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  • 1965 - 1973 Classic Mustangs -General/Talk-
  • Classic Mustang Specific Tech

Changing motor mounts?

  • Thread starter Thread starter DK832
  • Start date Start date Oct 26, 2006

DK832

New Member
Apr 11, 2006
291
0
0
Copenhagen, DK
Oct 26, 2006
#1
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #1
I'm destroying my rubber mounts pretty fast and have a set of PU mounts ready. How big a job is it to change them? Do I need my friends lift and gearcase/engine jack or can I do it in the driveway? How much needs to come off if anything?
Any pointers much appreciated!

351W in a 69, C4, long tube headers, no PS or AC, stock battery location.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Oct 26, 2006
#2
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #2
Jack the car up on the side you are changing the mount on. Put a jack stand on the frame rail and block your tires. You can use the jack with a block of wood on the bell housing or the front of the motor to raise and support the motor once you get the mount loose. After that it should be straight forward.
 

1320stang

Founding Member
Nov 13, 1998
4,329
23
89
Edmond, Oklahoma
Oct 26, 2006
#3
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #3
I think you need to install an engine limiter. Something to bolt to the driver's side head that runs to the driver's side framerail.
 

iskwezm

10 Year Member
May 24, 2005
4,159
20
79
Rowland Heights,California
Oct 26, 2006
#4
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #4
put a bolt through the mount if you can, i did that on mine and made a $3.00 turnbucke "strap" on mine to keep the engine from torquing over and havent had broken one in years
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
3,749
37
109
LA, CA
Oct 26, 2006
#5
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #5
1320stang said:
I think you need to install an engine limiter. Something to bolt to the driver's side head that runs to the driver's side framerail.
Click to expand...

There was a post about making on of these with some hiem joint/tie rod ends like a year ago on this board. Just about everyone here reped it.
 
6

68conv4sp

New Member
Oct 24, 2005
270
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0
Oct 26, 2006
#6
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #6
I am not sure if this applies, but the set of replacement motor mounts that I used came with a bolt thru each mount. They are the "short" mount spec for a vert.
 
R

Robdogg67

New Member
Dec 23, 2002
148
0
0
Seattle/Tacoma, WA
Oct 26, 2006
#7
  • Oct 26, 2006
  • #7
I see threads like this over and over again where folks don't replace their original motor mounts when they rebuild the engine or swap them with the OEM replacements that fail within a couple years with a high performance engine.
If your modifying the car and engine for higher performance, it's cheap insurance to swap with a quality aftermarket motor mount like energy suspension brand poly mounts (less than $100 at Summit) or the higher priced TCP or Ron Morris adjustable mounts. Also consider swapping the tranny mount at the same time and you'll never have to worry about them again.
 

DK832

New Member
Apr 11, 2006
291
0
0
Copenhagen, DK
Oct 27, 2006
#8
  • Oct 27, 2006
  • #8
Thanks guys.
The mounts were ok until I put a JW Performance C4 in. The hard shifts have cracked the rubber mounts and that definitely makes me nervous!
Prothane motor and tranny mounts are going in - they dont need to be cross bolted IFAIK.
 
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