Sooooooo. I bought the Eibach pro system plus for upgrade suspension. Ripped everything out. Ended up ordering new control arms and quad shocks. Along with tie rods. Yea, the typical simple suspension upgrade lol. Anyway I ordered the SVE camber caster plates because they are shiny I guess. And now Im ready to put struts on the front and springs. Buuuuutttttt... I have no idea how to do any alignment. Is there any kind of help anyone can give me? I would like to get it driveable to the alignment shop if possible.
Caster Camber Plates... Help?
- Thread starter billbosc
- Start date
Here's how I did it.
Put a piece of masking take on the edge of your fender near your struts. Put a mark on that tape and then measure from the center of the strut to that mark on the tape and write the measurement on the tape.
Next, put a piece of masking tape on the firewall. Now measure from the center of the struts back to the firewall at your masking tape. Write the measurements on the tape.
Measure drivers side and passenger side separately.
Now you know exactly where the center of the top of your both struts are sitting. Once you get your new plates installed adjust your strut tops back to your original dimensions.
There Ya go! good Luck
Put a piece of masking take on the edge of your fender near your struts. Put a mark on that tape and then measure from the center of the strut to that mark on the tape and write the measurement on the tape.
Next, put a piece of masking tape on the firewall. Now measure from the center of the struts back to the firewall at your masking tape. Write the measurements on the tape.
Measure drivers side and passenger side separately.
Now you know exactly where the center of the top of your both struts are sitting. Once you get your new plates installed adjust your strut tops back to your original dimensions.
There Ya go! good Luck
I think he already removed everything and now needs to know how to do it from scratch.
I believe you just want to get your front tires pointed as straight forward as possible and be vertical when the full weight of the vehicle is resting on the ground. That should be good enough for a short trip to the alignment shop. Use a measuring tape to measure how far apart your front right and front left tires are apart in front of the tires, then do the backs of the tires and try to get them to be equal.
I believe you just want to get your front tires pointed as straight forward as possible and be vertical when the full weight of the vehicle is resting on the ground. That should be good enough for a short trip to the alignment shop. Use a measuring tape to measure how far apart your front right and front left tires are apart in front of the tires, then do the backs of the tires and try to get them to be equal.
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I wrote this before smartphones and angle-finder apps were so popular, so it's actually even easier now. But the car needs to be on the ground or the wheels need to be at static ride height somehow.
How to do your own alignments, low cost, effective. - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
How to do your own alignments, low cost, effective. - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
Before I give you a reco, you need to know that these cars need some negative camber in order to keep the tires from wearing the outside edges during any spirited cornering. This is even more true when the car is lowered, because the outside tire will gain less negative camber as its strut compresses than it would if it were at factory height.
The problem is, everybody and their brother will try to scare you away from negative camber because they say it causes the inner edges of the tire to wear. This marginally true, but nothing you're going to notice in 20,000 miles. The real tire killer is improper toe setting, or the inability of the suspension to keep the setting when the car is in motion (e.g. weak A-arm bushings). If the toe is wrong, it'll wear the tires in a hurry, and it'll concentrate that wear to the edges due to camber.
So, with all that said, set the car to 4-5 degrees positive caster (or as far back as you can get the plates and still get the camber you want), set the camber to at least 1.25 degrees negative. I prefer 1.5 to 1.75 for general street duty. I actually run 2.25 neg at all times during track season (8 months of the year) so I don't have to dick around changing it back and forth for the track.
The key is, I re-set the toe whenever I change the camber. So whenever you have your camber and caster set, then set the toe to absolutely zero if you have urethane or delrin A-arm bushings. If the bushings are rubber, give it 1/16th of an inch of toe-in, because the bushings will deflect when the car is rolling and bring the toe out closer to zero.
The problem is, everybody and their brother will try to scare you away from negative camber because they say it causes the inner edges of the tire to wear. This marginally true, but nothing you're going to notice in 20,000 miles. The real tire killer is improper toe setting, or the inability of the suspension to keep the setting when the car is in motion (e.g. weak A-arm bushings). If the toe is wrong, it'll wear the tires in a hurry, and it'll concentrate that wear to the edges due to camber.
So, with all that said, set the car to 4-5 degrees positive caster (or as far back as you can get the plates and still get the camber you want), set the camber to at least 1.25 degrees negative. I prefer 1.5 to 1.75 for general street duty. I actually run 2.25 neg at all times during track season (8 months of the year) so I don't have to dick around changing it back and forth for the track.
The key is, I re-set the toe whenever I change the camber. So whenever you have your camber and caster set, then set the toe to absolutely zero if you have urethane or delrin A-arm bushings. If the bushings are rubber, give it 1/16th of an inch of toe-in, because the bushings will deflect when the car is rolling and bring the toe out closer to zero.
I know an old thread but in your reply to him buying because they are shiny lol, for me it's between the SVE and J&M. I have J&M rear lower arms on the 94 and actually going to get their weight jacker arms to adjust the rear's height so i feel comfy bying their brand. If the Sve's are decent though I'll just go with those. Do you have an opinion on how good they are?LOL, we've all done it.
Yeah!
I will respond with an older thread and a caveat:
Thread:
Suspension - SVE Rear Lower Control Arms (RLCA)
I am posting this for anyone that has considered buying the SVE control arms on Latemodel or many other places. I have been doing a large build on my motor for the last 2 years and these RLCAs are not a very good product. When researching them I found they looked identical the MM RLCAs except...
stangnet.com
Caveat:
I don't have these control arms and their materials may have changed since that 2012 thread went live.
I will say this:
With the exception of one (MM) unit that arrived in unsatisfactory condition, I have heard zero complaints about MM control arms and zero complaints about Steeda control arms and bushings.
It doesn't mean I've heard complaints about all the others... L&M, BMR, are both good brands that a lot of dudes like them.
The SVE issues that I recall were things about bolts in the kit being to short and issues with bushings (most the non-greaseable type).
My opinion? MM or Steeda. They've been in the game forever and they improve on even their successes. Their failures have been few and far between. Both companies actually do R&D and don't just copy everybody else's
, modify it, and ship it just assuming that it works. In other words: These other companies play the averages and make money when their products happen to function as advertised for [most]. They assume that whomever they copied the product from, did the work.Cool thanks for the reply. Yeah there were a lot of reviews at LMR on the sve CC plates and they only negatives I saw were some that didn't come with enough washers in their situation of the strut being too short or something like that but there was no quality issue necessarily with them. Matter of fact I believe it was five stars on LMR and the reviews were about 73 I believe. So yeah I'm at I might take a chance on them but not the control arms. I have J&M arms on my car now that I've had for a number of years and I like them so I'm going to go with the weight jackets too lower the 94 some in the rear. And speech to text is stupid LOL
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