Cheap way to lower a notchback?

1961Mustang · Mar 4, 2012

Hey it's always good to revisit a new way to do old tricks, right? I know there are lots of new products that have been introduced since the last thread on this subject, so: I want to drop my notch about 2". I figure I will need lowering springs, caster/camber plates, and a shock tower brace. What else do I need? I'm on a budget and I want to do as much as I can by myself to save money. I want to have everything I need to complete this project so my car is disabled for the shortest time, and I don't want to get into a situation where I am 90% done but have to wait two weeks for a part I forgot to order. Thanks for any help and advise!

Blown88GT · Mar 4, 2012

You said you are on a budget. What does a shock tower brace have to do with lowering the car? BTW, 2" is too much, 1-1.5" is enough. The quality of the spring is more important than the amount of drop. You don't really need the CC's if you lower the 1" with a quality spring. Struts & shocks are more important.

1961Mustang · Mar 4, 2012

Meant to say strut tower not shock tower. Do I need shorter struts and shocks? So just a set of springs should do the trick? I was thinking I'd need the CCs because it looks like my front wheels are toed in just slightly now, and I thought lowering springs would exacerbate that issue? LMRS offers a nice set of lowering springs for under $200, any recommendations? Do i need new bump-stops? What shocks/struts specifically should i buy? I usually shop LMRS Thanks for the advise my friend!

foxbodymike87 · Mar 4, 2012

strut tower and shock tower are the same thing. you dont need bump stops

jsw81 · Mar 4, 2012

Here is what I run:

SVE lowering springs from Latemodel restoration: $99
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...04-Mustang-Specific-Rate-Red-Lowering-Springs

Ebay camber/caster plates:
For 85-89 mustangs: $109.95
http://www.ebay.com/itm/85-86-87-88...es&vxp=mtr&hash=item3362a98dfe#ht_2950wt_1270

For 90-93 mustangs: $115
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FRONT-CAMBER-CASTER-KIT-MUSTANG-90-93-/260946352050?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year:1993|Model:Mustang&vxp=mtr&hash=item3cc19d57b2#ht_1397wt_1270

Front spring isolators (highly recommended, IMO): $35.99
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/item/PT-61703BL/1979-04-Mustang-Urethane-Front-Spring-Isolators

Rear spring isolators (highly recommended, IMO): $24.99
http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...stang-GT-V6-Prothane-Rear-Spring-Isolator-set

So your looking at about $275 plus alignment. Not too shabby!

I run KYB GR2 shocks and struts; installed by previous owner. Stock would be fine for a while if they are in good shape. Remember ride quality will suffer.

Bullitt347 · Mar 4, 2012

Why are spring isolators "highly recommended"? Don't use them, save the $60.00 and the car sits about 1/4" lower.

jsw81 · Mar 4, 2012

Bullitt347 said:
Why are spring isolators "highly recommended"? Don't use then, save the $60.00 and the car sits about 1/4" lower.

Don't know about you, but I am not a fan of the metal on metal contact. Might as well spend the $60 and do it the first time.

Plus the LRS springs already lower it about 2".

Bullitt347 · Mar 4, 2012

The springs where they meet the metal are not "moving parts". There is no difference in ride quality or noise by not using the isolators. I have performed lowing spring installs on Fox Body and newer cars at least 100 times and never had a customer complain, ever. I had a few customers supply the isolator and request they be installed, which I did, but no one who did not have them ever complained or came back to have them installed. I also in 20 years of doing this have never seen a "wear" issue from lack of isolators.

jsw81 · Mar 4, 2012

Bullitt347 said:
The springs where they meet the metal are not "moving parts". There is no difference in ride quality or noise by not using the isolators. I have performed lowing spring installs on Fox Body and newer cars at least 100 times and never had a customer complain, ever. I had a few customers supply the isolator and request they be installed, which I did, but no one who did not have them ever complained or came back to have them installed. I also in 20 years of doing this have never seen a "wear" issue from lack of isolators.

Cool story bro. The OP doesn't have to do it, just what I prefer for my springs.

foxbodymike87 · Mar 4, 2012

Bullitt347 said:
The springs where they meet the metal are not "moving parts". There is no difference in ride quality or noise by not using the isolators. I have performed lowing spring installs on Fox Body and newer cars at least 100 times and never had a customer complain, ever. I had a few customers supply the isolator and request they be installed, which I did, but no one who did not have them ever complained or came back to have them installed. I also in 20 years of doing this have never seen a "wear" issue from lack of isolators.

i didnt use them and it caused rubbing between the spring and the control arm in the rear, wich caused rusting and the spring was junk.

Bullitt347 · Mar 4, 2012

Exactly. I am not saying one way or the other is "better" than the other. One way is cheaper and that was what he was about.

Bullitt347 · Mar 4, 2012

foxbodymike87 said:
i didnt use them and it caused rubbing between the spring and the control arm in the rear, wich caused rusting and the spring was junk.

I do not live in a rust belt, so I have never seen this. If you live in the rust belt, then by all means use them if it will save the springs from rusting.

foxbodymike87 · Mar 4, 2012

Bullitt347 said:
I do not live in a rust belt, so I have never seen this. If you live in the rust belt, then by all means use them if it will save the springs from rusting.

welcome to New England

wythors · Mar 4, 2012

Speaking from personal back to back comparison, spring isolators noticeably reduce ride harshness.

On another note, the SVE springs are specific rate. Yes, they will lower the car, but the ride quality will be quite stiff. I'd recommend a variable rate spring like an Eibach Prokit or something similar.

jsw81 · Mar 4, 2012

wythors said:
Speaking from personal back to back comparison, spring isolators noticeably reduce ride harshness.

On another note, the SVE springs are specific rate. Yes, they will lower the car, but the ride quality will be quite stiff. I'd recommend a variable rate spring like an Eibach Prokit or something similar.

Yep, the ride quality will suffer with the SVE's. I don't mind it too much. If my car was a daily driver, that's a different story.

Bullitt347 · Mar 4, 2012

wythors said:
Speaking from personal back to back comparison, spring isolators noticeably reduce ride harshness.

On another note, the SVE springs are specific rate. Yes, they will lower the car, but the ride quality will be quite stiff. I'd recommend a variable rate spring like an Eibach Prokit or something similar.

I guess some people are more sensitive or "in tune" with these types of things than I am. Dare I say "Princess and the Pea?" Anyway I agree about using a variable rate spring, much more liveable than the specific rate.

wythors · Mar 4, 2012

You know what they say about opinions, right?

Bullitt347 · Mar 5, 2012

Yeah, I am reminded all the time, but what can I say, I am an equal opportunity verbal abuser. I pick on everyone! Naturally I expect to get back what I give, all in good fun of coarse .

Want2GoFaster · Mar 5, 2012

From what I've read about them, the SVE springs will give a stock ride feel only about 2" lower because they have the same spring rate as stock - just 2" shorter. In fact I have a set sitting in my garage. I installed them in the rear of my '94 GT and it raised the ass-end about an inch from where I'm at with my Sportlines. I pulled them back out without even running them.

95Vert383AOD · Mar 5, 2012

I used H&R race springs. what i did notice was 1/2 coil snapped off the front spring and was sitting in the lower arm. From the looks of it moisture sat between the rubber isolator and spring causing it to rot even faster. Then again i'm from New England too.

Cheap way to lower a notchback?

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