You could also use a 1057 or 194 bulb with some test leads soldered or crimped on to it if you cant get to a store.
Follow the checklist closely and you will find the problem.
Pull the SPOUT connector out and see if you get spark.
Then beg buy or borrow a noid light to test the injectors for pulse..
Pulled the spout connector and checked for spark as outlined in the diagnostic. No spark with or without the spout connector.Follow the checklist closely and you will find the problem.
Pull the SPOUT connector out and see if you get spark.
Then beg buy or borrow a noid light to test the injectors for pulse..
I am guessing 6al or a btm ? there is a diagnostic on msd site to ground one of the wires and if it sparks it's good , gotta look on the website I had to do it when I was getting my friends 468 Chevy running in his notch because of course first crank is never a charmPulled the spout connector and checked for spark as outlined in the diagnostic. No spark with or without the spout connector.
The next thing on the list for me to check is the msd box. What's the best way to check it?
Yes it's a 6al. I'm going to their site now to look for diagnostic. Thanks!I am guessing 6al or a btm ? there is a diagnostic on msd site to ground one of the wires and if it sparks it's good , gotta look on the website I had to do it when I was getting my friends 468 Chevy running in his notch because of course first crank is never a charm
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers
car has a fuel pressure gauge. fp is good to gocheck your FP. ive had fuel pumps do this before.
Pulled the spout connector and checked for spark as outlined in the diagnostic. No spark with or without the spout connector.
The next thing on the list for me to check is the msd box. What's the best way to check it?
You could also use a 1057 or 194 bulb with some test leads soldered or crimped on to it if you cant get to a store.
Not the best approach: the injector pulse is very narrow when compared to the pulse required to get visible light from an incandescent light bulb. If you want to cheap out, then get a 12 volt LED from Radio Shack.
Noid light substitute:
RadioShack® 12V/20mA 4mm Red LED with Holder
Model: 276-270(A) | Catalog #: 276-270 $2.19
none of my local autozone or napa stores had a noid light in stock. i made one using a 194 bulb. the bulb flashed so the pip is good. i only get one start out of the car each day. it idles and runs great. after that one start, there is no spark.You could also use a 1057 or 194 bulb with some test leads soldered or crimped on to it if you cant get to a store.
...just a little update..
...just a little update..
this morning i went outside and first thing performed the msd spark check. I got strong spark. Then i got in the car and reset the ignition (clicked it to OFF then back to ON) and performed the identical spark test for the msd box again. this time NO spark...literally 10 seconds after seeing spark on the previous test! still working thru the checklist as time allows.
i am in the process of doing exactly that right now...I am running a blower so if it's the box i'll have to send it in for repair (if it's reapairable).Try this. Unplug and bypass the damn MSD-May Spark Discharge- box from the ignition, It should be attached with the female/male harness and plug the factory harness back into the factory coil harness. See if the car starts and runs fine then.
There is a reason you see so many of those crappy MSD boxes for sale.It is not a question of if they will fail but WHEN. IMO there is no reason a N/A car needs that. I've run deep into the 12's and over 400 hp with the stock coil, stock ignition.
GUILTY!!
I haven't determined if its the actual box or wiring related to it. I've removed it and wired the factory ignition and the car starts now everytime. The sporadic nature of the problem combined with the excessive use of spliced connections I found while removing the box has me leaning toward the wiring itself being the problem, not the box. I'm going to reinstall it with good connections all around and see how it works. The car does run noticeably a little less smooth without the box and not having the rev limiter is a big no-no. I'm just happy I found the problem and can drive the car if I want to now until I get this all sorted out. Thanks to all for the help w the diagnostics.
mine ended up being the msd box, or the wiring that is related to it. I removed it from the car and ordered a fresh harness to rewire everything. previous owner had it installed and whoever did it should be embarrassed. when i have extra $$$ I will upgrade to a crane system.My 86 did this same thing and I checked all the stuff these guys are saying and come to find out the fuel pump module inside the ECM/computer fried. So it only worked after everything had cooled down for a long freaking time.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?