Carb or EFI part II

TrickFlow

Member

Jan 20, 2003

340

0

16

Bossier City, La

May 25, 2005

#1

• May 25, 2005

• #1

My original post was lost in the stangnet crash im guessing since it has dissapeared. Im pretty sure I decided to go with a carb, and i need anyone that has done it to give me some insight on what wires i can eliminate.... or more so, which ones do i have to keep for headlights, etc etc etc..... this will help me finally determine if im keeping EFI or goin to a carb. Thanks in advance!

P.S. I wont be throwing the harness away just in case i decide to go back to EFI a few years from now


Mods as listed:


-Block Bored and honed to 306
-Resized rods
-Trickflow 10:1 forged pistons
-Polished crank
-All new bearings
-Trickflow Track Heat Heads
-Trickflow 6.700 pushrods
-Trickflow stage II cam ( duration 224*/232* lift .542"/.563")
-FMS lifters
-Hooker 1 5/8 Longtubes
-Rest of exhaust to be determined

 

NosPony

New Member

Apr 2, 2004

278

0

0

Canton, Il

May 25, 2005

#2

• May 25, 2005

• #2

When u pull out your efi harness all of the wiring will be gone. I went to a carb and will never regret it. Just need to get that holley tuned better(another story though).

 

T

tjm73

Founding Member

Aug 3, 2000

2,418

2

48

Rush, NY

May 25, 2005

#3

• May 25, 2005

• #3

The engine harness and related wiring is seperate from the lighting electrical wiring.

 

TrickFlow

Member

Jan 20, 2003

340

0

16

Bossier City, La

May 25, 2005

#4

• May 25, 2005

• #4

Awesome, so i can yank the main engine harness totally out... so in reality, i should be able to unplug it from the computer, and go on my way, right? theres a bunch of wires on the master cylinder side that i dont remember wtf are for, im hopin thats all part of the main harness as well? and is it easier to pull out the harness thru the engine side, or from under the dash, im pretty sure youll say thru the engine side, but id rather ask a dumb question then kick myself later for not asking.

 

TrickFlow

Member

Jan 20, 2003

340

0

16

Bossier City, La

May 25, 2005

#5

• May 25, 2005

• #5

Oh, and is there anything in the efi harness i need to keep to ensure all of my gauges work?

 

NosPony

New Member

Apr 2, 2004

278

0

0

Canton, Il

May 25, 2005

#6

• May 25, 2005

• #6

Once you pull the computer all your gages wont work except speedo and volt. That is how my 89 is.

You can rewire them to work but it is very involving. Get a haynes or equivelant book to help u with wiring. I personally just put autometer gauges in.

 

NosPony

New Member

Apr 2, 2004

278

0

0

Canton, Il

May 25, 2005

#7

• May 25, 2005

• #7

Also, there will be a clump of wires on the drivers side i just put them through the hole in the side of the engine compartment and hide them there. You cant even see them.

 

TrickFlow

Member

Jan 20, 2003

340

0

16

Bossier City, La

May 25, 2005

#8

• May 25, 2005

• #8

So is there a way i can pull the main harness, but keep whats needed for gauges? my eclipse has gauge problems and it drives me damn nuts.

 

Killer50stang

New Member

May 11, 2004

632

0

0

May 25, 2005

#9

• May 25, 2005

• #9

NosPony said:

When u pull out your efi harness all of the wiring will be gone. I went to a carb and will never regret it. Just need to get that holley tuned better(another story though).

Click to expand...

I've done this swap. My problem was I hacked the harness at the engine bay and had issue later with battery charging, and my lights didn't work. How did you do yours? Other than that, EFI sucks. Carb is way better.

 

TrickFlow

Member

Jan 20, 2003

340

0

16

Bossier City, La

May 26, 2005

#10

• May 26, 2005

• #10

im thinkin that i should just do it wire by wire. i dont want to have charging issues and lose all of my gauges, so imma have to become a wire schematic guru

 

T

TbonesBlack92GT

New Member

Apr 19, 2005

25

0

0

May 26, 2005

#11

• May 26, 2005

• #11

I left the harness in tact. I added a fuel pressure regulator with a bypass for the return line so that I could lower the fuel pressure to 7 psi for my Holley. I then had to ground the fuel pump relay so that the pump would work and installed a hidden switch so that I could shut it off if I wanted to (security feature). Check out autozone.com for an electrical diagrams, I found it very helpful. This site is also helpful: http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/efi-carb/efi-carb.htm

I love the carb set-up over the EFI especially since you can make lots of power for a lot less money. $100 mods in an EFI motor doesn't do much, but can in a carbed motor. I bought my 650 double pumper for $150 used and added a $35 trick kit. For an EFI motor, I would have had to buy a larger throttle body, MAF sensor, injectors, etc.... to achieve the flow/power I have with the 650 double pumper.

No regrets and no looking back

 

B

Boss 351

Here sthhhhhhhheeeve take a picthh of my man flowe

Jul 13, 2003

2,433

23

48

Canada

May 26, 2005

#12

• May 26, 2005

• #12

But still keep all the EFI stuff in a plastic box in case they pass some strict emission laws in your area. You'll only need to wire the Duraspark box, other than that carefully remove the passenger side harness and store it. Don't cut into it for crappy guages. Buy some good Autometer oil and temp guages and shove them into the middle vents.