #11
I have had a steady drip going I closed it and topped off the reservoir but the clutch isn't going anywhere. I also pumped this damn thing like 100+ when the bleeder was closed to get the fluid to flow through. I should be able to hear the clutch work or feel the pedal get harder shouldn't I? I can't visually see that the clutch isn't working but it feels the same as before. What else should I do? The instructions stated to push in the clutch pedal but were a little vague wanna help elaborate what I should look for and do when I do that? My brother should be home soon so I will have him push on it and I will stick my head underneath and watch as he does it to confirm whether it is working or not.
 
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STSFCTN67

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Feb 5, 2003
450
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Denver, CO
May 25, 2005
#12
  • May 25, 2005
  • #12
After I gravity bled the system I closed the valve and got help from the wife to help bleed the system as normal. Wait for your bro to get home - you are almost there.
 
R

rufusbooth

New Member
Jan 16, 2003
168
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0
Manteca, CA
May 25, 2005
#13
  • May 25, 2005
  • #13
Bleed procedure:
Get a helper
Fill clutch fluid.
Get safety glasses! When this thing is working you WILL have fluid everywhere!
Be sure that your clutch master cylinder releases fully when the clutch is released.

Have helper pump the clutch pedal 5 times and hold it to the floor.
While the clutch is at the floor, open the bleeder valve on the clutch slave cylinder and allow fluid to be released. (this should take about 10 seconds).
Close bleeder valve and then tell your helper to release the pedal and pump it again 5 times and hold it to the floor again. The key here is to NEVER release the pedal while the bleed screw is open.


Rinse, Repeat!

Do this about 30 times and you should see a gradual increase of air and fluid released from the bleed screw each time you open it. When you first start you WILL NOT see the clutch move. This is normal and the clutch will slowly start moving as you get rid of the air in the system. You will be done when the fluid is squirting out and releasing no air bubbles.

Make sure you keep it full of fluid. If you go dry you will have to start over.

Cheers,

Rufus
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
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Salt Lake City, Utah
May 25, 2005
#14
  • May 25, 2005
  • #14
How will I know if the air is all out. Will the fluid just begin to run instead of bubble out?
 
S

STSFCTN67

Member
Feb 5, 2003
450
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Denver, CO
May 25, 2005
#15
  • May 25, 2005
  • #15
From what I remember it is not as much pressure as a brake bleed. When your brother presses down on the pedal with the valve open it should run out steady with no bubbles. Have him hold it and tighten it down. If that does not work call or email JMC. They helped me out when I bought my system used.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
May 25, 2005
#16
  • May 25, 2005
  • #16
Thanks guys I have finally got the sucker going after many refills of the reservoir she is extending fully. I will probably bleed it a little more when I am getting ready to take her out on the road. It squirts a steady stream out the top and then dies down which is what I assume I should have going and the arm is extending and the pedal is firm now. On the plus side it also got rid of the rubbing noise problem I had earlier. Now I have to get my hood aligned but that will be the next post. Much obliged guys.
 

danewers

Member
Dec 26, 2004
97
0
6
May 26, 2005
#17
  • May 26, 2005
  • #17
69Rcode_Mach1: how did you get rid of the rubbing sound? i still have that sound and its kind of annoying..
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
May 26, 2005
#18
  • May 26, 2005
  • #18
That rubbing sound just stopped when I filled it with brake fluid and bled the system. I also touched a little WD-40 under the boot of the master cylinder to be safe. Check your angle, if it is over 1/8" angle in any direction you will get that sound. I was worried cause I have it perfectly in line with my pedal with no angle at all.
 

69Rcode_Mach1

Active Member
Apr 20, 2004
1,473
1
37
Salt Lake City, Utah
May 26, 2005
#19
  • May 26, 2005
  • #19
It just stopped after a lot of pumping of the pedal during the bleeding process.
 

jcode68

Active Member
Jul 15, 2003
892
1
29
Massachussetts
May 7, 2006
#20
  • May 7, 2006
  • #20
I am resurecting this old thread after having fun with my JMC clutch today. I think I bled it good and got all the air out and the clutch fork moves about 3/8", but it feels pretty soft. Is this normal? It's just not much resistance at all, so now I'm second guessing. I don't have the engine running yet, hope to in the next couple of weeks, so I can't test to see if clutch engages properly or not. How far is the travel supposed to be and how firm should the pedal be?
 
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