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Engine Car stalls when going to a stop with the AC on

  • Thread starter Thread starter michaelgt
  • Start date Start date Jul 3, 2019
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Blown88GT

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Jul 4, 2019
#21
  • Jul 4, 2019
  • #21
michaelgt said:
Also I've checked the alternator I have a 130 amps at idle its 80 amps I've also clean the EGR and the throttle body
Click to expand...
What's going on here? 80A at idle?
 
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michaelgt

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#22
  • Jul 4, 2019
  • #22
Mustang5L5 said:
Agreed. Usually when you roll to a stop the VSS signals the ECU and the iac will open up s tad.

So either the signal isn't reaching the ECU or the iac isn't responding as it should .

However, doing it once engine warms up also is a hint it might be sensor related as well.
Click to expand...

I'll look at the VSS and the idle control valve again but I already got a new VSS also and the idle control valve is new
 
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michaelgt

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#23
  • Jul 4, 2019
  • #23
Blown88GT said:
What's going on here? 80A at idle?
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking... is that normal ? is it to low? do I need a new alternator?
 
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michaelgt

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#24
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I'll try to look at the wiring of the VSS and the idle control valve Maybe something's going on there by any chance would 24 injectors have to do anything with this bad idling maybe it's too much gas?
 

Blown88GT

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#25
  • Jul 4, 2019
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michaelgt said:
That's what I was thinking... is that normal ? is it to low? do I need a new alternator?
Click to expand...
That seems much too high.
Do you have an e-fan? Is it relay controlled?
 
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michaelgt

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#26
  • Jul 4, 2019
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Blown88GT said:
That seems much too high.
Do you have an e-fan? Is it relay controlled?
Click to expand...

I dont have a e-fan
 

Mustang5L5

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#27
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  • #27
Woah...you are drawing 80 amps at idle? Through what?
 
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michaelgt

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#28
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Mustang5L5 said:
Woah...you are drawing 80 amps at idle? Through what?
Click to expand...

Is that bad? I have 80 amps at idle... I don't have a sound system just AC headlights and fog lights.. nothing extra
 

Mustang5L5

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#29
  • Jul 5, 2019
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I'll need to recheck when my current draw was at idle, but even with an electric fan I recall it being much lower.

With the ACon is it higher?
 
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michaelgt

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#30
  • Jul 5, 2019
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Mustang5L5 said:
I'll need to recheck when my current draw was at idle, but even with an electric fan I recall it being much lower.

With the ACon is it higher?
Click to expand...

With the AC on its lower it's like around 56 amps
 
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michaelgt

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#31
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Is there any way to test the volts for the VSS how many volts should it be at??
 

jrichker

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#32
  • Jul 5, 2019
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michaelgt said:
Is there any way to test the volts for the VSS how many volts should it be at??
Click to expand...
The VSS does not use voltage for measuring vehicle speed. Voltage output could vary from car to car and with wear and resistance of the connections and wiring.

The computer uses frequency output: as the car speeds up, the VSS output frequency increases. The computer takes the frequency output value it received from the VSS sensor and converts it into MPH. The only way the frequency changes is to make the driveshaft turn faster. Under normal circumstances, that means the car is traveling faster.

In fox body Mustangs a defective VSS will usually set computer trouble code 27 or 28,
 

Blown88GT

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#33
  • Jul 5, 2019
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michaelgt said:
Is that bad? I have 80 amps at idle... I don't have a sound system just AC headlights and fog lights.. nothing extra
Click to expand...
Bad? Is the car going up in flames bad? You have an unaccounted draw of 20A.
Something is seriously wrong. How are you measuring this? DC clamp meter?
I've measured current when Mark VIII fan (using relays) is running with engine on...about 100A. With no eFan, it's about 60A.
GT fog lights are a separate but related issue. You need to get them off the headlamp circuit. I suspect you're headlamp switch is burned & melted. This could be where the excessive current is going. Could also be a bad 3G alternator, if diodes are shorted & not blown. Is the 3G fused?
 
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michaelgt

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#34
  • Jul 5, 2019
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jrichker said:
The VSS does not use voltage for measuring vehicle speed. Voltage output could vary from car to car and with wear and resistance of the connections and wiring.

The computer uses frequency output: as the car speeds up, the VSS output frequency increases. The computer takes the frequency output value it received from the VSS sensor and converts it into MPH. The only way the frequency changes is to make the driveshaft turn faster. Under normal circumstances, that means the car is traveling faster.

In fox body Mustangs a defective VSS will usually set computer trouble code 27 or 28,
Click to expand...

I don't have any codes maybe I'll just check the wiring for the VSS maybe something there is wrong
 
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michaelgt

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#35
  • Jul 5, 2019
  • #35
Blown88GT said:
Bad? Is the car going up in flames bad? You have an unaccounted draw of 20A.
Something is seriously wrong. How are you measuring this? DC clamp meter?
I've measured current when Mark VIII fan (using relays) is running with engine on...about 100A. With no eFan, it's about 60A.
GT fog lights are a separate but related issue. You need to get them off the headlamp circuit. I suspect you're headlamp switch is burned & melted. This could be where the excessive current is going. Could also be a bad 3G alternator, if diodes are shorted & not blown. Is the 3G fused?
Click to expand...

https://lmr.com/item/SVE-9902A/Mustang-4-Gauge-Power-Wire-Kit-Premium-W-Noise-Suppression-3 that's what I got with my 3-g 130amps alternator. and no my car is not going on fire it runs great just with the AC on it wants to die. and usually it does so right now I'm not using my AC
And as for the fog lights I already "upgraded" with the relay so my fog lights and headlights are too different circuit maybe I have a bad alternator?

I measured it with the O'Reilly tool it said that it has 80 amps at idle
 
Last edited: Jul 5, 2019

nickyb

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#36
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I believe that when you turn a/c on the idle is suppose to kick up some.there is a electric connection on the compressor ,check that out and you might just solve this mystery?
 
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Fischers7

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#37
  • Jul 6, 2019
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I have the exact same issue with my 91. Same mods as you. Mine started after a poor dyno tune. its like the computer does not add the extra RPM when at idle.
 

Mustang5L5

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#38
  • Jul 6, 2019
  • #38
There is an idle up to compensate for the load. The ECC gets a signal that the AC is on and initiates slight idle up.

Electrical Load shouldn't change much, just the engagement of the clutch.

Give me a day or so and I can take a load reading at idle with ac on and off. Currently downpouring
 
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michaelgt

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#39
  • Jul 6, 2019
  • #39
nickyb said:
I believe that when you turn a/c on the idle is suppose to kick up some.there is a electric connection on the compressor ,check that out and you might just solve this mystery?
Click to expand...

I took that connector off and put the AC on it didn't turn off but the AC wasn't cold
 
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michaelgt

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#40
  • Jul 6, 2019
  • #40
Fischers7 said:
I have the exact same issue with my 91. Same mods as you. Mine started after a poor dyno tune. its like the computer does not add the extra RPM when at idle.
Click to expand...

Yep exactly like mine. Mine has the stock computer
 
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