The car i am getting is running really rich, you can smell the gas just standing there while it is idling. Also the stock Fuel pressure gauge is broken. Anyone know where i can get a new FP gauge at for cheap, the engine is an 88 Lincoln LSC 5.0 engine, which im pretty sure is the same as regular 5.0's. Also, the stock engine doesnt have a FPR on it does it?? Anyone know any ways to lean the fuel out a bit?? Would advancing the timing at all lean it out a bit? What FPR would you guys recommend and where to get it from?
Car is running rich
- Thread starter JJPA
- Start date
a stock stang has a FPR, as do cars with return line fuel systems.
the puter will adapt the A/F to accomodate changes you make to FP, so I would be lookin elsewhere for the cause (bad sensors, cracked charcoal cannister, etc).
good luck.
the puter will adapt the A/F to accomodate changes you make to FP, so I would be lookin elsewhere for the cause (bad sensors, cracked charcoal cannister, etc).
good luck.
Did you upgrade to a returnless style fuel system? If not, you should have a return style fuel system with a FPR.JJPA said:
like I said, the computer will adapt to whatever FP you set that is within reason. Adaptive control is a warm and fuzzy thing.
good luck.
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.
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