Ok I am kinda new to the forums, so bare with me. I just bought a 89 gt with a 5.0. I is all stock except for the typhoon intake. Car is fouling plugs very bad on my second set in 3 days. It had a ajustable fuel pressure regulator on it, but i put a stock vacum operated regulator back on it. My question is, is there anybody out there that would have any idea what could be causing this problem. I have checked every thing that i know to check thanks in advance.
Car is runnning really rich
- Thread starter GTNMS89
- Start date
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
Pull the codes. Also, you may want to give the MAF a good cleaning, while you're in the engine compartment. Be careful when cleaning the wires, they're thin and will break easily. How old are your O2 sensors?
bloopbloob
Member
just in case, by cleaning the the wires, it means just spraying them with electrical parts cleaner. i've heard of people using q-tips on here. i suggest you dont touch them. just asking for trouble. i'm also guessing thats not the problem (but it wouldn't hurt to try), and you really should dump the codes before anything.....
I've done mine with q-tips and rubbing alcohol, but I believe you can purchase mass air sensor cleaning spray at most autoparts stores as well. You can also use electrical parts cleaner.
Runnin Rich
Sorry guys that I didn't get back to you but I couldn't remember my user name and password so I did a new one. Dude, I had the same problem and these guys helped me alot. Come to find out my problem was 7 30lb injectors and 1 that was even bigger but don't know the size. I was dumping so much gas it wasn't even funny. I would fill it up and go to work and back home and be on Empty. Is it spitting out black smoke (fuel)?
Sorry guys that I didn't get back to you but I couldn't remember my user name and password so I did a new one. Dude, I had the same problem and these guys helped me alot. Come to find out my problem was 7 30lb injectors and 1 that was even bigger but don't know the size. I was dumping so much gas it wasn't even funny. I would fill it up and go to work and back home and be on Empty. Is it spitting out black smoke (fuel)?
PUNISHER RACING
Active Member
the pony boy
Founding Member
did you install the intake recently? if so did you stap the distributer in the rite spot and set your timing correctly? phil
well the car dosent have any o2 sensors. The motor was just put in so it will a whole lot of codes. I put a new fuel pressure regulator on it and checked the fuel pressure and it is still go way to much at idle. I holds about 70 psi. The car is to early of a model to have a maf. i just wonder what could be causing this high pressure. I am pretty sure that it is a stock fuel pump. I am just lost i guess
Black1987Stang
Active Member
The car has 70 psi of fuel pressure? with a working stock regulator? sounds like a fuel restriction in the return line, or a bad gauge.
PUNISHER RACING
Active Member
Fuel pressure should be 38-40 PSI at idle, with the vacuum line disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator. Be sure to cap the disconnected vacuum line so it doesn't affect your idle.
