Car died on Highway, need some help.

95_5.0_stang

New Member
Apr 16, 2005
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Lansing, MI.
Ok, well I was taking my car to the community college that I go to, which is like 20 minutes away. I was taking it there to start diagnosing the whole problem of it doesn't want to idle when it's cold. Well, about 10 minutes into the drive, all of a sudden RPM's drop to zero and so I tap the gas a little bit, and they jump back up and it starts driving like normal. Then 4-5 seconds later it does it again, but this time it doesn't jump back up. It kills for good. So, I towed it home, and now it will start. But I have a feeling if I took it on the highway again, it would die. So any idea what the problem is here? Could it possibly be a bad fuel pump. I'm going to get a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to it ASAP. And see if I'm getting barely any pressure at all. Could this relate back to it not wanting to idle when it's cold?

BTW, car's a 95' with an 88' v8 and 5 speed that we JUST swapped in. And it has all 95 GT wiring in the engine bay, along with a 95 GT computer, thanks to Danny (Sorscode)
 
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when you put the key in the on position (engine not started) you should hear the fuel pump kick on, if not then its dead.

did you also swap out the 88dist/accessories for the 94/95 stuff?
 
urban96 said:
when you put the key in the on position (engine not started) you should hear the fuel pump kick on, if not then its dead.

did you also swap out the 88dist/accessories for the 94/95 stuff?

Well, I'm pretty sure it's the fuel pump when I hear something, but it sounds like it's coming from passenger side under the hood. But maybe it's just because I'm inside the car. I'll have somebody do it while I stand outside. It's just a long somewhat high pitched "beeeeeeeeeeeeeeep"

Yes, the distributor is from a 94-95 GT. Think something in the distributor or in the ignition system is getting hot and not working? Like, when I go just cruise around town for a little while, the car runs great. But I have a feeling if I took it on the highway again, it would die.
 
The Beep sounds like the fuel pump resonating elsewhere - sounds fine.

Have you pulled the codes yet? That is a good place to start.

When it craps out/wont start, if you have injector pulsing and spark, your PIP is ok. If you have no spark but do have injector pulsing, look at the TFI, coil and other ignition-related items (not the PIP).

Good luck.
 
HISSIN50 said:
The Beep sounds like the fuel pump resonating elsewhere - sounds fine.

Have you pulled the codes yet? That is a good place to start.

When it craps out/wont start, if you have injector pulsing and spark, your PIP is ok. If you have no spark but do have injector pulsing, look at the TFI, coil and other ignition-related items (not the PIP).

Good luck.

I pulled the codes awhile back. But I'll do em again and see what comes up.
 
Pulled the codes. There is definatly something wrong with this thing. First code is 327 saying that EGR valve circuit is below minimum voltage. Ever since I replaced the injectors I'm getting this code. When I did the injectors I unplugged and disconnected the EGR. I plugged it back in including vacuum and it still says it. Another code I get is the 563 which means high speed fan circuit failure. This code is because I haven't put in the new fan control yet. Also, now when I start it, it only stays started for a few seconds even if I give it gas. When it dies the check engine light blinks 4 times and after it kills, the fan comes on and doesn't want to go off until I pull the key out of the ignition. Any ideas?
 
95_5.0_stang said:
Pulled the codes. There is definatly something wrong with this thing. First code is 327 saying that EGR valve circuit is below minimum voltage. Ever since I replaced the injectors I'm getting this code. When I did the injectors I unplugged and disconnected the EGR. I plugged it back in including vacuum and it still says it. Another code I get is the 563 which means high speed fan circuit failure. This code is because I haven't put in the new fan control yet. Also, now when I start it, it only stays started for a few seconds even if I give it gas. When it dies the check engine light blinks 4 times and after it kills, the fan comes on and doesn't want to go off until I pull the key out of the ignition. Any ideas?
the fan coming on and not going off sounds like the computer doesn't like the calibration. does the fuel pump come on and stay on too?
 
Also, now when I start it, it only stays started for a few seconds even if I give it gas. When it dies the check engine light blinks 4 times and after it kills, the fan comes on and doesn't want to go off until I pull the key out of the ignition. Any ideas?

This ^^ only happens when I'm checking codes. Then when it's disconnected it seems to stay running, but I still have the no idle when cold problem. But since I disconnected the wire for when I check codes the fan doesn't stay on and it keeps running if I give it gas.
 
Have you checked the IAC? I just had to replace mine it gave me a weird sound, and it came from the passenger side. My rpm went up to 3500 and then went down to 2000 and stayed there, right at the end it just died...
I changed it and my idle is rock solid again, and no funky sound either... Good luck.
 
I am having the same issue. The shop told me the fuel pump was acting up so I installed a 155lph pump and changed the filter. It drove fine for a bit but 3 days later it died on the way to work. It starts when it wants to and dies when it wants to. I havent been able to make heads or tails of what's going on. I called the shop yeaterday, and they also said check the IAC. If it is damaged or excessively dirty it can shut the engine down. I will attempt to check mine this weekend. Hope it helps!!!:shrug:
 
my95stang said:
I am having the same issue. The shop told me the fuel pump was acting up so I installed a 155lph pump and changed the filter. It drove fine for a bit but 3 days later it died on the way to work. It starts when it wants to and dies when it wants to. I havent been able to make heads or tails of what's going on. I called the shop yeaterday, and they also said check the IAC. If it is damaged or excessively dirty it can shut the engine down. I will attempt to check mine this weekend. Hope it helps!!!:shrug:

Definatly reply back here when you find a solution. Thanks man. Does your's not want to idle when it's cold too, or does it idle fine? These problems might be two different things, or they could be related.
 
there are many reasons for driveability problems so i'll try and point u in some direction. first do a visual, are any vacuum lines off or anything like that. check inside the throttle body, is it all carboned up, also clean the iac and iac passages in the throttle body. is the throttle position sensor working properly? how does the cap and rotor look? what is your fuel pressure when the car is running? does the car start now? if not, does it have spark, fuel pressure, and injector pulse? hope some of this helps. if u dont have the right equipment to check any of this like a spark tester, fuel pressure tester, or noid light set your not gonna have much luck.
 
95cobradude said:
there are many reasons for driveability problems so i'll try and point u in some direction. first do a visual, are any vacuum lines off or anything like that. check inside the throttle body, is it all carboned up, also clean the iac and iac passages in the throttle body. is the throttle position sensor working properly? how does the cap and rotor look? what is your fuel pressure when the car is running? does the car start now? if not, does it have spark, fuel pressure, and injector pulse? hope some of this helps. if u dont have the right equipment to check any of this like a spark tester, fuel pressure tester, or noid light set your not gonna have much luck.

No vacuum lines off that I can see. I'm going to take the throttle body off and clean all the passages etc. Not sure about the throttle position sensor, it may need to be replaced. Cap and rotor looks good last time I checked. Car starts right now, just needs to be warmed up for it to idle, but if cruising at 75 mph conastantly for 10-15 miles I think it will cause something to get too hot and stop working. The motor doesn't overheat though. I don't have a fuel pressure gauge around here, so I'm going to have to go pick one up.
 
u will need a voltmeter to check the tps. when u say it needs to be warmed up to idle does that mean when its cold and u start it it doesn't want to idle so u keep the rpms up with your foot on the loud pedal until the engine gets up to temperature and then it idles on its own.