Choosing Suspension components

Get the progressive rate springs

I recommend the progressive rate, for a street car I didn't want a stiff jarring ride, I'm running the Eibachs and regular monroe shocks in the front and "load leveler" shocks on the back with regular springs. Pleasant ride, firm but not jarring and handles very well with 15x7 wheels, I'm hoping the shelby drop will help some more and I have a rear sway bar if that's not enough. I wanted something I could take to the track occasionally and still be able to go on long cruises without back and neck aches, I'm pleased with it so far.

Sub frame connectors - definitely get them.
Install Monte Carlo bar - do it.
Bump steer corrector kit - do it
Adjustable Eccentric Eliminator Kit - do it.

Some more confusion for you:
I was told In the 60's they didn't have the suspension products we have today so you ran stiff springs with the stock style equiptment to mask a bad suspension curve.
But if you're running todays suspension products (Global west, TCP, Wedge kit etc..) you have suspension that would love to work, so a progressive spring with not so hard core rates will work better.
While Going into a turn with progressive rate springs, the inner spring will produce a stiffer rate where the outer spring will produce a lighter rate because the suspension is working like it was made to work, resulting in better handeling.

Which ever way you go, you'll love the results .
Check out Pro-Motorsports in Utah.

Please dis-regard the last post above by me. I Should of done more research before opening my big mouth.

I just had a long conversation with Doug at Global West. He doesnt like the progressive spring technology with his negative roll kit. he says the vehicle gets too many rate changes, no time to react, by the time it reacts , the car is experiencing different needs. He likes a fixed rate.

HERESY! NAYSAYER! LOON!!! DON'T LISTEN TO HIM.... HIS CAR IS MADE OF CARDBOARD, DUCT TAPE, AND JB WELD! MY HIGH TECH PARTICLE BOARD CAR IS MUCH FASTER AND HANDLES BETTER...

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hey don't forget the bailing wire, no classic stang is complete without at least 5 feet of bailing wire