In theory yes,
You also shoud clean the calipers, grease the bearings(or at least check), turn the rotors, and depress the caliper all befor you "slap the new ones on".
Most Auto part stores will turn the rotors(4) for about 15$.
I wouldn't get them turned if you aren't getting any pulsating in the breaks. You use a C-clamp or a channel locks to compress the piston back in on the caliper and put some silicone on the back of the pad were is meets the caliper so it doesn't squeak, this is where a lot of squeeking comes from. All in all it is really simple. Good luck.
I wouldn't get them turned if you aren't getting any pulsating in the breaks. You use a C-clamp or a channel locks to compress the piston back in on the caliper and put some silicone on the back of the pad were is meets the caliper so it doesn't squeak, this is where a lot of squeeking comes from. All in all it is really simple. Good luck.
I agree with this (not turning the rotor) - because the FSM says only turn them on the car , for some odd reason.
Anybody know why they recommend that ? It almost sounds like it would be cheaper to buy new ones than buy some kind of tool capable of turning them on the car...
Most stock rotors are cheap,thin cr*p. Most manf. make them this way so by the time you change your brake pads you either have a small warp in the
rotor(s) or you are told they are to thin to turn in the first place and you need to buy new ones. Good aftermarket rotors are quality made and can be turned a few times in their lifespan. I would never replace my rotors with OEM rotors....they are junk for the most part, although there are a few exceptions.
you can turn the rotors off of the car. i think that was put out to spook the smaller shops into thinking they couldnt work on the cars, since an on the car brake lathe is rather pricey.
i usually take the old pad and put it on the pistons and use a C-clamp to compress the pistons together. the pad gets all messed up, but you arent gonna use it again. plus it compresses both pistons together. also another thing i usually do is break open the bleeder right as i pish them in, then close it once they are in. not only does it make pushing the pistons back in easier, it prevents any gunk from going back up the brake line into ABS components.
turning the rotors on the vehicle gives it a true cut to the hub and the least chance of noise and warpage. after several years working on cars only one time i've seen the on the car lathe been required is on a recall for 2003 dodge ram 1500 trucks. for some reason we think its cause of their crappy hub design but either way this was the only thing that fixed the rotors warping. so you figure that out. but for the most part it is a better way to turn them matched to the vehicle and not a machine.