Carb, timing, or too much fuel??? Roush engine

[diverdaveman]

I have a brand new Roush crate engine that has not over 65 miles, granted I’ve had it running more in the shop than on the road. The problem is that I’m seeing smoke out of the exhaust. It appears to be blue/black, but not the really blue smoke you would see if it was oil. I’m thinking its more gas than anything else.

Here is my setup and a little history: It’s a 351W board to 427 cubic inches. I installed the engine with no problem. Roush did dyno the engine, so I know it was good. I had to remove the distributor to install a 90 degree heater hose adapter. I did mark the outside of the distributor, but failed to take not where the rotor was. I put it back where I thought it should go. I called Roush, and they said the timing should be between 30-35. I must have got it right because it run the smoothest at those numbers. I have an electric Holley fuel pump with a regulator. I’m sure that Roush dynoed it with a mechanical fuel pump. Also, it does seem like there is not the same power as when I first got it. This could be my imagination since I’m having this issue.

Could someone give me some insight on what could be causing the smoke? I’m sorry this is so long, but the more information you guys have the better.

Thanks,
Dave

 

[302 coupe]

Since you changed fuel pumps, be sure the fuel pressure is at about 6 psi. You also need to learn how to properly set the timing, I'm pretty sure that might be the source of your problem. Its described in detail in every early model ford manual, and has been discussed here many times. But then again, if you can afford a roush crate motor, you might as well just take it somewhere and have it dyno tuned by a pro.

 

[diverdaveman]

I do have a pressure guage on the regulator. I did back it down to about 1psi with the same outcome. Timing is not my best talent. In fact, I hate setting timing, but I try.

As far as money, I can't afford to take it somewhere now - with the new Roush engine. ;-)

I also get the "Run-on" effect after the engine is good and warm/hot.

 

[302 coupe]

run-on could be an indicator of timing too far advanced. Base timing should be about 10-14 degrees (usually), then go up to 35 or so at 3000 rpm. Does the distributor have vacuum advance, or is it all mechanical?

Overall, how do you like the engine?

 

[diverdaveman]

Overall the engine is great. It grunts!!! It dynoed at 538hp and 524torqe. It is beefy!!!

It's an MSD distributor with MSD ignition - no vacuum advance.

One more question - what if I got the distributor off by one tooth when I replaced it. Could I ajust with timing or should it be on the correct tooth?

Thanks,

 

[SoCalCruising]

You can usually adjust with timing (turning distributor)unless you reach the limit of the available adjustment.

Try this, if you don't have a timing light: Warm up the engine, turn the distributor counterclockwise in small increments and note if idle speed increases. If it does, keep turning until you find max idle speed. Then back off (turn clockwise) slightly. If idle speed does not increase when turning counterclockwise, try clockwise until you find it. Then get it to someone with a timing lightbecause doing it by idle speed is just roughing it in.

If counterclockwise does it, you were retarded (your engine, not you ). If clockwise, too advanced.

When I did this, I had about 25* total timing when checked later with a light. Once Igot it to 36* total, it ran much, much better than at 25* total.