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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Changed Diff Fluid, This Look Ok?

  • Thread starter Thread starter onefstsnake
  • Start date Start date Mar 5, 2006

onefstsnake

New Member
Nov 25, 2005
792
1
0
Northern VA
Mar 5, 2006
#1
  • Mar 5, 2006
  • #1
Well i changed the fluid out of my rear diff and man it smelled bad.

I managed to snap a few pics during the process. Everything looks good to me.

I also figured out I dont have 4.10 gears I have 3.73's
How can I read the stock gear tag? What numbers should I look for?






Bling Bling
 

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willys1

Active Member
Dec 2, 2003
1,004
1
36
New Jersey
Mar 5, 2006
#2
  • Mar 5, 2006
  • #2
How many miles were on the fluid? Yep,there 373's!
 

sgarlic

Founding Member
Apr 21, 2001
3,085
1
56
Mar 5, 2006
#3
  • Mar 5, 2006
  • #3
Dang dude that's a lot of rtv.
 

bill302

Active Member
Nov 2, 2005
2,131
1
46
alabama,gadsden
Mar 5, 2006
#4
  • Mar 5, 2006
  • #4
man, you have a sludge buildup in there i hope you cleaned it up a bit, i think i would run a couple thousand miles and change it again and see if i could remove some of the buildup in there. that bad smell was the friction modifier you did add new friction modifier did'nt you. and below are the codes that are located on the vehicle certification label follow instructions below.....i suspect your trying to find what gears were installed at factory or are you talking about tag on axle bolt if so looking at the tag with bolt hole to the right top left seq. of numbers and letters are plant code,bottom left is stock gear ratio, center bottom ring gear diameter in inches 8.8,bottom right build date year-month-year....


1= 2.87C
5= 3.27C
7= 3.07C
A= 3.08L
B= 2.47C
F=3.45C
K= 3.55L
ME= 3.27L
VM= 2.73L
Y= 3.08C
2= 3.55C
6= 3.73C
7= 8 2.73C
A= 3.63C
BM= 2.73L
E= 3.27L
HZ= 3.08L
LE= 3.27L
R= 3.45R
W= 3.73L
Z= 3.08L
4= 3.42C
68= 2.73C
8= 2.73C
AM= 2.73L
C= 3.27L
EZ= 3.08L
J = 3.85C
M= 2.73L
SE= 3.27L
X5= 3.27C
Z5= 3.27C

look at your vehicle certification label under where it says TR and match the 1st and/or 2nd number or letter where applicable to number or letter above to the left of the gear sizes and thats your gear size if its still stock the l and c to the right of the gear size represents L=limited-slip differential, C=conventional differential.
 

bill302

Active Member
Nov 2, 2005
2,131
1
46
alabama,gadsden
Mar 5, 2006
#5
  • Mar 5, 2006
  • #5
oh ya don't forget to change your signature to 3.73's
 

onefstsnake

New Member
Nov 25, 2005
792
1
0
Northern VA
Mar 5, 2006
#6
  • Mar 5, 2006
  • #6
Well here is the tag... Wasnt sure what all that code meant.


Gear wear looks very good. I didnt see any chips or uneven wear.

I dunno if there is alot of sludge in there or not. Might just be the casting.

And I know I went crazy with the RTV, but to it right once and never look back.

I added some Friction Modifier, plus the 80w90 i put in had some in it already.

EDIT: noone has said anything about my gold diff cover???
 

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Roland69

Sergeant Tangnet
Sep 17, 2005
2,867
2
58
Port Elgin, Ontario
Mar 5, 2006
#7
  • Mar 5, 2006
  • #7
gold diff cover looks good.
 

onefstsnake

New Member
Nov 25, 2005
792
1
0
Northern VA
Mar 5, 2006
#8
  • Mar 5, 2006
  • #8
Roland69 said:
gold diff cover looks good.
Click to expand...


I didnt have silver and I thought the gold looked pretty pimp. lol

Some mechanic is gunna be like WTF???
 

Roland69

Sergeant Tangnet
Sep 17, 2005
2,867
2
58
Port Elgin, Ontario
Mar 5, 2006
#9
  • Mar 5, 2006
  • #9
when in boubt black it out
 

Mike97gt

it doe snot
Founding Member
Jan 26, 1999
10,633
7
89
the people's republic of massachusetts
Mar 6, 2006
#10
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #10
looks fine in there. i like the gold diff cover
 

onefstsnake

New Member
Nov 25, 2005
792
1
0
Northern VA
Mar 6, 2006
#11
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #11
Im thinking about rebuilding/replacing the diff.

How hard would this be to do without a lift and air tools?
Ive never worked on a full size diff, but it doesnt seem too difficult.

Im used to working on these diffs. lol



 

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G

GREYFOX4INCH

Member
May 8, 2005
190
0
16
western MA
Mar 6, 2006
#12
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #12
what are those for?
 

onefstsnake

New Member
Nov 25, 2005
792
1
0
Northern VA
Mar 6, 2006
#13
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #13
This







 

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Roland69

Sergeant Tangnet
Sep 17, 2005
2,867
2
58
Port Elgin, Ontario
Mar 6, 2006
#14
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #14
those are awsome how much is yours worth
 

bill302

Active Member
Nov 2, 2005
2,131
1
46
alabama,gadsden
Mar 6, 2006
#15
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #15
onefstsnake said:
Well here is the tag... Wasnt sure what all that code meant.


Gear wear looks very good. I didnt see any chips or uneven wear.

I dunno if there is alot of sludge in there or not. Might just be the casting.

And I know I went crazy with the RTV, but to it right once and never look back.

I added some Friction Modifier, plus the 80w90 i put in had some in it already.

EDIT: noone has said anything about my gold diff cover???
Click to expand...





ok this is what i know---the S215C is the manufacturing plant code don't know which plant it stands for but if i find out i will let you know... the 2L73 stands for factory installed 2.73 gears with a Traction- Lok. 8.8 is the ring gear size.. and 2J22 is the build date 2=year,J=month,22=day and thats all i know....
 

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bill302

Active Member
Nov 2, 2005
2,131
1
46
alabama,gadsden
Mar 6, 2006
#16
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #16
bill302 said:
ok this is what i know---the S215C is the manufacturing plant code don't know which plant it stands for but if i find out i will let you know... the 2L73 stands for factory installed 2.73 gears with a Traction- Lok. 8.8 is the ring gear size.. and 2J22 is the build date 2=year,J=month,22=day and thats all i know....
Click to expand...

found some more info---the date code 2J22 means your axle was built on 2=1992---J=10---and 22 means 22nd day of the month.. your axle was built on october 22,1992. good useless info. here.....
 

bill302

Active Member
Nov 2, 2005
2,131
1
46
alabama,gadsden
Mar 6, 2006
#17
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #17
bill302 said:
found some more info---the date code 2J22 means your axle was built on 2=1992---J=10---and 22 means 22nd day of the month.. your axle was built on october 22,1992. good useless info. here.....
Click to expand...


and heres the rest S = Sterling differential is the manufacturer,215 = Model number,c = Revision identifier. S215C
 

timewarped1972

Member
Jun 17, 2004
642
0
16
mesa, az
Mar 6, 2006
#18
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #18
onefstsnake said:
Im thinking about rebuilding/replacing the diff.

How hard would this be to do without a lift and air tools?
Ive never worked on a full size diff, but it doesnt seem too difficult.

Im used to working on these diffs. lol


if you can do that you could do one in your car. not having a lift isn't a problem but you may want air tools but it can be done with out, and you'll want a torque wrench and all the basic stuff.........

those cars are awesome........i've always wanted to get one of those........(gas powered) whats it cost entry level just for back yard/parking lot play to get into one of them rigs?? have any good links to any web sites about those things?
Click to expand...
 

onefstsnake

New Member
Nov 25, 2005
792
1
0
Northern VA
Mar 6, 2006
#19
  • Mar 6, 2006
  • #19
Well those diffs alone will cost you $240

I dont own that truck any more. But it was a blast.

I used to take it to the BMX track and get 25-30' of air easily.
Since the truck was almost completely aluminum nothing broke. Oh and its 7075 aluminum not the cheap 6061.

I had about $2K into it and I raced it in the RC Pro Series on the East Coast.
I parted it out about 3 months ago, and made about $1,200

Here is my newest toy...

Some Assembly Required...lol Like 800+ parts






Finished Product


Power Plant from Italy





And for a video of my Buggy.
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=73614
http://www.rcpics.net/view_single.php?medid=73615
 

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