Car died on Highway, need some help.

[95_5.0_stang]

u will need a voltmeter to check the tps. when u say it needs to be warmed up to idle does that mean when its cold and u start it it doesn't want to idle so u keep the rpms up with your foot on the loud pedal until the engine gets up to temperature and then it idles on its own.

That's exactly what I mean. Usually I just rev it up and keep it alive and then start on my way, but if I stop at a light or something within the first mile or two of driving, it will die. But after that, it idles decent. Thats one of the problems. The other problem is the whole thing of it dieing on the highway. It was like the first time I've taken it on the highway since the swap so I didn't know it would happen.

Oh and I forgot to mention, another symptom I'm getting is it seems to run somewhat rich. I'm judging this by smell though, not by actual A/F readings for anything.

BTW: Cleaned the throttle body out pretty good with carb cleaner, also sprayed some down in the passeges that lead into it.

 

[95_5.0_stang]

:SNSign:

 

[95_5.0_stang]

Any other ideas guys?

 

[wytstang]

I just went through this crap the PIP stator is bad. When first started in th morning is would idle like complete crap, give it gas it will either die or idle like crap all the way up in the rpms. Clear your codes and run a KOEO test using the wire trick (grounding the STI plug) if it passes all test (like mine did) while the plug is still grounded rev the engine up to 4-5g's and see if you get code 538 insufficient change in RPM/operator error in Dynamic Response Check. That's the ony code my car whould throw while checking......After idleing like crap for a minute the car reaches normal operating temp and will run fine (idles like a rock), it took a day and a half for it to act up (die, no start) for me to detect a no spark. Since I had a spare coil that I knew worked that wasn't it. I work at Advance Auto/Discount they can check your TFI module to rule that out. My $$ is on the PIP stator, our symtoms are identical.

 

[SorsCode]

I just got back from out of Town Craig. Just got your e-mail. I'm with wytstang on this. Try what he said to see if you get that code. Good luck. Keep us all updated.

 

[95WhiteVenom]

Well this sucks how great my car go nuts no idea what it is so i pulled over on my way back from a long trip. I plugged in the code reader and check the codes and well the PIP is bad? How hard is this thing to replace where is it and how much do they cost?

 

[95_5.0_stang]

I just went through this crap the PIP stator is bad. When first started in th morning is would idle like complete crap, give it gas it will either die or idle like crap all the way up in the rpms. Clear your codes and run a KOEO test using the wire trick (grounding the STI plug) if it passes all test (like mine did) while the plug is still grounded rev the engine up to 4-5g's and see if you get code 538 insufficient change in RPM/operator error in Dynamic Response Check. That's the ony code my car whould throw while checking......After idleing like crap for a minute the car reaches normal operating temp and will run fine (idles like a rock), it took a day and a half for it to act up (die, no start) for me to detect a no spark. Since I had a spare coil that I knew worked that wasn't it. I work at Advance Auto/Discount they can check your TFI module to rule that out. My $$ is on the PIP stator, our symtoms are identical.

Hmm, ok. Thanks a lot. Thanks Danny too. Even if I don't get the code, I think I will still replace it. It's like $18 dollars at advance auto parts (atleast that's what it says online here). Does that sound like the right price?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=GPS&mfrpartnumber=EL155&parttype=200&ptset=A

 

[95_5.0_stang]

When I check for the codes, I have KOEO, and I get the same two codes I have been. One about the EGR and then the high speed fan circuit doesn't work, which I already have fan problem solved just haven't put the new module in yet. And then I start it up, and rev it between 4-5k approx and check engine starts blinking, and it blinks 4 times and while it's blinking the engine is HARD to keep running, and it dies most of the time. And like I said earlier, the fan stays on until key is pulled out of ignition when the wire is hooked up to read codes. Think I should go with a new Stator and try it? I'm starting to get anxious to fix this and am willing to about try anything.

 

[wytstang]

I would most definatly go for the stator, but know this yes the stator itself is about $20 but the drive gear on the dizzy must be pressed out. Most who tried either succed or bust the drive gear forcing them to get a new dizzy anyway. I just got a whole new dizzy off a Ford tech I know. Get a new dizzy/cap&rotor and be done with it....

 

[BlackVert]

post #3:

i bet it is either the tfi or the pip sensor in the distributor

they can go bad when the engine is warmed up and they get hot.

that is why they moved the tfi out of the dizzy in 1994

dang i'm good

 

[95_5.0_stang]

post #3:


dang i'm good

Hey now.....I just needed a couple opinions in here.

Thanks everyone. Wytstang, I think I'm going to try and press that gear off before I go buy the Stator, and if I break it or something, then I'll just have to look for another dizzy.

 

[95_5.0_stang]

Took dizzy out, and pressed off the gear, and the other little collet at the top of the shaft and got it out. There is only like 2 bolts holding in the stator correct? And is that it? Anything else special I need to do before putting it in? Like lining something up or any specs on anything?

 

[95_5.0_stang]

Well, both the gear and the little collet came off fine, but we went to put it back on, and the little collet slid back on fine, but then we went to press on the gear and supported the dizzy wrong and it sheared the pin on the collet, and cracked the collet in two. And they don't sell these little collet's seperatly, not even from ford. I would of rather had the gear break. Now, I'm not sure what to do.

 

[wytstang]

Get a whole new one...........I'm not going to say I told you so........

 

[95_5.0_stang]

Get a whole new one...........I'm not going to say I told you so........

:Zip2:

It was going so good. I have the new stator in there too. I just need this dang peice. crapola

 

[95_5.0_stang]

Gave a friend of mine a call, who takes a community college class in machining. Left a message, hopefully he can make me one of these peices. Shouldn't take much time, just on a lathe. And it being made out of billet aluminum would be a lot stronger.

I just don't have 175+ to spend on a MSD setup or something like that. And I find it useless to buy a used stock one because the stator will probably need to be replaced anyway, and I'll have to do this all over again.

 

[BlackVert]

Gave a friend of mine a call, who takes a community college class in machining. Left a message, hopefully he can make me one of these peices. Shouldn't take much time, just on a lathe. And it being made out of billet aluminum would be a lot stronger.

I just don't have 175+ to spend on a MSD setup or something like that. And I find it useless to buy a used stock one because the stator will probably need to be replaced anyway, and I'll have to do this all over again.

junkyard?

 

[95_5.0_stang]

junkyard?

Yea, already thought about that, but there aren't many places around here, let alone one that has a 94-95 mustang GT....

 

[wytstang]

Advance Autoparts $110 + core($50)?????remanufactured....

 

[HISSIN50]

Take a look at some of the reman'd dizzies in the parts store - they often dont bother trying to get that pin back in the original hole. They drill a new hole, leaving the original one vacant.