Changing the spark plugs. Got a problem.

88GTCobra

New Member
May 20, 2005
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I did a search and came up with nothing. Anyways I am trying to change my plugs and the 3rd. plug ,on either side of the block,(by 3rd. I mean if you are standing at the front of the engine and it is the 3rd. plug back, Sorry had to clarify that) is in at an angle that I broke it getting it out and broke 2 new ones trying to put them in. I am so frustrated. :bang: I have MAC equal length headers that I think are causing me the problem. The plug socket goes on ok but I can't get the right angle with the socket wrench. The socket wrench gets stuck on the headers and acts as a pry and then breaks the plugs. What can I do to change them. I don't want to pay $190 CDN. to get them replaced but might have to as a last resort. I will try again tonight with a friend to help. Thanks in advance for your help.
 
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They make Spark Plug Sockets that have a swivel built into them. I bought one for the purpose of doing the 2 plugs on the passenger side closest to the firewall.
 
yep to both above. once loose, it may be easier to remove the plug by slipping some fuel hose over the plug and turning the hose. I do this occasionally with hard to reach plugs.

good luck.
 
No problem now. All of the plugs were replaced sucessfully with the help of my friend. I installed NGK plugs. I noticed that the throddle response is even better now :nice: Thanks for the help guys :nice:
 
88GTCobra said:
No problem now. All of the plugs were replaced sucessfully with the help of my friend. I installed NGK plugs. I noticed that the throddle response is even better now :nice: Thanks for the help guys :nice:
I would stick with Autolite 25s or at least Motorcraft plugs, and your Throttle Response will be even better!
 
not to beat a ded horse since you got it going now but never, ever try to install plugs w/ a spark plug socket. Unless u have absolutely no choice. they should always be threaded in by hand so as not to cross thread them/believe me you do not want that headache. anywho you should be able to run them down all the way by hand w/ the help of some wd40 then torque them to spec. Laters
 
anyone see a problem with putting anti-sieze on the spark plug threads? I've been doing this for a couple years on all 3 of mine and all run fine. I ask because some people say you can look at the plugs and see how it's running - the anti-sieze might prevent that. I don't do that anyway
 
TheUser said:
anyone see a problem with putting anti-sieze on the spark plug threads? I've been doing this for a couple years on all 3 of mine and all run fine. I ask because some people say you can look at the plugs and see how it's running - the anti-sieze might prevent that. I don't do that anyway
James, I see no issues at all. I also use neverseize (copper is a little better than aluminum, but it really does not matter).
It can be a real PITA to read EFI-car plugs on a street car (I used to read motorcycle plugs, but that was a different animal). One should be at the right temp, etc, and then shut down at WOT - not optimal on a street car or convenient. Plus EFI, with its innate tune, makes it kind hard to read the plugs, IMHO. So I say who cares. Neverseize away. :)