OK, I've been chasing intermittent error codes for a while, indicating lean or rich on both banks. I've replaced both O2 sensors, the PIP, the harmonic balancer and the FPR. All of these have helped the Cobra Clone run better than it has in a long while. I replaced the harmonic balancer after I couldn't set the timing after rebuilding the distributor, turns out it spun like 8* or something. But today, the car began to run like a$$.
Current codes are:
176
181
186
189
212
Not sure why 212 is there, I used a Motorcraft PIP. Anyway, code 186 is a new code, so I searched the forums. I found this thread: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/codes-186-176.466579/#post-4201109. It suggested a bad MAF and a way to test it. Now, as of today, my tach needle has been bouncing around anywhere from 100-200 RPM at random, even at idle, and the engine feels like I lost a ton of power. I unplugged the MAF, and while the engine run poorly the tach needle was STEADY. I could hold it at a specific RPM and the needle didn't move.
I've never dealt with a bad MAF before, though I've cleaned it a lot. Anyone know if this was a valid test for a bad MAF?
Thanks.
Current codes are:
176
181
186
189
212
Not sure why 212 is there, I used a Motorcraft PIP. Anyway, code 186 is a new code, so I searched the forums. I found this thread: https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/codes-186-176.466579/#post-4201109. It suggested a bad MAF and a way to test it. Now, as of today, my tach needle has been bouncing around anywhere from 100-200 RPM at random, even at idle, and the engine feels like I lost a ton of power. I unplugged the MAF, and while the engine run poorly the tach needle was STEADY. I could hold it at a specific RPM and the needle didn't move.
I've never dealt with a bad MAF before, though I've cleaned it a lot. Anyone know if this was a valid test for a bad MAF?
Thanks.
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UPDATE
The MAF sensor was definitely bad. The Cobra Clone is my only car, so I need the car working ASAP. And no one had a MAF sensor in stock, not even an off-brand one. I finally found a re-manufactured one from Cardone. I know there's no way to properly re-manufacture a sensor, all they do is test it and pretend it still works fine. But it was my only option. I installed the sensor, and it worked!
Well, mostly.
It's working better. The tach needle still bounces, but not as much as it did before. Idle is a little rough, but it smooths out after 2000 RPM or so. And most of the power is back. The important thing is, the car is now driveable. I've ordered a brand-new Delphi MAF sensor, so this MAF sensor will do until the new one arrives.
The MAF sensor was definitely bad. The Cobra Clone is my only car, so I need the car working ASAP. And no one had a MAF sensor in stock, not even an off-brand one. I finally found a re-manufactured one from Cardone. I know there's no way to properly re-manufacture a sensor, all they do is test it and pretend it still works fine. But it was my only option. I installed the sensor, and it worked!
Well, mostly.
It's working better. The tach needle still bounces, but not as much as it did before. Idle is a little rough, but it smooths out after 2000 RPM or so. And most of the power is back. The important thing is, the car is now driveable. I've ordered a brand-new Delphi MAF sensor, so this MAF sensor will do until the new one arrives.
FINAL UPDATE: The MAF sensor was the issue. The new Delphi sensor smoothed out the idle and power is WAY up. And no error codes for the past week, so I'm sure the issue is solved. The tach needle bounce turned out to be a loose spark plug wire, not sure how that happened.