Changing motor mounts?

DK832

New Member
Apr 11, 2006
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Copenhagen, DK
I'm destroying my rubber mounts pretty fast and have a set of PU mounts ready. How big a job is it to change them? Do I need my friends lift and gearcase/engine jack or can I do it in the driveway? How much needs to come off if anything?
Any pointers much appreciated!

351W in a 69, C4, long tube headers, no PS or AC, stock battery location.
 
Jack the car up on the side you are changing the mount on. Put a jack stand on the frame rail and block your tires. You can use the jack with a block of wood on the bell housing or the front of the motor to raise and support the motor once you get the mount loose. After that it should be straight forward.
 
1320stang said:
I think you need to install an engine limiter. Something to bolt to the driver's side head that runs to the driver's side framerail.

There was a post about making on of these with some hiem joint/tie rod ends like a year ago on this board. Just about everyone here reped it.
 
I see threads like this over and over again where folks don't replace their original motor mounts when they rebuild the engine or swap them with the OEM replacements that fail within a couple years with a high performance engine.
If your modifying the car and engine for higher performance, it's cheap insurance to swap with a quality aftermarket motor mount like energy suspension brand poly mounts (less than $100 at Summit) or the higher priced TCP or Ron Morris adjustable mounts. Also consider swapping the tranny mount at the same time and you'll never have to worry about them again.
 
Thanks guys.
The mounts were ok until I put a JW Performance C4 in. The hard shifts have cracked the rubber mounts and that definitely makes me nervous!
Prothane motor and tranny mounts are going in - they dont need to be cross bolted IFAIK.