car won't start

No Crank checklist for 5.0 Mustangs

Since some of the tests will bypass the safety interlocks, make sure that the car is in neutral and the parking brake is set. Becoming a pancake isn’t part of the repair process…

Check battery, terminal connections, ground, starter relay switch (also known as solenoid) and starter in that order. The clamp on with 2 bolts battery terminal ends are a know problem causer.

A voltmeter is handy if you are familiar with how to use it to find bad connections. Measure the voltage drop across a connection while trying to start the car: more than .5 volts across a connection indicates a problem.
See http://www.fluke.com/application_notes/automotive/circuit.asp?AGID=1&SID=103 for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across grounds.


1.) Will the car start if it is jumped? Then clean battery terminals and check battery.

2.) Check the battery to engine block ground, and the ground behind the engine to the firewall.

3.) Jump the big terminals on the starter relay next to the battery with a screwdriver - watch out for the sparks! If the engine cranks, the starter and power wiring is good. The starter relay is also known as a starter solenoid.

4.) Then pull the small push on connector (small red/blue wire) off the starter solenoid (Looks like it is stuck on a screw). Then jump between the screw and the terminal that is connected to the battery. If it starts, the relay is good and your problem is in the rest of the circuit.

5.) Remember to check the ignition switch, neutral safety switch on auto trans and the clutch safety switch on manual trans cars. If they are good, then you have wiring problems.
Typical start circuit...
Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds


See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195963.gif for 88-90 year cars
See http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/gif/large/0900823d80195964.gif for 91-93 year cars.
See http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-95 model cars.

6.) The starter may be hung, loosen up the bolts that hold it on, and give it a good whack with a big hammer. Tighten up the bolts and try again.

7.) Pull the starter and take it to Autozone or Pep Boys and have them test it. Starter fails test, then replace it. If you got this far, the starter is probably bad.

The battery ground for the engine needs to go on the boss cast into the engine block. The boss is located up by the oil filter and uses a short 3/8" bolt.

It is not a good idea to use the timing cover for a ground location since the bolts for the timing cover/water pump tend to corrode. Corrosion makes poor connections.

is your starter bound up?

Clarification:

Do you have any functional accessories right now? For instance, does the dome light work? Headlights?

If you have no spark, are you sure you are able to build fuel pressure? With an issue like yours, you generally have both or neither.

Go back over JR's checklist. In a pinch I've used jumper cables to augment existing cables. When you parallel a given cable and the car cranks, the cable being paralleled is deficient.

I would almost start over and re-run the list. It will save time in the end.

Good luck.

Well i had this problem. I cranked the car with the dist. not in. Doing that my timing was out of wack. The car would crank and just die. My buddy came over and did the timing, it then started right up.

Check the ground using the voltage drop method I previously posted. Excessive voltage drop would cause the starter to crank slowly and draw more current. That extra current draw would make the starter overheat.

if its a mini starter its wired differently--just food for thought

Starter solenoid wiring with a Mini starter or 92-93 5.0 Mustang