Car randomly shutting off

[95Vert383AOD]

Yep...Well the module on the left side is fairly new. But after the cars been running it will randomly shut off. Sometimes it starts right up...sometimes it takes like a minute. It will die while the cars in motion. When i go to restart it sometimes i hear the pump come on (Aeromotive) and sometimes i don't. So i figured relay and wired the pump straight. Yeah until my car dies and i can still hear the pump going. so its not the pump.

I think the Distributor is the culprit for the random dieing. Only dies when warm too. It will start cold every time. (like in the morning) Are there any aftermarket 351 distributors besides MSD??? I hear they don't last so long. If not ill just buy a standard replacement one.

I dont know if this is related but my fan last light refused to kick on and the temp. started climbing. Popped the hood and the fan would come on but not stay on long enough to cool things down. Like the computer was trying to keep engine temps at a steady 240-250. Freakishly odd **** is happening.

 

[desertcox05]

sounds like the dizzy to me too but IDK about the aftermarket 351s.
does your fan kick on low and hi speeds. are you sure thats your h2o temp.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Normally the fan seems to kick on at 210. I have a Autometer Gauge and a new sending unit for the gauge. Its accurate. Sometimes the fan randomly wont come on...it did this like a year ago too. then magically started working again. Funny thing is the fan would start comming on at 250 and would turn off then on again.....as if it was maintaining 250 degrees. ODD

 

[HISSIN50]

Check to see if you have a circuit breaker on the fan wiring connector. For some reason low might not be functioning and when high comes on, the breaker quickly opens.

To diagnose the fan wiring click here

I like the idea about the PIP but pull codes to see if one is stored. Also consider that your ignition switch might be overheating. Unlikely but not to be dismissed. It just takes some testing when it acts up. Tough when issues are intermittant and not long lasting.

Good luck.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Hissin....heres an idea...My car randomly shuts off.....when i go to start it sometimes i don't hear the pump prime even when clicking it to the off position (Aeromotive pumps are loud)...Also im having random fan issues....Both relays in the CCRM. Is it possible that these 2 issues are related to the same unit? Tasca Ford quoted me $430....Local parts store $160. Is it possible these units can be repaired? On some other ford forums ive seen folks fix them because of bad solder points.

 

[95cbr331]

Would definetly consider the CCRM.. they tend to be huge culprits. Another problem i had with my fuel pump not priming is the fuel pump circuit in the ecu itself was dead. Frisky electronics!

 

[HISSIN50]

Hissin....heres an idea...My car randomly shuts off.....when i go to start it sometimes i don't hear the pump prime even when clicking it to the off position (Aeromotive pumps are loud)...Also im having random fan issues....Both relays in the CCRM. Is it possible that these 2 issues are related to the same unit? Tasca Ford quoted me $430....Local parts store $160. Is it possible these units can be repaired? On some other ford forums ive seen folks fix them because of bad solder points.

Wow, I'm surprised a parts store listed a CCRM. You can get them used in the classifieds for 50 bucks or so, in case that's enticing. If you find one with a slightly off number from yours, PM me. I have a list of cross compatible units, but I dont post it because I havent tested them all. Some CCRM's bolt up but a few pins are different so things go haywire.

The coils for the relays do fail but it can be above the talent of many to repair it (I didnt mean folks in here but the general automotive public).

I'm not able to think of any glaring commonalities with the FP and EDF/HEDF relays. It's not like they share a common coil or load wire. I would not necessarily be looking at the CCRM. The ignition switch would be a commonality for both/all 3 relays failing, though it's not super likely that it went bad.

For the fan, I'd see if you can get low to come on. If so, turn on the AC and see if high comes on and stays on. Knowing if one or both speeds are hosed would help. Also the high speed fan terminal is known for burning/charring. It can hinder the connection, which could cause the CB (if applicable) to open or make the fan connection so bad that the fan shuts off.

Check the ECT calibration as well. At 212*, you should be under 1.0V. At room temp, it's 3 volts and change.

I just kinda have the feelin that it's two separate issues.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

UPDATE

Started the car with the A/C on. No fan. Fan didn't come on until 208 degrees...fan would run 30-45 sec. then shut off....then do it again to maintain temp. but wouldn't come on before even with the A/C on. The car then randomly stalled after the car reached temp. No bogging or anything.....just shut down as if i turned the ignition off.

On a side note i have a Lincoln mark viii fan in the car. i just plugged the fan in like i would the 94/95 fan seeing as it had the same plug. Ford didn't reverse the high and low wires did they? This is better than what it did 2 nights ago though. 2 nights ago my fan wouldn't come on until almost 250 degrees and the motor seemed like it was maintaining a temp just under 250 degrees (was cycling on and off around 248 degrees)

But nonetheless i couldn't get the fan to come on under 210 degrees. Does it matter that i don't have the A/c installed any longer??? Or that i now have a Manual PCM (T4m0) when the car came with an auto computer (U4P0) ???

 

[HISSIN50]

I didnt think that the Mark VIII used a on/off low speed - it was modulated via the EEC. I might be thinking of another fan from another car however.

If the polarity was backwards, the fan would just spin backwards (and if you used a freewheeling diode, you'd have smoked it).

It doesnt take long to cool down across the low temp threshold (6-8*F) so 30-45 seconds might not be far off (the MK VIII fan is awesome). I would do the CCRM tests to see if the EEC is commanding that high speed function.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Ok thanks Hissin' do you know off hand what CCRM's are compatible with the 94-95 cars. Because i have a fresh SBF Fan & Clutch itchin' to go on lol

 

[HISSIN50]

Ok thanks Hissin' do you know off hand what CCRM's are compatible with the 94-95 cars. Because i have a fresh SBF Fan & Clutch itchin' to go on lol

It's best to try and find one that's the same number as your existing one. If you find one that's a couple of late alpha-numerics off, I can compare it to my list of known and theorized correct CCRMs. Again, I dont post the list because it's just something that I put together awhile back.

 

[99FiveOh]

Is there any way to eliminate the CCRM for good? It's just a box housing a few relays correct? Couldn't one technically make their own relay setup using common relays?

JT, would you happen to have a diagram for the CCRM?

 

[HISSIN50]

Mark, hidden in post 4 is a link. The bottom has some schematics. If that's not quite what you're lookin for, I have some others somewhere.

And you're right, it is pretty much just a box of relays. The EDF monitor might be about the only non-replaceable portion. Otherwise, one could use their own SPST or SPDT (needed for normally closed circuits) relays. I never recommend this just because when an important relay fails (EEC relay, FP relay, etc), the car will stall and that could lead to an accident. But for someone who does clean soldering and uses quality relays (and is aware of the risk), it's a nice work-around.

 

[99FiveOh]

Remember, Fox's have the standard FP relays and they work for years without fail, at least in my Fox's they did. And if they went bad a new relay was only a few bucks. And the junkyards are full of those relays.

Ok, end of hijack!

 

[HISSIN50]

Remember, Fox's have the standard FP relays and they work for years without fail, at least in my Fox's they did. And if they went bad a new relay was only a few bucks. And the junkyards are full of those relays.

Ok, end of hijack!

Correct. I would want to use a Ford socket and relay however, and those are pricey. So I'd fear that most folks would use a cheaper relay. I'd worry about such a relay failing due to exposure to heat and the elements, as well as solder joints breaking down for the same reason. An ill-fitting socket could allow corrosion on the terminals as well.

That was part of the reason I worded my previous post the way I did. I never want anyone to say that they didnt know the risk (considering that someone who is not even a member [and who we don't know] might find info in a search). In PM's with people I know (and whose abilities I'm familiar with), I have suggested just what you noted however.