Car problems just got worse (ignition issues)

[serviator]

I had just posted about my car not being able to start at random intervals. When it finally started it had rough idling (less than 8 cylinders it sounded like).

This morning I was going to take it to the dealership, but wanted to unload my Diablo Predator's custom tune (only thing changed was the gear ratio). I erased the custom tune and when I turned the ignition afterwards it just went click-click-click in rapid succession without any belts turning. At this point the battery is almost flat, but that shouldn't cause it?!

Does anyone know what the click-click-click noise could be a symptom of? Also, half of the time all gauges still move all the way to the right when the ignition is turned on (which Kilgore suggested could be the CCRM or RPM).

Thanks!

 

[serviator]

I found some information suggesting the noises I am hearing is due faulty connectors, e.g. on the battery (which I checked) and starter (didn't check).

Seems like I have to put my car on a tow truck tomorrow

 

[Mike97gt]

low battery voltage..

even if there is enough to get the car running, if the voltage is low that can cause all kinds of computer problems in these cars.

Check the battery ( don't use that little eye thing on the stock ford battery) and check connections

 

[serviator]

I didn't know low voltage could cause that, but it gives me hope that I *may* not have to use a tow car tomorrow. When my wife comes home I will try jump starting the car and see if that will help. Meanwhile I could spend my lunch break jacking up the car to check the starter.

I recently had the car worked on by a place that kept screwing things up every time I went to pick up the car, and they got really tired of me pointing it out and having to fix it, so I have also been thinking it could be sabotage.

If I get it started, does it sound like it would be safe to drive it 2 miles to the dealership if it idles rough again? When it happened, I checked the engine compartment, and the engine would shake at its worst. It kept going from 600 - 900 RPM and back again.

 

[Kilgore Trout]

Clicking is low battery but the CCRM maintains battery so again I say all these intermittent problems you are having are the CCRM. But I am by no means a professional mechanic like SVTTech76 is...

 

[serviator]

While checking the connections I wanted to have a look at the starter too, but somewhat mechanically inclined, I just can't find it.

I checked the Haynes manual and the Ford technical service publication, but with no luck. I have it on jack stands and I am looking mostly on the right side for it.

Any chance someone can point out its location on the picture below or have a good another picture with its location?

 

[serviator]

Nevermind, I think I found it. The cables seemed solid.

Without ranting about Ford's lack of quality, it bothers me that my wifes old 100.000+ miles car is idling in great shape next to mine, which has less than 23.000 miles on it, always been garaged, always serviced etc. but can't start. Whatever is causing this, I can guarantee I will never buy a Ford again. Not just because of this single issue - there's been to many problems compared to how well it's been taken care of.

Oh well, I'll be in a good mood again, once I get it going (but I still won't buy a Ford again).

 

[DerekStangGT]

Nevermind, I think I found it. The cables seemed solid.

Without ranting about Ford's lack of quality, it bothers me that my wifes old 100.000+ miles car is idling in great shape next to mine, which has less than 23.000 miles on it, always been garaged, always serviced etc. but can't start. Whatever is causing this, I can guarantee I will never buy a Ford again. Not just because of this single issue - there's been to many problems compared to how well it's been taken care of.

Oh well, I'll be in a good mood again, once I get it going (but I still won't buy a Ford again).

as SVTTECH said, the "clicking" is low battery voltage. just jump it to get the car going. drive it for ~10 min at mid RPMS to charge the battery. then turn it off and re start it again right away. if it starts, the alternator is good. if not chack the alternator. if it starts, let it sit over night and try to restart it. if it doesnt, you may have a voltage draw somewhere.

oh, and these problems youre having arent ford specific. they happen on Hondas and Toyotas too, the "most reliable cars in the world"

 

[serviator]

I did try and jump start the car and while it did solve the clicking noise, it still will not start. I have previously let it sit overnight and had luck starting it again the next day - one time I did what you also suggested and drove a 15 minutes trip to charge the battery. I returned home, turned off the car, turned it back on and it started idling really rough. I turned off the car again, turned it back on and it kept idling rough.

In the two days following that, I have been unable to start it back up. My scan tool tells me there is a "P1000 OBD System Readiness Not Complete" issue. I think this is just because the battery has been disconnected and I haven't driven the car since.

You are right that other cars have problems too, I know. Part of the reason I am saying I won't buy a Ford again is what I have been through with this car the past 1/2 year because of Ford's lack of quality (long story, but I have been dealing with Ford directly and two departments in their dealership and when I thought I was done, this happened).