Cars vibrating, can it be my driveshaft or do I need to look elsewere?

[1TRIKGT]

My stang was vibrating before once I hit about 85-90 threw the shifter, but now its started to vibrate down at 70+ do you think its just my driveshaft or do I need to look into my tranny or rearend. Also Iv started hearing a wierd noise coming from under the car near the center console, but its intermitent and only when im on the gas any ideas? Clutch,driveshaft, tranny...
Thanx,
Jose

 

[95opal]

check out the shaft the u-joints,tranny mount, and balancer, got to be one of them. good luck

 

[CManT1914]

A not so obvious thing to check nobody mentions is your exhaust. Make sure your mufflers and pipes are not rubbing anywhere. With my old flowmaster setup, the passenger side one was rubbing the driveshaft and making a bad vibration between 60 and 70.

 

[iskwezm]

make sure your wheels didnt lose any weights, a drivetrain might give a droan as it vibrates,wheel vibration would be felt either the seat or the steering wheel.

 

[VibrantRedGT]

If it's only vibrating up in the 65+ area it's most likely the driveshaft. I'm suprised many people still have the stock one. Mine went bye bye at 9000 miles. The aluminum knocked off 12lbs too. If you have a vibration all the time (not under load either) then it's a balancer.

 

[1TRIKGT]

thanx Im looking for an aluminum driveshaft right now hopefully I can find one soon

 

[HISSIN50]

I would want to check your U-joints and other related items. If the U-joints (one or the other) are bad, it will create a real wicked imbalance (excessive DS runout).

Were the gears recently done? Vibes under load can be improper backlash.

Otherwise, as Joe said, an alum $$ DS might be the fix. It sucks to buy a new expensive part to have it not fix the issue though.

Good luck.

 

[94-302-vert]

I tried to not spend the $$ on a DS too, ended up getting a free one and paying the shipping only to realize that it was the d/s (I knew the free one was bad so i was jsut looking for it to change the charateristics i was worried about).

the other alternative is to get your steel one rebuilt (new u-joints and balance). that should run about $100 or so from what I have heard. the problem with that is that if it is the slip connector into teh transmission they you will still have the problem...

 

[95COBRA241]

the other alternative is to get your steel one rebuilt (new u-joints and balance). that should run about $100 or so from what I have heard. the problem with that is that if it is the slip connector into teh transmission they you will still have the problem...

IMO the difference in performance and weight savings of an aluminum drive shaft for out weighs the difference in cost between a new aluminum and rebuilding your factory steel. I got my aluminum on sale for $229 compared to $150 to have steel on rebuilt.

 

[94-302-vert]

I agree as well, I went aluminum. but for those on a tighter budget the extra $80 or so may be hard to come across...