Car pinging in this Phoenix, AZ heat!!!

[Josh94gt]

OK, cleaned the MAF (it did help), but my car still detonates badly when I give it more than like 30% throttle on the commute home when the temps are 110+. My temp gauge reads at "L", and on some days my AC will stop blowing cold for a couple minutes and then "fix itself". Ideas, solutions, suggestions?

Keep 'em coming!!!

 

[The Green GT]

What is the timing set at?

Bump it down and use high octane. I have my timing @ 12* and have to run 93. im in Louisiana, so its pretty fuggin hit here too.

As far as the A/C, that sounds like a different issue. Sounds like you are low on freon and the compressor is cycling. Check the pressure and add some is needed.

 

[Guero]

Get use to it lol!!! Make sure your thermostat, cap and cooloant are all in good working order

 

[HISSIN50]

Agreed.

You need a real gauge - no if's and's or but's about it. Phx is 1/10 of a mile from the sun.

The computer will shut the AC off if the ECT reading indicates you're getting too hot - that's another possibility.

Having the fan come on sooner can help.

Pull codes and look for anything unusual (especially lean codes). If you can, check fuel pressure. Pumps that are on the outs tend to start crapping themselves when they are hot.

Chris (a fellow Phx area-guy to you) is having a similar issue if you want to compare notes.

Good luck.

 

[Bullitt95]

OK, cleaned the MAF (it did help), but my car still detonates badly when I give it more than like 30% throttle on the commute home when the temps are 110+. My temp gauge reads at "L", and on some days my AC will stop blowing cold for a couple minutes and then "fix itself". Ideas, solutions, suggestions?

Keep 'em coming!!!

Until you can solve the cooling problem (probably the reason why the engine's detonating), retard the timing back to 10 degrees and use premium fuel to stop the pinging.
You might also wanna buy an infrared gun and check what your coolant temps. really are. With the gauge on L, I would expect the coolant to be at about 222*F or 106*C so it's definitely too high.
Recharge your AC system with refrigerant as the first step. That'll at least ensure that it doesn't stop intermittently. Then check if the electric fan works in both high speed and low speed modes. You may have a problem with one or both fan relays in the CCRM.
Checking the thermostat is simple. Start the engine when cold and keep it idling for a few minutes. While the engine's cold, the thermostat should be closed and the upper radiator hose will be soft (and cool). As soon as it opens, the hose will suddenly harden and feel hot. At that point, ask a buddy to take a look at your temp. gauge and see what it reads. The stock t'stat opening is rated to 192*F so that should be between the N and the O on your gauge.

 

[Josh94gt]

thanks for the suggestions. i'll have to try a couple of these out over the weekend. my car just hit 100k, and it could probably use an AC recharge and a new tstat.

One other thing, I notice that when my AC comes on, it really makes the rpms dip (when i'm idling), or if i'm driving, I can feel the resistance of the compressor when it engages. I never remembered it doing that before, but it could just be my memory. Any ideas on that?

thanks!!!

 

[cjones]

are you driving above 30mph when it heats up?? if so, check for the valance under the radiator and that nothing is blocking the radiator or condensor.

please reread Hissin50's advice --
the computer WILL shut of the A/C when the engine gets too hot.
check the codes and if you have a scanner check the sensors for irregularities.

 

[bmac50]

When was the last time you replaced the coolant? If it's been quite awhile like your T-stat the stuff works only so long. If you decide to change it back flush the system after draining it and on refill use 50% distilled water, 50% coolant and a bottle of water wetter (
about 6 bucks). I'm in Florida and I use a 180 thermostats and have no problems.

 

[Chris_Red_V8]

OK, cleaned the MAF (it did help), but my car still detonates badly when I give it more than like 30% throttle on the commute home when the temps are 110+. My temp gauge reads at "L", and on some days my AC will stop blowing cold for a couple minutes and then "fix itself". Ideas, solutions, suggestions?

Keep 'em coming!!!

I'm not pinging, but I'm running hot as hell and my tune is rich as hell. I hadn't altered the tune because I didn't want to end up pinging as well.

I think first and foremost you'd want to go over every inch of your cooling system, and definately invest in an autometer water temp gauge. That's what I'm doing (as far as going over the cooling system).

 

[Zero_chance]

I live in MA which isnt exactly the hottest but on some of the hotter days weve had lately (90s) my car would ping like you read about at around 30 percent throttle. I filled up with premium and added octane booster and by the time I got home it was gone. It just sucks because not many people use premium around here so I cant help but wonder how much crap from the tanks Im putting in my tank from it sitting there so long...

 

[final5-0]

thanks for the suggestions. i'll have to try a couple of these out over the weekend. my car just hit 100k, and it could probably use an AC recharge and a new tstat.

One other thing, I notice that when my AC comes on, it really makes the rpms dip (when i'm idling), or if i'm driving, I can feel the resistance of the compressor when it engages. I never remembered it doing that before, but it could just be my memory. Any ideas on that?

thanks!!!

With that many miles and considering how old the car is now ............

You may have a part of your radiator filled with sludge making it not
as effective as it once was

Just a thought

Your ISC could be a bit stopped up as well causing that unstable idle

Some have had luck cleaning them with solvent

Grady