mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
You could also use a 1057 or 194 bulb with some test leads soldered or crimped on to it if you cant get to a store.
Car won't start immediately after a drive..
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You could also use a 1057 or 194 bulb with some test leads soldered or crimped on to it if you cant get to a store.
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Pulled the spout connector and checked for spark as outlined in the diagnostic. No spark with or without the spout connector.
The next thing on the list for me to check is the msd box. What's the best way to check it?
I am guessing 6al or a btm ? there is a diagnostic on msd site to ground one of the wires and if it sparks it's good , gotta look on the website I had to do it when I was getting my friends 468 Chevy running in his notch because of course first crank is never a charm
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7-UP BILL
Founding Member
Yes it's a 6al. I'm going to their site now to look for diagnostic. Thanks!
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Not the best approach: the injector pulse is very narrow when compared to the pulse required to get visible light from an incandescent light bulb. If you want to cheap out, then get a 12 volt LED from Radio Shack.
Noid light substitute:
RadioShack® 12V/20mA 4mm Red LED with Holder
Model: 276-270(A) | Catalog #: 276-270 $2.19
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Not the best approach: the injector pulse is very narrow when compared to the pulse required to get visible light from an incandescent light bulb. If you want to cheap out, then get a 12 volt LED from Radio Shack.
Noid light substitute:
RadioShack® 12V/20mA 4mm Red LED with Holder
Model: 276-270(A) | Catalog #: 276-270 $2.19
Never said it was the best approach. What I said was he can rig that if he can't get to the store. How many people have a 12v/2oA 4mm Red LED light laying around in their toolbox vs. an everyday side marker bulb? Obviously if he can drive to Radio Shack, he can drive to the parts store for the Noid light.
Here's a video showing how it works fine
none of my local autozone or napa stores had a noid light in stock. i made one using a 194 bulb. the bulb flashed so the pip is good. i only get one start out of the car each day. it idles and runs great. after that one start, there is no spark.
i tested the msd box per the msd website directions and also spoke with a tech there. the test did not produce spark however the msd tech told me that if this is an intermittent problem, it it most likely not the msd box. he said that when the msd box fails, it typically doesnt work again ~24 hrs later. i'm going to keep going through the list. chipping away at it....
You need to run the checklist when the car won't start. That way you have a much better chance of finding the problem. Unfortunately, that's usually terribly inconvenient.
Deffinitly run the check list , I know you didn't do this but I had a problem one time , I wanted to run the stick computer in my car so I repinned the 02
harness according to what I was told and it fried the comp , car ran but funny , I took it to work went in to get coffee and shut it down would not start , went home to get my a9p and it started again once it was cold , once I put my good comp in it was fine ..... maybe something is up where the comp is getting hot
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harness according to what I was told and it fried the comp , car ran but funny , I took it to work went in to get coffee and shut it down would not start , went home to get my a9p and it started again once it was cold , once I put my good comp in it was fine ..... maybe something is up where the comp is getting hot
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...just a little update..
this morning i went outside and first thing performed the msd spark check. I got strong spark. Then i got in the car and reset the ignition (clicked it to OFF then back to ON) and performed the identical spark test for the msd box again. this time NO spark...literally 10 seconds after seeing spark on the previous test! still working thru the checklist as time allows.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Try this. Unplug and bypass the damn MSD-May Spark Discharge- box from the ignition, It should be attached with the female/male harness and plug the factory harness back into the factory coil harness. See if the car starts and runs fine then.
There is a reason you see so many of those crappy MSD boxes for sale.It is not a question of if they will fail but WHEN. IMO there is no reason a N/A car needs that. I've run deep into the 12's and over 400 hp with the stock coil, stock ignition.
i am in the process of doing exactly that right now...I am running a blower so if it's the box i'll have to send it in for repair (if it's reapairable).
GUILTY!!
I haven't determined if its the actual box or wiring related to it. I've removed it and wired the factory ignition and the car starts now everytime. The sporadic nature of the problem combined with the excessive use of spliced connections I found while removing the box has me leaning toward the wiring itself being the problem, not the box. I'm going to reinstall it with good connections all around and see how it works. The car does run noticeably a little less smooth without the box and not having the rev limiter is a big no-no. I'm just happy I found the problem and can drive the car if I want to now until I get this all sorted out. Thanks to all for the help w the diagnostics.
I haven't determined if its the actual box or wiring related to it. I've removed it and wired the factory ignition and the car starts now everytime. The sporadic nature of the problem combined with the excessive use of spliced connections I found while removing the box has me leaning toward the wiring itself being the problem, not the box. I'm going to reinstall it with good connections all around and see how it works. The car does run noticeably a little less smooth without the box and not having the rev limiter is a big no-no. I'm just happy I found the problem and can drive the car if I want to now until I get this all sorted out. Thanks to all for the help w the diagnostics.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
GUILTY!!
I haven't determined if its the actual box or wiring related to it. I've removed it and wired the factory ignition and the car starts now everytime. The sporadic nature of the problem combined with the excessive use of spliced connections I found while removing the box has me leaning toward the wiring itself being the problem, not the box. I'm going to reinstall it with good connections all around and see how it works. The car does run noticeably a little less smooth without the box and not having the rev limiter is a big no-no. I'm just happy I found the problem and can drive the car if I want to now until I get this all sorted out. Thanks to all for the help w the diagnostics.
Just as I thought. IMO chalk it up to another Multiple Spark Disaster box. Leave it off for a few days and see how it runs. If you want to upgrade the ignition, I would consider a Crane digital box over anything MSD.
What are you using or a BTM? If it was hooked up to the MSD, lay off the boost until you get it sorted out.
lxman
Member
My 86 did this same thing and I checked all the stuff these guys are saying and come to find out the fuel pump module inside the ECM/computer fried. So it only worked after everything had cooled down for a long freaking time.
mine ended up being the msd box, or the wiring that is related to it. I removed it from the car and ordered a fresh harness to rewire everything. previous owner had it installed and whoever did it should be embarrassed. when i have extra $$$ I will upgrade to a crane system.
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