Car wont start: used some of the check list already

[N8Miller]

heres how it happened:
for the last 2-3 weeks, i would go out every few days and let it run for about 10-15 minutes in anticipation of getting it out. well, last thursday night, i started it, went back inside to put in some laundry, came back out and it was off. I thought it just stalled, but that wasnt the case. I tried to restart it, but nadda.
The low fuel light has been on since i parked it in November, so i thought i ran it out of gas, but i put in 4 gallons and it wont start.

heres some of the things i accomplished from the checklist:
starter seliniod has 12 volts wtih key on
fat blue spark when you cross the starter selinoid.
12 volts at the red/green stripe wire on the coil with key on
had the TFI module on the dist checked at advance auto, good on both tests.

but, with they key on, i check the wire from the coil to dist, it has no power with key on. i also tried to disconnect the MSD 6al and go back to stock ignition, but it made no difference!

what givs?

edit: fuel pump primes everytime too.

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

Is it cranking or is it not?

Your fuel pump primes but is it delivering pressure.

Are you getting any spark in your ignition.

Basic 3 things you need.

If you have no spark it can be the stator in the distributor... Bad coil wiring(or Coil)... Bad Ignition Module... or wires.

If you have no fuel, check the pressure at the rails. Your pump may be priming but maybe it failed after you ran out of gas ... if you did.

If your not cranking at all thats an entirely different circuit. It could be the wiring to your starter or something smaller like your neutral safety switch.

Please be more specific to what problem you are actually having...

 

[TenorPlayinGuy]

Also... there wont be ANY power in the secondary ignition (spark plug wires) until the field collapses in the coil. So unless your motor is running you wont get any surges in that wire. And if you do... I wouldn't recommend it since you could easily fry a meter that way

 

[HISSIN50]

Due to the ambiguity, I'd simply start at the top of the checklist. It will be way quicker and easier to run down the applicable parts of the list than going back and forth with things on this thread.

Good luck

 

[N8Miller]

sorry, its cranking, but not starting. i did start at the top of the list. after i prime the fuel pump, the FP gauge shows a low 30ish PSI.

how can i check for a bad coil?

how exactly do i check for spark?

 

[jrichker]

From the Cranks OK, but No Start Checklist for Fuel Injected Mustangs"

1.) Remove push on connector from starter solenoid and turn ignition switch on. Place car in neutral or Park and set the parking brake. Remove the coil wire from distributor & and hold it 3/8” away from the engine block. Jumper the screw to the big bolt on the starter solenoid that has the battery wire connected to it. You should get a nice fat blue spark.

Work through the checklist item by item. Read it through and then print it out. Do each step one item at a time: do not jump around. Follow this plan and you will find and fix the problem faster and cheaper than any other way.

 

[N8Miller]

thanks, guys.
i checked for that blue spark.. its there!

the only reason that i skipped around was that some of the items werent available at the time.

EDIT: what might be the most probable cause knowing that it was running... then just shut off?

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is less than $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/p-7208-equus-digital-ford-code-reader-3145.aspx– It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.

 

[N8Miller]

used a tester to see if there was spark.... none!

running the codes after work!