It is listed in the current
summit racing catalogue. I don't have one handy right now but I will post details
tomorrow.
EFI to carb or keep EFI?
- Thread starter odsysean
- Start date
summit racing catalogue. I don't have one handy right now but I will post details
tomorrow.
ratio411
Founding Member
Don't get me wrong... I LOVE carbs.
If fuel was cheap, I'd be running them on everything.
There is something to be said for EFI though.
I am relatively new to it, but it is fun trying to figure it out, and yes, very frustrating at times.
Some of you guys that grew up later than I did, and put in time learning EFI while I was still messing with carbs have a huge advantage.
I am trying to catch up though.
If fuel was cheap, I'd be running them on everything.
There is something to be said for EFI though.
I am relatively new to it, but it is fun trying to figure it out, and yes, very frustrating at times.
Some of you guys that grew up later than I did, and put in time learning EFI while I was still messing with carbs have a huge advantage.
I am trying to catch up though.
summit street& strip carb
600 cfm $233 Pt# m08600vs ,750 cfm $251 Pt# mo8750vs, Holley 600 cfm $265
Pt # HLY-O-1850 4160 series. Intake, summit racing dual plane $159 Pt # sum-226033 , Weiand Stealth $175 Pt # WND-8020, Edelbrock performer $174
Pt # EDL 2121.
ratio411
Founding Member
Just a heads up on the "Summit" intakes...
I don't know if they still have issues, but I have seen on the boards and in person, some REALLY messed up intakes, right out of the box!
I wouldn't buy a Summit brand intake with someone else's money!
I saw one where the bolt holes weren't cast in a straight line, and of course they didn't line up to the heads.
Another had the ports misaligned from one another! Looked like they were doing the "wave".
Just pay the extra $$ for a Stealth and be done with it.
Very high quality.
Don't worry with the left over Holley design that Summit recreated either.
Just get a real Holley, and make it a Street Avenger if you don't want to have to do much to it.
Lol my only problem is that i need a wire harness which i will not buy 25 year old copper even if my life depended on me; a brand new harness costs about 600... i have a stock intake setup off my 86 along with all brand new sensors. I need to buy cats as i don't have any, and i will also need an a9l which is 400 new. I want to find a nice set of heads that wont break the bank and i know of someone who has an e cam he'd sell to me for 100... idk if that cam is worth it though. i want to at least put down about 260-270... i dont know what setup would be the best though. the way i look at it is i need a harness ~ 600 and a pcm ~400 and the maf ~ 100? someone help me!!!!
ratio411
Founding Member
Computer isn't $400. You can get them from Adavance Auto for $99. Even less on Craigslist or board classifieds.
A really killer, plug n play harness is available from RJM. Yeah, its $495, but worth every penny IMO.
A little better than your $600 estimate, but not by a whole lot.
http://www.rjminjectiontech.com/collections/50l-efi-harnesses/products/50-universal-harness
Why would you need to buy cats?
If you live in a state with emissions inspection, you won't get by without them no matter what, and you won't even pass visual inspection with a carb if your car came injected, before they even get to the sniffer... You have a 'catch 22' there.
If you don't need them for inspection, then you certainly don't need them for EFI. ???
See if you can make a deal with this guy.....
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/performance-efi-setup-from-93-fox.866965/
ratio411
Founding Member
Is it new or used? Used is okay, but I see them "new", as in second hand but unused, for $100 quite frequently. We got a new E for $100, and a new Z for $80 through second hand sources. (Swap meets, Craigslist, board classifieds, etc...)
A used cam in good shape should go for less it seems to me... Especially considering there are better cams out there.
Again, shop around, and you might even get a stock one given to you. I'd give you one if you swung by my shop to pick it up, but I figure that isn't happening.
Get the SN95 style from a Ford at a U-pull yard for $10-15... They are much better than the stock 89-93 MAFs.
I forgot all the cars that have the SN MAF that will retrofit to a Fox, but there are several, mostly common passenger cars.
ratio411
Founding Member
Check it out...
Brand new B cam (nearly the same as an E), for $50, and he doesn't want to ship.
He is in Maryland... I know you are in PA, but I don't know if you are close enough to drive, but if you are, that's a good deal.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/foxbody-5-0-b303-cam.866967/
Brand new B cam (nearly the same as an E), for $50, and he doesn't want to ship.
He is in Maryland... I know you are in PA, but I don't know if you are close enough to drive, but if you are, that's a good deal.
http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/foxbody-5-0-b303-cam.866967/
Here's the list...
94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2
Once your replacement 70MM MAF is in place, disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes. When you reconnect the battery and start the engine, the computer will relearn the settings for the new MAF.
*1.) Metal flange adapter http://www.kustomz.com/cat3.html Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.
*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
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