car wont crank with the key
- Thread starter swigs84
- Start date
do you know what a fusable link is. they go to the soninoid's positive stud. one or more of those are blown. they are like an inline fuse and they say fusible link on the little orange think that is connected to the wires.cut them open and see which one is messed up. may be better to replace them with some buss fuses so you can actually see which one is blown
ok this is wierd because after posting here the first time, i was driving the car and i killed it. i tried to crank it and it stopped. i saw a glow through my cowl hood. i cranked it with a screwdriver and kept going. then i flipped on my high beams and all of a sudden my lights shut off and the car died. i had some thick wire with me so i fixed the problem. my fusable link had blown too. what gives. fate i guess
i would really check out the wiring on all of the fusable links, as mentioned.
for the key situation, it could be another problem. im not familiar with 4 eyed stuff, so i will say what i know for 87 on up stuff, and let you decide if it applies (it should).
if you have absolutely no turning over, etc when in crank mode:
pull the top wire off the solenoid (it slides on to a stud). put a test light on it, and ground the other test light lead. the car wont start now with a key (even if it was workin before). turn the key to crank and see if the light lights up. if not, then check whatever safety switch you have (clutch safety switch on back of clutch pedal for sticks; neutral safety switch for auto). try again. if still no, check the ignition switch for continuity at start position. if still not, then it is the wiring. rewire it. simple to do.
if the push on wire (used above for testing) has 12 volts at crank, touch the push on wire to the battery lug of the solenoid (with all the wires on it). and if it starts, the solenoid is good. if this does not work (and you had 12 volts at the test earlier), but jumping the lugs of the solenoid (battery lug to starter lug) works, then that suggests the solenoid is bad.
hope this makes sense. good luck.
for the key situation, it could be another problem. im not familiar with 4 eyed stuff, so i will say what i know for 87 on up stuff, and let you decide if it applies (it should).
if you have absolutely no turning over, etc when in crank mode:
pull the top wire off the solenoid (it slides on to a stud). put a test light on it, and ground the other test light lead. the car wont start now with a key (even if it was workin before). turn the key to crank and see if the light lights up. if not, then check whatever safety switch you have (clutch safety switch on back of clutch pedal for sticks; neutral safety switch for auto). try again. if still no, check the ignition switch for continuity at start position. if still not, then it is the wiring. rewire it. simple to do.
if the push on wire (used above for testing) has 12 volts at crank, touch the push on wire to the battery lug of the solenoid (with all the wires on it). and if it starts, the solenoid is good. if this does not work (and you had 12 volts at the test earlier), but jumping the lugs of the solenoid (battery lug to starter lug) works, then that suggests the solenoid is bad.
hope this makes sense. good luck.
mysticfire5OH
New Member
i had the same problem on my coupe project. The key would turn everything on and prime the fuel pump but it wouldn't start.. so i came up with a very easy solution by wiring a 12volt trunk release button (out of a mustang of course) and mounted it under my dash with a conduent (sp?) tie down. So now i turn my key forward and just hit the button with my left hand a wha-la it starts..like a race car muah hahaha
cheap fix and i didn't have to chase shorts and fusable link and what-not
its also a cheap theft deterrent
cheap fix and i didn't have to chase shorts and fusable link and what-not
its also a cheap theft deterrent
Some diagrams to got with Hissin50's explanation...
http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21328
http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=21328
rd
Founding Member
You did not say which trans you have, but it sounds like the trans neutral safety switch is not connected, or the switch is not adjusted.
An auto trans should start only in park or neutral. A manual should be only in neutral, and or, with the clutch pedal depressed. There may be a clutch pedal switch also. I have only auto trans cars so I am not sure about sticks. My old Jeep T5 had like 4 wires on the switch, 2 for backup, and 2 for the start circuit, I think.
Occasionally, the ignition switch itself will get out of adjustment. Usually easy to correct also.
If the relay on the fender works when given power direct, then it is one of the items in the start circuit from the ignition switch.
An auto trans should start only in park or neutral. A manual should be only in neutral, and or, with the clutch pedal depressed. There may be a clutch pedal switch also. I have only auto trans cars so I am not sure about sticks. My old Jeep T5 had like 4 wires on the switch, 2 for backup, and 2 for the start circuit, I think.
Occasionally, the ignition switch itself will get out of adjustment. Usually easy to correct also.
If the relay on the fender works when given power direct, then it is one of the items in the start circuit from the ignition switch.
This is great!
well, not exactly, but it means that im not alone on this one. I am going through the exact same problems with my 4 eye
right now, im swapping out my clutch switch. after that, im going with the ignition switch--which they say is known to go bad. Keep me informed on what you find out.... it might solve my problem too.
well, not exactly, but it means that im not alone on this one. I am going through the exact same problems with my 4 eye
right now, im swapping out my clutch switch. after that, im going with the ignition switch--which they say is known to go bad. Keep me informed on what you find out.... it might solve my problem too.
on 87 on up stangs, one can bridge the clutch safety switch wiring so that the clutch pedal position is irrelevant. on my 88, the switch connector (not to be confused with another switch on the back of the pedal - for cruise control?) had two terminals. one terminal had 2 wires terminating into one terminal and the other had one wire. i used a blade fuse to bridge the connector. this allows the car to start with just the key (no clutch depressing), so be careful. if this solves the problem, then it looks like the switch was bad.
EDIT, Jrichker, great diagram. makes sense of my rambling and is much more clear.
good luck.
EDIT, Jrichker, great diagram. makes sense of my rambling and is much more clear.
good luck.
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