Ok guys I just recently put bassani catback and catted x pipe on my 03 gt. Installed about 2 weeks ago and hadnt had a problem. Thursday I took it to a shop to go everything tightened down and have a manifold bolt replaced. Everything was fine until yesterday Friday when my CEL came on. Error code reads P0153 which is 02 sensor/A couple other possible problems. Could the shop have screwed with something? What do you guys recommend checking? Thanks
CEL came on today
- Thread starter 03redgtstang
- Start date
I have heard a few times that even with a catted aftermarket pipe it still sets off the sensors and MIL eliminators still had to be used... I'd reccomend to check if the o2's are still connected and the wiring still intact (they could have out it too close to the pipe and it burned through the wire) if not, I'm sure it just is the fact that you changed to a better flowing pipe and some MIL eliminators may be in order...
I need more advice!!!! I got under and checked everything and no leaks, all clamps are tight and same with o2 sensor and dont look damaged or anything.
I took it to the shop Thursday because the manifold bolt was stripped and the nut wasnt tight on it (Drivers side), Therefore I needed them to replace it. Ok well everything is A-ok now they fixed that. The problem is Im still hearing the noise that I thought was the loose bolt before. I thought it was that becuase that is exactly what the noise sounds like. It only happens when I get to the drone zone (most vibration obviously) around 2k and it sounds like a washer vibrating around on a bolt/nut (High pitched chiming noise). What the heck is that? Im just thinking this could have something to do with the code being thrown. Also it just hit me I forgot I noticed a few days ago a fuse had been blown under the steering column but I didn't get a chance to check what it was for, as I didn't notice any immediate issue with electrical or anything. Could any of these 2 other problems have something to do with my CEL it or is it probably just the o2 sensors.
I took it to the shop Thursday because the manifold bolt was stripped and the nut wasnt tight on it (Drivers side), Therefore I needed them to replace it. Ok well everything is A-ok now they fixed that. The problem is Im still hearing the noise that I thought was the loose bolt before. I thought it was that becuase that is exactly what the noise sounds like. It only happens when I get to the drone zone (most vibration obviously) around 2k and it sounds like a washer vibrating around on a bolt/nut (High pitched chiming noise). What the heck is that? Im just thinking this could have something to do with the code being thrown. Also it just hit me I forgot I noticed a few days ago a fuse had been blown under the steering column but I didn't get a chance to check what it was for, as I didn't notice any immediate issue with electrical or anything. Could any of these 2 other problems have something to do with my CEL it or is it probably just the o2 sensors.
cjones
Founding Member
the code is for the upstream O2 so mil eliminators won't be needed.
do you still have the code?? an exhaust leak can cause the code P0153.
you should fix the blown fuse as soon as you can. with out knowing which fuse is blown it's anyones guess.
can you simulate the rattle if you tap on the exhaust??
do you still have the code?? an exhaust leak can cause the code P0153.
you should fix the blown fuse as soon as you can. with out knowing which fuse is blown it's anyones guess.
can you simulate the rattle if you tap on the exhaust??
Yeah I still got the code but it cant be an exhaust leak. I took it the the shop and not only did he tighten all bolts but also tac welded everything. I cant make the noise by tapping tapping on the exhaust its just a ringing noise how I described it when It gets to that rpm area. Its weird. And I dont even know which fuse was blown. I dont see anything wrong electrically so how do I know which one it is.
Oh and if its for the upstream o2 why does that mean I dont need mils. Couldn't it still be that I just need them to get rid of the light. Im not extremely knowledgable with all of this. All advice is appreciated thanks.
Oh and if its for the upstream o2 why does that mean I dont need mils. Couldn't it still be that I just need them to get rid of the light. Im not extremely knowledgable with all of this. All advice is appreciated thanks.
bullitt 736
Member
cjones
Founding Member
the owners manual and/or the repair manual should have a diagram of the fuse block.
compare it to yours and see which one is missing.
compare it to yours and see which one is missing.
cjones
Founding Member
unfortuatly my alldata only goes to 02 and does not show the fuse block, just the electrical diagrams.
http://www.helminc.com has owner and repair manuals. i had to use them for my stang and excursion.
http://www.helminc.com has owner and repair manuals. i had to use them for my stang and excursion.
ok guys, the CEL the last few days has been inconsisent. Sometimes its not on. I just drove home about 20 miles and it wasn't even on. It happened before but then came right back on the next time I started the car. It's not like when im driving i will see it turn on and off though not like flickering or anything. What does this mean? Does this rule out anything?
The reason there is no consistency to the light coming on is because this is an O2 monitor code. There are several on board diagnostic monitors that your PCM runs,these are seperate programs kinda like the programs that run on your home computer like a virus scan or disk defrag.
The monitors on your vehicle are Catalyst Efficiency Monitor, Comprehensive Component Monitor, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Leak Check Monitor, Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Monitor , Fuel System Monitor, Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Monitor, Misfire Detection Monitor, PCV System Monitor.
This code you have is set when the HO2S monitor runs.
The Fuel System Monitor and Misfire Detection Monitor must also have completed successfully before the HO2S Monitor is enabled. Input is required from the ECT or CHT, IAT, MAF and CKP sensors to activate the HO2S Monitor.
Once the HO2S Monitor is enabled, the HO2S signal voltage amplitude and response frequency are checked. Excessive voltage is determined by comparing the HO2S signal voltage to a maximum calibratable threshold voltage. A fixed frequency closed loop fuel control routine is executed and the HO2S voltage amplitude and output response frequency are observed. A sample of the HO2S signal is evaluated to determine if the sensor is capable of switching or has a slow response rate. A HO2S heater circuit fault is determined by turning the heater on and off and looking for a corresponding change in the Output State Monitor (OSM) and by measuring the current going through the heater circuit.
So basically what it is doing is, when it turns on it compares the switching rate of the O2 sensor with a program in memory to see if its response rate is ok. Then it does a second test where it turns on the heater ckt in the O2 and measures the current draw and compares it to memory. The MIL is activated after a fault is detected on two consecutive drive cycles. Now for a drive cycle to complete vehicle has to go thru engine warm up, driven at certain conditions, then engine cool down. This is why there is no pattern to your CEL coming on. Now the particular code P0153 is for a slow switching response rate from the bank 2 drivers side front O2 sensor. Now the following items could cause this Contaminated or Deteriorating HO2S sensor
Exhaust leaks
Shorted /open wiring
Improper fueling/injectors clogged, dripping, etc.
MAF sensor
Inlet air leaks
The monitors on your vehicle are Catalyst Efficiency Monitor, Comprehensive Component Monitor, Evaporative Emission (EVAP) Leak Check Monitor, Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) System Monitor , Fuel System Monitor, Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Monitor, Misfire Detection Monitor, PCV System Monitor.
This code you have is set when the HO2S monitor runs.
The Fuel System Monitor and Misfire Detection Monitor must also have completed successfully before the HO2S Monitor is enabled. Input is required from the ECT or CHT, IAT, MAF and CKP sensors to activate the HO2S Monitor.
Once the HO2S Monitor is enabled, the HO2S signal voltage amplitude and response frequency are checked. Excessive voltage is determined by comparing the HO2S signal voltage to a maximum calibratable threshold voltage. A fixed frequency closed loop fuel control routine is executed and the HO2S voltage amplitude and output response frequency are observed. A sample of the HO2S signal is evaluated to determine if the sensor is capable of switching or has a slow response rate. A HO2S heater circuit fault is determined by turning the heater on and off and looking for a corresponding change in the Output State Monitor (OSM) and by measuring the current going through the heater circuit.
So basically what it is doing is, when it turns on it compares the switching rate of the O2 sensor with a program in memory to see if its response rate is ok. Then it does a second test where it turns on the heater ckt in the O2 and measures the current draw and compares it to memory. The MIL is activated after a fault is detected on two consecutive drive cycles. Now for a drive cycle to complete vehicle has to go thru engine warm up, driven at certain conditions, then engine cool down. This is why there is no pattern to your CEL coming on. Now the particular code P0153 is for a slow switching response rate from the bank 2 drivers side front O2 sensor. Now the following items could cause this Contaminated or Deteriorating HO2S sensor
Exhaust leaks
Shorted /open wiring
Improper fueling/injectors clogged, dripping, etc.
MAF sensor
Inlet air leaks
Wow I feel like I just took a class, thanks for the info. My light hasn't been on in almost 2 days now and Ive driven it a faily good amount. Not to say im unhappy about it but am definetly still confused. Where do I start, I don't think I have a leak since the shop tac welded for me, o2's are connected and wires seem to look in good condition not burnt up. I can't believe I would suddenly have a injector problem, wouldn't even know where to begin with inlet leak. What do you recommend me doing? Im somewhat of a newbie and need a little direction. Im assuming it will come back on.
Ok man thanks for the advice and schooling me a bit. Ill look into it. BTW it did come back on today, 2 days later. I might give it a shot replacing that front drivers side one. Just kinda ironic because I probably did have a leak on that side, I take it to a shop get it all tightened down then a day or 2 later its throwin a code. Shoulda just left it loose! haha jp.
That might be my best bet actually just thinking about it, for all i know the shop screwed something up with the sensor even though they are very reputable. If i replace the sensor and that IS the problem will I need to get the computer reset to see if it is or will the light just go off since the problem is fixed.
That might be my best bet actually just thinking about it, for all i know the shop screwed something up with the sensor even though they are very reputable. If i replace the sensor and that IS the problem will I need to get the computer reset to see if it is or will the light just go off since the problem is fixed.
cjones
Founding Member
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