Ceramic coating necessary when buying headers?

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grey5.0beast said:
Why? I figured any peice that is quite strong will work. How much is it? I was thinking a BBK peice or FMS wouold do the job. :shrug:

They will over time tear, or crack the firewall. The firewall wasn't designed to withstand the stress of a STB.

Without Full Length Subframe Connectors the Firewall mounted STB (MAC/BBK/ect.) will cause stresses on the firewall that will warp the crap out of it.

The MM STB mounts to the pinch welds which are structurally more sound than the firewall.

Hold off on the STB until you have SFCs installed.

MM said:
The MM Strut Tower Brace will make your car's handling more stable and predictable by stiffening the front portion of the chassis. Our unique strut tower brace design provides a load path between the two individual strut towers and between each strut tower and the firewall. This keeps the strut towers from moving relative to each other. Flexing of the strut towers, both fore/aft and side-to-side, causes unpredictable handling because the flexing causes alignment changes and a lack of roll coupling. A MM Strut Tower Brace will prevent the alignment from changing during hard braking and cornering. An additional benefit of increased chassis rigidity from the strut tower brace is a reduction in firewall and dashboard vibration, metal fatigue, and noise. Ford finally recognized the benefits and started installing strut tower braces beginning with the 1994 models.

Unique Features of Maximum Motorsports Strut Tower Braces:

* Our main tubes are made of rigid 1-1/4" diameter DOM seamless tubing. This tubing is twice as stiff as the generally used 1" tubing, and DOM seamless tubing is 30% stiffer than the more commonly used ERW, seamed tubing.
* The firewall mounting point for the rear support tubes is the pinchweld that runs the width of the firewall. When attaching something to sheet metal, the best mounting point is at a joint or a corner, such as the pinchweld on the Mustang's firewall. The pinchweld on the firewall was formed by folding together three pieces of metal (the upper firewall, the lower firewall, and the floor of the cowl), and then welding them together. This provides an extremely stiff mounting point for our Strut Tower Brace.
* Nearly all other strut tower braces attach to the center of the firewall, its weakest and most flexible portion. Attaching there adds little stiffness, and leads to cracking and tearing of the firewall.
* On 5.0L engines, our Strut Tower Brace allows the use of all popular intake manifolds because no part of the brace passes over the top of the intake manifold.
* MM Strut Tower Braces are designed to allow the use of MM Caster/Camber plates.
* MM Strut Tower Braces are attached with high quality grade 5 hardware.

Source: http://www.maximummotorsports.com/
 
What happened to the s/c?

IMO buying bolts on is BS and a waste of money, id go big first then buy the little stuff to support it. Go out and get some gt40 heads or save up for some aluminums. Then buy the MAF, t/b, injectors, etc.

But if you must get something id say a 70mm t/b, and subframes? I wouldnt get an maf till you need bigger injectors. Im glad I havent bought an MAF cause im going with 24lbers when I can afford them and If I had bought a MAF for 19's id be pissed.
 
mob said:
Im glad I havent bought an MAF cause im going with 24lbers when I can afford them and If I had bought a MAF for 19's id be pissed.


Your not making enough power to need 24s, but a mass air meter would be a good addition even with 19s, they are quite easy to recalibrate (C&L) or just send to have recalibrated (PMAS). Dont waste your money on injectors.
 
K then I guess I can ask for money towards something bigger. The s/c, which I didn't realize, to make fit in the spot I wanted it to I had to beat in the strut tower, something I do not want to do. I don't want to cause permanent damage to my strut tower, just to upgrade to a different blower in the future. So I sold it to some retard kid for 100 bucks that thinks it can fit on his mercedes c230.
 
795.0pacecar said:
Your not making enough power to need 24s, but a mass air meter would be a good addition even with 19s, they are quite easy to recalibrate (C&L) or just send to have recalibrated (PMAS). Dont waste your money on injectors.
If hes going to need injectors later it cant hurt to get them now.
 
caseywan said:
Is Jet Hot Coating about the same thing as ceramic coating?? I heard that stuff is pretty good too.

Jet-Hot is a brand of ceramic coating, much like how Edelbrock is a brand of intake manifolds. They are probably the most well known. Another company worth looking at is High Performance Coatings (HPC). I had them coat a set of Hooker Super Comps and they came out gorgeous and still look amazing, it's like that episode of the simpsons where comic book guy demonstrates how pouring liquid on to a radioctive man comic the soda simply splashes harmlessly onto lesser comics. The HPC coating just doesn't want to get dirty, no matter how much I drive it, even down at the collectors.
 
795.0pacecar said:
Your not making enough power to need 24s, but a mass air meter would be a good addition even with 19s, they are quite easy to recalibrate (C&L) or just send to have recalibrated (PMAS). Dont waste your money on injectors.

Ah didnt know they could be recalibrated but, my car is starving, im going to get a fuel pump, fuel regulator, and t/b first, but my car is still choking.
 
I dont know what your going to be doing later, but injectors require you to take off the upper intake, so that would be the very last thing I would do. Your list of mods sounds good, just get a mass air meter too and I promise you wont be "choking" anymore. 19lb injectors can support 320hp, up the pressure alittle with a FPR and they can support more. I wouldn't upgrade to 24s unless I was making at least 280rwhp.
 
795.0pacecar said:
I dont know what your going to be doing later, but injectors require you to take off the upper intake, so that would be the very last thing I would do. Your list of mods sounds good, just get a mass air meter too and I promise you wont be "choking" anymore. 19lb injectors can support 320hp, up the pressure alittle with a FPR and they can support more. I wouldn't upgrade to 24s unless I was making at least 280rwhp.

ok, I plan on getting a dyno once I get it running where I want so I can see where im at, where im making power, etc. So ill do the t/b, MAF, AFPR, and fuel pump and i'll go from there.