car won't start

shrbrt

New Member
Jun 4, 2006
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I've gone the the jrichter list numerous times and my car still won't start. What I've noticed is that I don't have any oil pressure while it's cranking. I went to autozone and rented an oil pump priming tool and if I prime the pump, it'll go up to 55psi, but as soon as I stop and put the distributor back in, it's back to 0psi. does anybody know what could be causing this?
 
i ran into a problem on my 5.0 and i hooked up a manual oil pres guage right where the sending unit went ....mine would pump up lifter and had minimal compression....just for thought.....
 
I used a noid light and the injectors are working, spark at coil, after distributor, and at each plug, changed plugs, replaced pip and tfi module. have new gas in tank, with a new fuel filter, have 40 psi at the rail, disconnected the rail to see if fuel flows through it and it does. have 2 a9l computers and no difference. have a crane hi-6 box, disconnected that. also have the crane coil and a msd coil no difference on either one. adjust all my valves numerous times. checked to see if I was 180 out and I'm not. have 12volts at injectors, coil, ignition switch. checked all grounds. tried starter fluid and nothing happens. have a new cap and rotor in the distributor. the tps checks out ok. the only thing I haven't changed were the wires which I don't think is an issue, and I can't get my compression guage to fit on my p heads so I have to go rent a compression kit and see if it's got a longer adapter. I'm thinking it could be compression. but what I'm asking why I don't get oil pressure while I'm cranking the engine?
 
If you have an electric gauge, does it receive power while cranking? Many of your accessory power sources are not hot while cranking. When things are normal, you don't notice or care.
 
Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole,
crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer
on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor
to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block,
(you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing.
If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards
or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor,
but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that if it doesn't
align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too
far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light and start the engine. Set the timing where your car
runs best. Don't forget to disconnect the SPOUT jumper connector when you set the timing, and plug it back
in when you finish.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

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