According to my diagram that connector tees out of the neutral sense circuit, but it isn't connected to anything. The one in my car is just sitting there stuck against a metal bracket.
a bit of an update, car still wont start, i am getting 12v constant on the red/green coil wire, 11.6v on the injector red wire (checked that three or four times on different grounds, same reading). musta been moving the probe too much the first try. wish my body was a bit longer so i could crank the motor and check the spark, but im not so ill have to wait a few minutes for others to get home for that. i DID see a bit of a spark inside the cabin coming from the main dash harness when i cranked it once, going to go take care of that real quick, hope its just a wire that got some insulation chewed up by the metal dash frame. im really hoping this isnt a computer problem, i really dont want to spend a third of my paycheck on a new one....
just checked spark with a plug, nothing at all. im really at my wits end here, i havent been able to drive it in nearly two weeks now, and ive gone through the checklist twice. think im going to throw a new dist. on and see what happens, i really dont know what else to do, theres no loose wires, i havnet changed any wiring other than the headlight switch (all i did there was resplice things that got disconnected), all fuses are good.....i just really dont know.
I guess that you have narrowed it down to spark from reading this thread.
I firmly believe that the best way to check for spark is to use a timing light. Have a helper crank the engine over with the timing light connected to see if you get any flashes and check more than one cylander. If you get flashes then you are getting good spark.
Pulling your codes /putting the computer in diagnostic mode may be helpful.
If you removed your distributor while you were working on your car then sometimes it is a pain in the ass to get it back in the same spot. If you never pulled it out then I definitely wouldn't recommend pulling it out.
If you aren't getting spark then I would put my money that you aren't getting fuel. I can always hear my fuel pump prime when I put the key in the run position. I would check that. If you suspect its fuel, then maybe you have a bad fuel pump relay or something like that.
I hope this helps and good luck. I hate when my car does that kind of stuff to me.
I guess that you have narrowed it down to spark from reading this thread.
I firmly believe that the best way to check for spark is to use a timing light. Have a helper crank the engine over with the timing light connected to see if you get any flashes and check more than one cylander. If you get flashes then you are getting good spark.
Pulling your codes /putting the computer in diagnostic mode may be helpful.
If you removed your distributor while you were working on your car then sometimes it is a pain in the ass to get it back in the same spot. If you never pulled it out then I definitely wouldn't recommend pulling it out.
If you aren't getting spark then I would put my money that you aren't getting fuel. I can always hear my fuel pump prime when I put the key in the run position. I would check that. If you suspect its fuel, then maybe you have a bad fuel pump relay or something like that.
I hope this helps and good luck. I hate when my car does that kind of stuff to me.
it definetly isnt a fuel problem, pump primes, you can smell gas after cranking, and the plugs were wet when i pulled em. its not getting spark, jrichker sent me a nice pm last night to check out a couple other things (thank you), ill work on doing that, probably not tonight though, gotta work then throw a speech together (someone tell me why a machinist needs a speech class please?)