Engine Car runs great without spout, plug it in and it dumps fuel and dies within seconds

Okay, so I had some extra cable around and I connected a ground to the blue wire that’s in my picture. Which is supposed to be the one coming from the battery, I ran it back to my battery which is in my trunk. And it started up no problem, didn’t have to feather the throttle to keep it from dying, however it still dies when I plug the spout in
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Taken from the 'cranks but no start checklist'
A.) The PIP sensor in the distributor tells the computer when to fire the injectors. A failing PIP sensor will sometimes let the engine start if the SPOUT is removed.
A noid light available from any auto parts store, is one way to test the injector circuit to see if the injectors are firing. The noid light plugs into the fuel injector harness in place of any easily accessible injector. Plug it in and try to start the engine: it will flash if the injector is firing.
thanks to jrichker and other members for the checklist.
I just made a baffling discovery. The car had been off for a couple hours, went and plugged the spout back in and put an inline spark tester between the coil and dist cap because I was diagnosing a bad pip sensor which shouldn’t spark if the spout was connected. And it fired first try and ran perfectly. Blew my mind because it has never ran with the spout in it. Took the spark tester back out and it would start but die shortly after. Come to find out I believe it’s because my plug wires are way too big (12mm). Got a good deal on them and honestly thought bigger was better. The spark tester was only 7mm, could these wires potentially show too much resistance resulting in not enough spark at the dist? And also the plugs?
It’s got a brand new TFI module in it, I was trying to diagnose for a bad pip (in-line spark tester) with the spout in it just to see if it would spark with the spout in. And to my surprise it started and ran great. I don’t think pip is bad because I was obviously getting fuel or else it wouldnt have ran