car dying at idle and...

[Adam706]

my 95 mustang gt is dying at idle, while going down the road, and coming to a stop.. sometime it'll restart and i can drive it other times it'll restart and when the rpms go down it'll die, sometimes it'll take up to 15 min of trying before it'll restart.. i've checked the IAC, TPS, Mass Air, EGR, vacuum lines etc.. so i went to have a diagnostics test ran and it said a bad BOO Circuit.. Brake On/Off wtf... so can someone tell me what this does and how it can cause this problem? thanks

 

[HISSIN50]

If the BOO wasnt activated during the test, it can spit a code.

Were your tests done while the car was acting up? If not, the tests are invalid.

Good luck.

 

[Adam706]

If the BOO wasnt activated during the test, it can spit a code.

Were your tests done while the car was acting up? If not, the tests are invalid.

Good luck.

not sure... the test were ran while i was at home... i was having other stuff done so i dropped it off...

well i did the check engine light test before i took the car to the shop and got codes
33 (3 nomal flash, short pause, then 3 again) repeated.
long pause, flash, long pause
211? (2 fast flashes, short pause, 1 flash, short pause, then 1 again) repeated...

33 is EGR and 211 is PIP

What does it sound like to you? i need help.. anybody? lol

 

[Adam706]

i'm getting my stang back tomorrow, and was hoping for more things to check before i take it to an auto electric shop and spend a crap load of money.. lmao

 

[HISSIN50]

94-95 GT's use 3 digit codes. Because one code was off, others might have been misinterpreted as well. I'd start over.
As an aside, the code readers with the LCD display are a nice way to alleviate confusion.
Good luck.

 

[Adam706]

so the first three flashes must have been 111 all clear
i'll been reading and others have said "stator assembly" or "TFI module" on code 211?

 

[HISSIN50]

If 211 is indeed a PIP code (I would have to look it up for the verbage), that matches what you're seeing. It can be an issue with the PIP-in signal being blocked by a bad TFI, but that's a rare failure.
In addition, a TFI will often generate an IDM code.

What I'd do: If you can make it fail in your driveway, do it. WHen it cranks but will not catch, check for spark. You will have none with either a bad PIP or TFI. Now look for injector pulsing. If you see pulsing, the PIP should be fine. If you dont have pulsing, chances are strong the PIP is bad.

You can also test Pin 6 on the TFI (PIP-in signal).

Good luck.

 

[Adam706]

thanks for your time Hissin... i'm just going take it this auto electric shop friday morning (my day off) and let them rob me. lol it only does it when it's hot and like in the city traffic.. when i'm to the highway with the throttle open it runs good.. oh well thanks again!

 

[HISSIN50]

I have no problems with taking a car in if you don't have time but if you want to save some cash, just post up. We can break the tech notes down to being really simplistic (what I outlined above can all be tested in under one minute). One issue is that you might be paying a shop to drive the car in order to get it to act up. That gets expensive (E.g., "By the time we towed it back to the shop, it was starting again").

The most likely culprits are the PIP, TFI and coil, in roughly that order. But the testing really is needed to narrow it down (the above test differentiates PIP from the rest of the ignition. One more test would differentiate the TFI from the coil).

Anyhow, just wanted to say that we're all here to help if you have time.

Good luck.

 

[Adam706]

well my friend said that he had the car running then it cut off. thats when it gave the BOO code... could a bad BOO Circuit cause the PIP, TFI, ect. to mess up?

 

[HISSIN50]

Not likely. The BOO is just your brake light switch. When you run self codes, you have to hit the brakes and turn the steering wheel (as I recall). And on AODE's, you have to hit the OD button. This just lets the computer see that manually activated switches are functional.

I have never seen a BOO code cause any sort of issue period. Maybe someone else has a different experience but I honestly doubt it. It's almost like having a code (if there was one) for your HVAC fan knob. It's just not important.

Good luck.

 

[Adam706]

well i ran the tests again and got
koeo
111 - all clear
211 - pip
koer
311 - smog pump removed
314 - smog pump removed
632 - i didnt hit the OD button
676 - HVAC fan knob failure

should i replace (upgrade) the dizzy and TFI...
where is the TFI on my 95?

 

[HISSIN50]

Since you're getting a PIP code, I'd replace the PIP. You can do this piecemeal - it involves pressing a gear off the dizzy and swapping the PIP components. It's a 20 dollar sensor or so.

Or a reman'd dizzy is the route many go. They're about 100 bucks. Some reman'd dizzies dont have a new PIP from the reman' company so there's a chance the dizzy will need to be replaced again down the line.

The aftermarket (performance) dizzies have weak points in and of themselves.

The TFI is on the passenger side fender well. I'd hold off on replacing it but you can if you want. I'd personally use a Motorcraft TFI but that's just me. A search will reveal what people use and how they like it.

Good luck.

 

[Adam706]

so you'd go for a OEM dizzy other then aftermarket?

 

[HISSIN50]

so you'd go for a OEM dizzy other then aftermarket?

Personally, I would go with a reman'd dizzy over an aftermarket dizzy (for more than double the cost). If someone is not a DIYer, sees ultra high RPM's or likes nice looking speed parts, then that's a time for the aftermarket dizzies IMHO.

Since we all have different standards, I'd just price reman'd dizzies and new ones and see what makes sense. For those that are more well-off than I, the price difference is no biggie.

Good luck.