I just redid my headers and replaced the plugs. According to the old plugs it looks like my car may be running lean. I have the fuel pressure at 44 with the vac off. I figured 24lb injectors should be good with my setup. I have oh hand 30s with the C&L flow meter to match. I was thinking of changing to those, upping the fuel pressure, or bringing my timing down a bit, I got 18 degrees advanced right now. It may be to much. The car seems to ping once it warms up a bit. Any suggestions?
Car may be running lean with 24s?
- Thread starter X302LX90X
- Start date
Before switching injectors and MAF, I'd back the timing out a few *'s and bump pressure. Make a drastic change in fuel pressure first just to see if anything changes. If you go fat and the plugs are still white, maybe then think about doing the injectors.
holy crap thats alot of initial timing.
What mods are done to the engine? Having some of that info could help.
If you went with the 30s then you would drop the pressure a little not raise it. You may wind up dumping in too much fuel with too much fuel pressure.
What mods are done to the engine? Having some of that info could help.
If you went with the 30s then you would drop the pressure a little not raise it. You may wind up dumping in too much fuel with too much fuel pressure.
I agree, thats alot of timing. If your motor pings, back it out.
The panhard bar and torque arm plant the rear so hard. Even with the stiffer springs, struts, and front end braces, i could use more front end bite. I think the next step is adding the MM K-member kit. I've had my car on scales and balanced the corners..Still has way more Bite in the rear. If anything, the torque arm, panhard bar and LCA's are too good.
The panhard bar and torque arm plant the rear so hard. Even with the stiffer springs, struts, and front end braces, i could use more front end bite. I think the next step is adding the MM K-member kit. I've had my car on scales and balanced the corners..Still has way more Bite in the rear. If anything, the torque arm, panhard bar and LCA's are too good.
tording
Founding Member
What heads are on the car?? I know trickflow heads like a lot of timing. I had a set of the standard TW heads on my 91 GT and I ran 18* all the time and never had a problem. The car ran the best and made more power on 18* than any other setting. But for sure bump your timing down a bit first and see what happens. For a lot of heads 18 is a lot. Most don't run more than 15* I believe.
stick with the 24's i think 30's will be a little much unless u plan on adding some kind of power adder. oh i agree back the timing off a bit. maybe it could just use a tuning if u get a chance and have the money i would take to a dyno to get the spec on everything like what the A/F ratio is at certian rpms
Does the C&L MAF match the injectors? Are you sure that you have the proper sample tube?
Before you do anything elese make sure what you currently have is working properly. Malfunctioning sensors could casue lots of different problems.
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
Before you do anything elese make sure what you currently have is working properly. Malfunctioning sensors could casue lots of different problems.
Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/pc-7208-90-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $35.
txstang84
15 Year Member
More often than not, if you're running lean, the insulators will be clean. But it could also be too hot a plug...that's what I'm dealing with right now...I know it's running rich, but the plugs show lean. Do you have any soot or other deposits (ash) anywhere else on the plug to indicate normal combustion?
the plugs looked too clean and dry when taking them out. From the exhuast I thought it was rich. i used the scanner on it a while back. I believe my TPS may be out of range (don't think this would contribute to the problem). It also said car was running lean, or problems with the injectors, everything else was good. They are brand new; all the plugs show the same result. I guess I'll bring it down to 16 degrees advanced and up the fuel pressure a bit to see if that helps. I did not do it but a fuel filter and a 255lph fuel pump was put in it before I got it 2 years ago. Do I need Hi Flow fuel rails? I think thats for power adders or serious NA.
txstang84
15 Year Member
I believe the stock rails should be good up to about 400hp...after that, it's a good idea to step up...but hell, there's people are getting away with more. What all do you have done again? I got GT-40X heads...what cam, intake, etc.?
edit...ok, B-cam
Honestly, I think you should be ok, but since you've got the 30's maybe try steppin up
edit...ok, B-cam
Honestly, I think you should be ok, but since you've got the 30's maybe try steppin up
txstang84
15 Year Member
On the timing, definitely drop it...I recall reading quite a while back that the X heads are pretty conservative on timing.
I have 469RWHP with the stock rails and a 255lph pump.
With his power level the 24s are plenty.
