Check engine light

95Cobra331 · May 10, 2007

I have a 1995 Cobra with the stock motor. Recently the check engine light has been coming on after about 5 minutes of driving and stays on until the car is turned off.
When you go to restart the same problem still continues. There are no trouble codes showing up when I hook a diagnostic device to the computer. Its not weather related or temperature related. Does this issue everytime and
same time. Anyoen else have this problem before?

HISSIN50 · May 10, 2007

The issue is that you're not seeing the code during the retrieval process. That's not correct.

Just to be sure (I'm sure you're really conversant with stangs, but you're new [welcome BTW!] and we don't have a feel for how knowledgable you are)............ You are using the DTC under the hood to retrieve codes, right? If it works properly, you should see your code or atleast a 111 to let you know that it ran through the process.

It sounds like it could be an O2 or EGR code, but that's a pure guess, and there is no need to guess. We just need to get you set-up so you can see your code.

Good luck.

95Cobra331 · May 10, 2007

Correct, I am using the DTC under hood and when I do run the KOEO it does infact give a code 111 for no trouble found. I replaced the oxygen sensors because I thought maybe one had bad voltage readings. No black smoke or rough idle at all. It maybe Thermactor or EGR but I just may delete all that stuff anyway. I am fixing to install a 331 and just wanted to find the issue before I put a new drivetrain in.

HISSIN50 · May 11, 2007

Sounds good - like I said, we figured you knew your stuff (sometimes we realize that someone from a parts store tried to use the OBD-II port to yank codes).

Since you're on the ball, your thoughts sound good. At this point, if you have a buddy with a scanner (not reader) whom can view PIDs, you might be able to see what sensor is out of whack. It's just a quick thing to try if it's easily feasible.

I cannot think of a soft code that wouldnt leave anything stored in the KAM. This is kinda weird.

The new mill sounds cool. Good luck.

TheDamned · May 11, 2007

Welcome aboard, hope you can fix that problem... a 1995 Cobra

95Cobra331 · May 11, 2007

Thanks for the welcome.

I have hooked up my CP9150 and looked at the PIDs. What little information it gave,
it all looked ok. I was just curious if anyone may have had this issue before. Would like to clear this up before hooking up the Anderson PMS. I am goin to install a new setup in this car. Decided it was time since the car has 152,000 miles on it lol.
Here is what I put together so far:

331 Eagle forged stroker kit
Sportsman Block
Afr 185 heads
Trickflow track heat intake
Pro-M maf with 55 lb injectors
Vortech T-Trim supercharger
Anderson PMS
Spec 3 clutch
Tremec TKO 500
Eaton differential with 31 spline axles

Picture of the motor

Picture of the car

rj95svt · May 11, 2007

That's a very clean car! It sure doesn't look like it has 152,000 on it. Looks like you have a well thought out combo. Should be good for well over 500rwhp I would think. Good luck with the check engine light situation. My check engine light does the same thing yours does. The very first time I hooked up the scanner I hooked it up on the abs diagnostics port and didn't get any codes before I realized there was two one for the abs and one for the engine behind the passenger side strut tower. I doubt this helps but I know it's a mistake I made.

95Cobra331 · May 17, 2007

Finally got a code on this. Code 311........I am guessing its either my termactor pump or the diverter. Hope this helps anyone else that has this issue. I will write a final report once I track down the defective part. Thanks again for the help.

HISSIN50 · May 17, 2007

If 311 is an A.I.R. code (AIR 1 or AIR 2 in 94-95 terms; TAB or TAD in fox III terms), and you dont have your A.I.R system functional, then that's it. The puter can only tell if the TAB and TAD are connected (it has no idea if the pump or lines are even present). A resistor can be used to trick the puter if the CEL is bothersome. Or just self-tune/have the chip burner turn the AIR function off.

Good luck - and agreed. The car is hot! I'm an SS stripe guy myself, albeit a bit differently.

95Cobra331 · May 17, 2007

The whole pump system is still on the car, but I would like to remove it with the new motor and still keep it complete just in case. I am installing a PMS, so I would have to fool the ecm somehow. Do you remember what value resistor is required and what wire I would have to wire it to?

HISSIN50 · May 17, 2007

95Cobra331 said:
The whole pump system is still on the car, but I would like to remove it with the new motor and still keep it complete just in case. I am installing a PMS, so I would have to fool the ecm somehow. Do you remember what value resistor is required and what wire I would have to wire it to?

It's going to take some digging (I have smog testing and have to keep all this crap on the car). I think I recall it being like a 80 or 90 Ohm resistor, but I'm pulling that out of my toosh.

cbarr300 · May 18, 2007

Can't you turn that off with a PMS? Sorry, I use a tweecer and am not familiar with the PMS.

Ya know, at first (before you got a code) I was just gonna say that maybe the car knows you're putting that engine in...and doesn't want you to romp on it too hard

It sounds like you did your homework on that combo...what kind of cam do you have going in there? custom grind I'm guessing?

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