Car should have a bit more power ideas?

I have a '89 Convertiable with 73K miles a 5-Speed, crank and waterpump pullies, mac cold air intake with the chrome heat shield, 70MM MAF, 6AL MSD with coil 3E sparkplugs, short throw shifter. All of these have helped but it just seems like it should have a little more pull on the butt dyno! Just feels kinda flat to me and like it should have a bit more power. The model CIA killing it? Timing? No Codes relaced fuel filter a while ago, new trans fluid, any ideas guys? Its not completly lacking power but should be more. I gears would slove alot of it but spend that money on new top!
 
Is timing something that can go out of adjustment in 22 years? Only thing I can think of is that? I know the MSD, complete tune up helped but with the MSD (Got it free) would I be able to get a big pick up with advancing the timing? I have never done it before was wondering if its a must do with upgraded ignition?
 
Try setting the timing at 14 degrees BTC.

Do not try and set the timing without a timing light!
You should expect to always run 93 octane gasoline to prevent pinging.


Simplified diagram of what it looks like. Not all the marks are shown for ease of viewing.

ATC ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '!' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' BTC
---------------- > Direction of Rotation as viewed standing in front of the engine.

The ' is 2 degrees.
The ! is TDC
The ' is 10 degrees BTC
Set the timing 5 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 5 marks towards the driver's side.

10 degrees BTC is towards the drivers side marks.

Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10 degrees BTC or 14 degrees BTC or something else if you have NO2 or other power adder. I try to paint TDC red, 10 degrees BTC white and 14 degrees BTC blue.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light. Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug. Then start the engine.

Remove the SPOUT connector (do a search if you want a picture of the SPOUT connector) It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT
Warning: there are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.

Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT connector and you are done.
 
jrichker you always have great advice! I have no problem running premium gas. So does bumping the timing help alot? I will get a timing gun. Any other ideas? Also I know everyone says a Throttle Body wont help that much. So anyone got a use bbk 65MM TB or if I can use 70 on a stock intake.
 
Guys, I was chasing this problem still and just decided to pull a spark plug it had white build up on the ignition points. Then after reading some articles on here of plugs it seems most everyone perferes the stock motorcraft copper tips. I have E3 plugs that are close to two years old anyone else had problems with E3 or should. I also have MSD 6AL with a MSD coil. Should I ditch these E3 Plugs?
 
I was pretty down on my '87's power and just installed a set of 3.73 gears. It made a world of difference in acceleration. Seems like the best bang for your buck improvement you can make to our cars. Go for the gears, you won't be sorry.
 
Personally I wouldn't run E3s on anything that doesn't have a coil on plug set up. Get stock motorcraft plugs.
If you have not done so get a catback setup and gears.
 
Well for one the old butt dyno seems to wonder where the pull is. As far as compare I have had a few mustangs before. I will just go for the gears and ditch the E3 also. 4.10 since its not a daily driver.

Up to you, but I'm not sure I would go to 4.10's with a 5 speed. You will spend most of your time shifting. Opinions may differ but I say 3.73's are great for a 5 speed, I run 3.55's in my 93 LX and it pulls real hard.
Gears will make a huge difference though!
 
It's all relative. An '89 GT vert running perfectly is not that fast. I'm not picking on you. I own an '89 5.0 as well.

The first thing to do is to see if it is running properly. If it's getting fuel, you swap the plugs, and then you verify that it's all working properly, you should then check the timing and set it to 14° as was mentioned.

That's really all you can do.

My '89 LX hatch with a stock 302 was pretty slow. Probably a 14.0 @ 99 car. Then I got a wild hair and started doing some tweaking. I dropped some weight and added UPR suspension, drag radials, and a MAC cold air, then I took it to the track. With the motor still stock, I went 12.91 @ 103.7. Here's an article I wrote about it.

1989 Ford Mustang LX - Fox Buildup

What's crazy about it is that the butt dyno thought the car was a beast after the tweaks... but I removed the entire drivetrain from the car, put it in a Fox coupe, added an 85mm MAF sensor, and the car made 236rwhp and 303 lb/ft of torque. 236hp!!!

So like I said, it's all relative. As was already mentioned, I thought about the timing, the rear gear, and what tires you're running. An '89 Vert like yours can run in the 13s with the timing set at 14°, a 3.73 gear (the 4.10 will be fine on drag radials), and a decent tire.
 
I will advance the timing for sure. And will ditch the E3's. I am about to install a MM clutch quadrant kit. Hope all that goes well sounds like its going to be a PIA I have looked through the tech questions on here. Then it will be timing and gears. Thanks for the help guys.