Charcoal Canister Idea

[7991LXnSHO]

Lets pretend I am talking about an old Ford that happens to say Olds on it.
This antique has a vent line from the gas tank that is open to the air, (it dumps behind the passenger rear tire on the frame) and I think that is why it is stinking up the garage like hot, but unburned gas when parked hot. (It is BAD!) There is no return line from the pump on this year, but I do not see that mattering. And it does not have any carb, fuel pump or line leaks that I can find. The smell is not from under the hood or from the gas cap. I am tired of parking the car outside to cool off, then moving it in.

I have seen polished alluminum charcoal tanks in the street rod magazines for this purpose, but an oem salvage yard part would be cheaper and if kept out of sight, who cares. What would it take to use a Stang charcoal tank? Since the gas cap is sealed, the car will recycle the vapors when sucking the air back into the overflow tube. But is this really enough to clear it out? Or do I have to get a key on power source and use a vac line to the intake in order to use one like the Fox's do?

@jrichker @madmike1157 @other good mechanics

 

[CarMichael Angelo]

Lets pretend I am talking about an old Ford that happens to say Olds on it.
This antique has a vent line from the gas tank that is open to the air, (it dumps behind the passenger rear tire on the frame) and I think that is why it is stinking up the garage like hot, but unburned gas when parked hot. (It is BAD!) There is no return line from the pump on this year, but I do not see that mattering. And it does not have any carb, fuel pump or line leaks that I can find. The smell is not from under the hood or from the gas cap. I am tired of parking the car outside to cool off, then moving it in.

I have seen polished alluminum charcoal tanks in the street rod magazines for this purpose, but an oem salvage yard part would be cheaper and if kept out of sight, who cares. What would it take to use a Stang charcoal tank? Since the gas cap is sealed, the car will recycle the vapors when sucking the air back into the overflow tube. But is this really enough to clear it out? Or do I have to get a key on power source and use a vac line to the intake in order to use one like the Fox's do?

@jrichker @madmike1157 @other good mechanics

I can't answer that one, I typically throw away that part.

 

[jrichker]

The plumbing and parts can be interchanged if you are clever and crafty.

The problem is that the Mustang uses computer control for the solenoid valve to open it and close it during engine operation. I believe that the computer shuts it off at idle and WOT, and opens at cruse.

If you were very crafty, you could rig up a vacuum controlled switch that powered the solenoid only within a specified range of vacuum,. That would be somewhere in the range of 7"-15" or whatever vacuum the engine pulls at cruse.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

The plumbing is no big deal. That the valve opens at certain times, rather than it is open when the motor is on, is what I needed to know first.

Any ideas where to get such a vac operated switch? Would a turbo specialist have access to an adjustable vac switch? Maybe a diesel or water injection system place? If I had an OEM lead I could get one, but it is not ringing any bells?

 

[jrichker]

The plumbing is no big deal. That the valve opens at certain times, rather than it is open when the motor is on, is what I needed to know first.

Any ideas where to get such a vac operated switch? Would a turbo specialist have access to an adjustable vac switch? Maybe a diesel or water injection system place? If I had an OEM lead I could get one, but it is not ringing any bells?

Google is your friend...https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=adjustable+vacuum+operated+switch

http://whitmancontrols.com/ecatalog/Vacuum-Switches/J205V-1S-C12TB-DIS

http://www.plccenter.com/en-US/Buy/WHITMAN CONTROLS/P117V3HK12TS

Or
http://www.designflexswitches.com/switches/psf109s.php

 

[hoopty5.0]

@7991LXnSHO please let me know what you work out. I am switching to an ecm without this provision and want to keep the vent line running to the intake

 

[7991LXnSHO]

My plan (this spring) is to hook up an extension hose to the hard vent line, drive it, park hot, and seal a balloon over the open end of the vent hose. While I am waiting to see if fills the balloon, I will jack up the car to see, again, that there is no leak and to see if any part of the dual exhaust is heating up a fuel line. A heat shield and moving a pipe over would be simpler than adding a canister. And I do not remember it ever doing this before the new exhaust went on.

What happened is the driver's rear tire delaminated on the interstate so I was sliding a bit on the steel cords trying to safely pull over. The almost new rubber bent the rear quarter and ripped up that side of the trunk floor. The body shop drilled out the spot welds for the trunk floor WITHOUT dropping the tank! Then they epoxied in the metal instead of welding it. So I got the car back with nicks and a couple of holes in the top of the tank. The shop closed and the owner left town before I could get him to replace the tank. So I had a radiator shop clean and weld the tank and I used engine paint on top of the tank to prevent rust. I reinstalled it with new lines and clamps

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Hoses, not lines, but the stink remains.