Car won't Start......again :( !!!

Bad plugs and wires would not really do it. It sounds like you might have a clogged fuel filter or a bad pump. Do you a fuel pressure gauge, if so has your fuel pressure running the same as it always been. Might also be a bad coil or bad ground.

I'd put my money on the fuel pump, mine used to do the same thing, except i was a jackass and ignored the problem until i was stranded.

Just goto ebay and get a 190 walbro pump, if it doesn't rememdy the situation, at least you have a better fuel pump and one less thing to look at.

Also what i just said above is only if the car cranks but doesn't start, because your description of the problem is unclear.

If it's not cranking like you said, it's the battery or the alternator.

Another vote for the fuel pump. Same thing used to happen to me. Drive the car for 20 mins., then it would die, let it sit for 15 mins. restart drive for another 20 and it would die. I replaced the TFI module first (just because it was an easy fix), but the car continued to stall. Replaced the fuel pump with a Summit "house brand" 190 unit (aka walboro)....solved the problem immediatly!

guys, unless we know for sure what is going on, it is too hard to diagnose.

S95S, cranks= the motor turns over, but will not 'catch'.

turns over= the motor cranks.

catches= the motor starts.

if when one turns the key, nothing at all happens, it is not cranking.

if it turns over (whir whir....noise), but wont catch, that is cranking.

please be more specific. i bet the guys above are guessing correctly, but there is no need for anyone to have to guess.

pull codes and post what you find.
good luck.

good post, HISSIN...yes, very different problems and very different solutions.

Listen for the fuel pump to turn on when you turn the key (just to start, don't actually crank)...the pump primes for around 5 sec. If you need the pump to stay on for an extended period of time, you can do that by jumping a few pins -- if you want to do that, post back up and ask.

If the pump doesn't turn on, go around and beat on the gas tank with your fist right by the fuel pump (pass side-middle of tank). Retry, that may fix it...I know I did that once. Of course, you'd still need to look into the situation.

Fuel pump is simple, put the key in, turn the key to the on position (last spot before starting) and listen for the pump to prime, you'll hear a whine come from the back of the car. If it doesn't it's more than likely the fuel pump.

Sound is 2 or 3 seconds long, then it stops.

ok, every one has had good advice for ya.

what i would do:
grab a spare spark plug and pull a plug wire. put the extra plug in the plug wire boot and ground the threads of the plug to the plenum. then crank the motor - see if you have spark (it will jump the gap of the plug).

if so, you can likely discount the ignition (unless it is intermittantly working). do you have a fuel pressure (FP) gauge?

one can hook up to the schrader valve on the passenger fuel rail to check pressure. listening for the FP to prime is good. if you dont hear it, i would check the intertia switch (in the trunk). then i would probe the Fuel pump relay socket to see what is missing.

then go from there. good luck. oh yeah, im sure JR will be along soon with his master list for ya.

Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park. Remove coil wire from distributor & and hold 3/8” away from engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.
Most of the items are electrical in nature, so a test light, or even better, a voltmeter, is helpful to be sure they have power to them.
No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) MSD or Crane ignition box if so equipped
B.)Coil
C.) TFI module
D.) PIP sensor in distributor
E.) ECC relay next to computer - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
F.) Fuse links in wiring harness - look for 12 volts at the fuel injector red wires
G.) Ignition switch - look for 12 volts at the ignition coil red/lt green wire.
H.) Computer

2.) Spark at coil wire, pull #1 plug wire off at the spark plug and check to see spark. No spark, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Moisture inside distributor – remove cap, dry off & spray with WD40
B.) Distributor cap
C.) Rotor
D.) Spark Plug wires
E.) Coil weak or intermittent - you should see 3/8" fat blue spark with a good coil

3.) Spark at spark plug, but no start.
Next, get a can of starting fluid (ether) from your local auto parts store: costs a $1.30 or so. Then pull the air duct off at the throttle body elbow, open the throttle, and spray the ether in it. Reconnect the air duct and try to start the car. Do not try to start the car without reconnecting the air duct.
Two reasons:
1.) If it backfires, the chance for a serious fire is increased.
2.) On Mass Air cars, the computer needs to measure the MAF flow once the engine starts.
If it starts then, you have a fuel management issue. Continue the checklist with emphasis of fuel related items that follow. If it doesn’t, then it is a computer or timing issue: see Step 4.

Clue – listen for the fuel pump to prime when you first turn the ignition switch on. It should run for 5-20 seconds and shut off. To trick the fuel pump into running, find the ECC test connector and jump the connector in the lower RH corner to ground. See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html for a description of the test connector. If the relay & inertia switch are OK, you will have power to the pump. Check fuel pressure – remove the cap from the schrader valve behind the alternator and depress the core. Fuel should squirt out, catch it in a rag. Beware of fire hazard when you do this. In pinch you can use a tire pressure gauge to measure the fuel pressure. It may not be completely accurate, but you will have some clue as to how much pressure you have.

No fuel pressure, possible failed items in order of their probability:
A.) Tripped inertia switch – Coupe & hatch cars hide it under the plastic trim covering the driver's side taillight. Use the voltmeter or test light to make sure you have power to both sides of the switch
B.) Fuel pump power relay – located under the driver’s seat in most stangs built before 92. On 92 and later model cars it is located below the Mass Air Flow meter. Look for 12 volts at the Pink/Black wire on the fuel pump relay.
C.) Clogged fuel filter
D.) Failed fuel pump
E.) Blown fuse link in wiring harness. Look for 12 volts at the Orange/Lt Blue wire on the fuel pump relay
F.) Fuel pressure regulator failed. Remove vacuum line from regulator and inspect for fuel escaping while pump is running.

Fuel pressure OK, the injectors are not firing.

A.) A Noid light available from Autozone, is one way to test the injector wiring.
B.) I like to use an old injector with compressed air applied to the injector where the fuel rail would normally connect. I hook the whole thing up, apply compressed air to the injector and stick it in a paper cup of soapy water. When the engine cranks with the ignition switch on, if the injector fires, it makes bubbles. Cheap if you have the stuff laying around, and works good too.

a.) Pull an injector wire connector off and look for 12 volts on the red wire when the ignition switch is on.
b.) No power, then look for problems with the 10 pin connecter (salt & pepper shakers at the rear of the upper manifold).
c.) No power and the 10 pin connections are good: look for broken wiring between the orange/black wire on the ECC relay and the red wire for the 10 pin connectors.


4.) Spark & fuel pressure OK.

A.) Failed IAB (no airflow to start engine). Press the throttle ¼ way down and try to start the car.
B.) Failed computer (not very likely)
C.) Engine ignition or cam timing off: only likely if the engine has been worked on recently).
D.) Firing order off: HO & 351 use a different firing order from the non HO engines.
HO & 351W 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Non HO 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

ok guys, Joe has posted his list; we can all go home now.

Silver95Stint said:

Thanks Joe that is a very detailed list....she lives again. I have no idea what this could be now. It sucks being over here and not having somebody trustworthy and reliable to work on your car. I tried to crank her up 2 days ago and she started right up. This is by far the weirdest thing I have ever seen. So what now I wonder?

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As i said earlier (i think i said) a bad fuel pump will do this, i know from experience. But it will strand you eventually, so don't ignore it.

2000xp8 said:

As i said earlier (i think i said) a bad fuel pump will do this, i know from experience. But it will strand you eventually, so don't ignore it.

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Same thing happened to me and it was the fuel pump. The pump could be bad and still prime. I was having the same promblems till my pump stopped priming totally. I bought a 255lph walbro for $100 shipped and that solved the problem.