Car won't restart hot!!

jrichker · Nov 29, 2010

PayUpSuka said:
I've done all the list. The car has not been driven in 4 months cause of this issue. I've held it to the floor, engine just cranks normal and won't even attempt to fire.

What don't you have? You have to be missing either a properly timed spark, correct amount of fuel or air. One of the three is not present. Do all your testing when the engine won't start. Something will show up missing.

PayUpSuka · Nov 29, 2010

jrichker said:
What don't you have? You have to be missing either a properly timed spark, correct amount of fuel or air. One of the three is not present. Do all your testing when the engine won't start. Something will show up missing.

I'm going to go with the timing/spark. I've checked it all though, I just don't understand. I've locked out the timing to bypass the spout/computer advance, still nothing.

I've killed my battery countless times trying diffrent things to get it to fire. (yes, it's always in good condition for starting, cranks fast. My alt is also good, making 14.5V's)

I'm just out of idea's.

HISSIN50 · Nov 29, 2010

So you're not sure if you have spark and/or a properly timed spark? That's easy enough to confirm.

PayUpSuka · Nov 29, 2010

HISSIN50 said:
So you're not sure if you have spark and/or a properly timed spark? That's easy enough to confirm.

The car runs on a dead cold start. Timing is set at the factory 10 degree's. The chip does the advancing for the boost.

I've verified spark at the coil and each plug, it's there.

I was saying the computer could be retarding the timing a ton, but it's not since I've tried setting the timing locked and that didn't work.

jrichker · Nov 29, 2010

The base timing is supposed to be set at 10-14 degrees. The computer cannot retard the timing to a value less than the base setting. The computer does not advance the timing until it sees a steady 400-500 RPM.

Since you problem only occurs on a hot engine , look at the hot item failure list. Do all the testing when the car won't start.
Use The Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs to find the troubleshooting test process for these items.

1.) TFI module
2.) PIP sensor inside the distributor. The distributor needs to have the gear pressed off the shaft to replace the PIP sensor. Be sure the sensor is bad before getting started down this road.
3.) ECT sensor
4.) Ignition coil

PayUpSuka · Dec 15, 2010

Still fighting this. I thought maybe the battery cables going to the trunk where causing too much resistance and not sending enough power to the coil once hot.

I got shorter wires and tried moving the battery up front. Didn't help.

The car DOES restart if I bump start it. Had a friend tow me around and it does burbles back to life if being towed.

HISSIN50 · Dec 16, 2010

Again, run the list when the car will not start.

Mussemies · Dec 16, 2010

Check if the injectors leak. The leaking fuel evaporates inside the intake manifold and makes the airfuel ratio too rich to ignite.

Take the injectors of the engine. Plug 'em back on in fuel rail and lines. Put som paper under the injectors. Jump wire the fuel pump relay to get some fuel pressure and check if some injectors start to drop fuel. It is ok for one or two drops per minute.

Stever89 · Dec 16, 2010

Had a similar problem with mine a week or two ago (battery in trunk also). It was the starter connection at the solenoid. Got a wire brush on the lugs. I also got a bunch of those grounding washers (they have a star-like appearance) and used those at all the grounds.

PayUpSuka · Dec 16, 2010

Stever89 said:
Had a similar problem with mine a week or two ago (battery in trunk also). It was the starter connection at the solenoid. Got a wire brush on the lugs. I also got a bunch of those grounding washers (they have a star-like appearance) and used those at all the grounds.

The one on the fender, or on the starter?

See the car doesn't even have time to get hot.. It's pretty much after 3-5 mins of running. I only let it get up to temp (180 degree's) to get the oil thinner and let the battery charge some.

seijirou · Dec 16, 2010

Your symptoms sound like flooding. Starts great cold, won't start hot by cranking but it will start hot with a push-start, Wet plugs, spraying starting fluid doesn't help.

If you floor the gas pedal while cranking, the computer (I didn't read the whole thread line by line, just did some glancing and I'm assuming you have an EEC-IV computer) will turn off the fuel injectors.

This will allow the cylinders to dry out while cranking because no new fuel will be added. It will need to crank for several seconds while clearing the cylinders. After several seconds the fuel level in the cylinder should drop enough to reach a combustable ratio, and it'll catch, at that moment take your foot off the gas pedal and it'll run.

I'm pretty sure this is in JR's crank but no run checklist, did you try it yet?

Stever89 · Dec 17, 2010

PayUpSuka said:
The one on the fender, or on the starter?

See the car doesn't even have time to get hot.. It's pretty much after 3-5 mins of running. I only let it get up to temp (180 degree's) to get the oil thinner and let the battery charge some.

On the fender.

Car won't restart hot!!

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