Car Has Been Hard To Start Lately

I've noticed about a month or so ago, maybe 2, that when I turn my car over, it just tries to crank tries to crank then finally catches. It almost sounds like a car sounds when it is flooding or flooded. I will try and get a video and post it. Spark plugs were changed recently, new wires, new fuel filter, tried a new module from autozone. Fuel pump is chiming and the pump was put on maybe 2-3 yrs ago. I recently did a test to see if I had a leaky injector and none were leaking. I took the adj. fpr off and put stock one back on and it didnt seem to make any difference. At the time of trying the fpr I was trying to see if it would make a difference in how my car ran overall, and ran more consistently good. I don't think the issues I am having now started till I reset my idle.
I followed the procedures and set the idle using the idle bypass screw as well after talking to both the ford racing and professional products tech. It's idling fine so I wouldnt think my starting issue would be idle related anyway though. The pickup in the distributor was changed a few yrs ago as well and anytime I have had any pip issues, the car would just turn over and turn over and wouldn't try to catch as it is now and was more of a when the pickup got warm i guess when it would act up. I also notice that sometimes when coming to a stop and slowing up and I throw the car in neutral, it would want to cut off sometimes. I can tell when it is wanting to do it cause I look at the rpm needle and listen to its tone. I also have done the koeo and koer tests and got codes 111 for All systems pass. It seems though that it has to be an ignition, spark, or fuel related issue I would think but the things I have checked should indicate they are fine????????? And the car trying to catch as it turns over ????
Help...........

I'm gona try and post a video of what its doing sometime before wk is out. Is uploading a video the same pretty much as doing an image?

Yellow302 said:

My first stab is going to be power / ground wires. Leaning toward the battery and engine grounds.

After that, Clogged IAC valve (use TB Cleaner) / Dirty maf (rubbing alchol with a qtip) / TPS sensor (check with voltmeter, .8-1.0 at idel) / O2's (they would be throwing a check engine light)

I had bad starts, no acceleration under load. Sounds like you have good fuel and spark, power to the starter.

I just redid all my battery power lines and engine grounds. with 2 and 4 guage wires. Covered the exposed parts with DiElectric grease to prevent corrosion. Soldered every connection and heatshrink wrapped eveything / new mesh protective shield.

The almost 20 year old stang starts faster than my 2010 accord!

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yeah i knew i was needing to check all of that stuff out very soon, the wires and makes sure they all had good connections. I will get with a guy and let him check/fix all of that for me.

My problem this morning took about 10 mins to start the car. An hr and a half after I got to work, I went back outside and started it and it did start fine but still a little hesitant than as to what I was accustomed to. Did you ever notice your volt meter flickering just a little bit before you change all your wires?

also, does advance, autozone , ect have all of the wiring I will need to redo everything? Did u go with the general battery connectors , fancy ones? If u can post some pics when u get time

oh yeah i checked the other day and just for precaution i set the timing over

stang668 said:

Well, if you changed the stator in the dizzy, you had to restab it. make sure the timing is on. Had the same issue..damn 1/2 in dizzy bolt not tight enough..lol

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