Chunky Oil?

illwood

Member

Apr 3, 2004

636

1

19

Worcester, MA

Apr 29, 2005

#1

• Apr 29, 2005

• #1

I just did an oil and filter change this morning (Mobil 1 and a NAPA gold filter). The old oil (Pennzoil synthetic) when I was pouring it from the drain pan to the jug for recycling, there were some thick parts in the oil that poured out.

Has anyone ever seen this? I'm planning on going to street night to get my first 1/4 mile time slip this afternoon. Should I not go?

 

SilverFoxbody

New Member

Apr 7, 2005

149

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0

Apr 29, 2005

#2

• Apr 29, 2005

• #2

302's are notorious for sludging up....drain the oil HOT and often. make sure the PCV is good also.

 

illwood

Member

Apr 3, 2004

636

1

19

Worcester, MA

Apr 29, 2005

#3

• Apr 29, 2005

• #3

So the engine just takes a dump in the oil pan. . .

I was changing it right at 3,000 miles.

Is the sludge the cause of my fluctuating oil pressure?

 

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.

Oct 22, 2004

930

4

18

Arlington, MA

Apr 29, 2005

#4

• Apr 29, 2005

• #4

Mix a 1/2 quart of ATF into the motor oil. ATF has detergents that will clean out the motor from the inside out. Drain the oil with the engine at operating temperature (wear gloves). This lets the oil drain in liquid form and not chunk form.

Hey chunky is better in the waste oil than still inside the motor, right?

 

T

TbonesBlack92GT

New Member

Apr 19, 2005

25

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Apr 29, 2005

#5

• Apr 29, 2005

• #5

I bought a an 80k mile 302 a number of years ago that had the same issue. The motor ran great and all, and the oil on the dip stick looked good, but once I got it home and changed the oil it had this crud in it. The owner clamed they ran Pennzoil exclusively in it since new and changed it frequently. Obvioulsy, Pennzoil does not, or did not, have a very effective detergent compound and does have a high wax content. The insides of the valve covers were caked with sludge and when I swapped in a rear main seal a couple of years later and found the pan the same way. I ended up adding a couple quarts of diesel to the oil to flush the motor out (at the suggestion of an old time hot rodder) and it worked quite well.

Personnally, I use Valvoline 20-50w or the durablend and change it often, when hot, along with a Pure One filter. Everyone's taste is different on oils and filters, but Valvoline is used by all the local racers and mechanics I know and I have seen a few tests placing Valvoline at the top.

 

monte87

Founding Member

Feb 26, 2001

876

18

49

new york

Apr 29, 2005

#6

• Apr 29, 2005

• #6

Could pennzoil-Maybe?

The only thing pennzoil i use-Is Pennzoil Mercon V tranny fluid for my AOD.... thats about it!
Try changing oil brands and see what you come up with. Personally-i only use Royal purple full SYN. 5/30 and K&N oil filters. never had that prob!

Anthony

 

T

TbonesBlack92GT

New Member

Apr 19, 2005

25

0

0

Apr 29, 2005

#7

• Apr 29, 2005

• #7

Local Ford Guru Ricardo Lopez (Monkey Wrench Racing, Bend, Oregon) suggests adding Power Punch to all oil changes especially synthetic, because synthetic is so slick that not much, if any, remians in bearings, rockers, etc.... after them motor is shut off.

I can attest to this as I ran Mobil 1 in my 383 (72 Nova) and during the first 4 or 5 seconds of a cold start up the roller rockers were tick/clack farily loudly. I added pewer punch, the noise vanished. cheap, but effective, insurance.

 

DJTR

Member

Mar 19, 2004

228

0

16

OTTAWA, Ontario, Canada

Apr 29, 2005

#8

• Apr 29, 2005

• #8

I dunno personaly I'm a fan of Lucas Oil Treatment, Had nothing but good luck with it! Acutaly all their products, but anyhow yeah theres my 2c!

 

89MustangGX

I have nothing productive to add!

Jul 3, 2001

10,262

1

0

Mill Creek, WA

Apr 29, 2005

#9

• Apr 29, 2005

• #9

TbonesBlack92GT said:

Local Ford Guru Ricardo Lopez (Monkey Wrench Racing, Bend, Oregon) suggests adding Power Punch to all oil changes especially synthetic, because synthetic is so slick that not much, if any, remians in bearings, rockers, etc.... after them motor is shut off.

I can attest to this as I ran Mobil 1 in my 383 (72 Nova) and during the first 4 or 5 seconds of a cold start up the roller rockers were tick/clack farily loudly. I added pewer punch, the noise vanished. cheap, but effective, insurance.

Click to expand...

This is the first I've heard of a person reporting this. For the most part, all synthetics seem to coat the metal better (even though they are more 'slick'). Having valvetrain noise due to synthetics seems highly unusual to me.

 

88stangmangt

Active Member

Nov 25, 2003

2,332

1

48

Stafford,VA

Apr 29, 2005

#10

• Apr 29, 2005

• #10

TbonesBlack92GT said:

Personnally, I use Valvoline 20-50w or the durablend and change it often, when hot, along with a Pure One filter. Everyone's taste is different on oils and filters, but Valvoline is used by all the local racers and mechanics I know and I have seen a few tests placing Valvoline at the top.

Click to expand...

good god poor motor....20w-50 my shop uses 15-40 in all the diesel motors i run ow-30 flow is the best insurance........that oil covers eveything......i even had the valve seals upgraded in my heads to make sure it wouldnt leak past...

 

88stangmangt

Active Member

Nov 25, 2003

2,332

1

48

Stafford,VA

Apr 29, 2005

#11

• Apr 29, 2005

• #11

89MustangGX said:

This is the first I've heard of a person reporting this. For the most part, all synthetics seem to coat the metal better (even though they are more 'slick'). Having valvetrain noise due to synthetics seems highly unusual to me.

Click to expand...

yup......i agree..........

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

Nov 29, 1999

31,179

34

129

Apr 29, 2005

#12

• Apr 29, 2005

• #12

last time i checked, it requires a good bit of force to get the oil film out of the bearings - it does not just run out.

i feel for those poor hyper and supercars that get synthetic from the factory. we wont discuss PAE basestock, which is noted for its ability to cling to metal.

 

crazypete

All my crevices are greased.

Oct 22, 2004

930

4

18

Arlington, MA

May 2, 2005

#13

• May 2, 2005

• #13

I actually second the valvetrain noise phenomena. Every car I ever put synthetic (mobil-1 10w-30 in a 89 saab 9000T, 95 toyota corolla, 93 t-bird, 91 and 87 5.0 mustangs) all sound like diesels right after the oilchange. Rappity rappity rappity from the top of the engine and churgle churgle from deep inside. And this was also on the brand brand shiny new 95 corolla the family bought back in the day. I _know_ it is lubricating better but I feel noise is a sign of vibration and vibration causes stress and failure.

20W-50 regular dino oil pimps. It silences everything and slows an oilleak to nothing.

 

H

Horsepower67

New Member

Feb 1, 2004

62

0

0

May 14, 2005

#14

• May 14, 2005

• #14

Believe it or not, it's not your car, it's the oil. Pennzoil can do this sometimes, particularly the synthetic stuff. I used to work at an autoparts store a couple years back, it's something we knew about (insider knowledge, don't ask) and that's why no one used Pennzoil.
I like Valvoline 20W50 VR1 Racing personally

 

Jason 302

10 Year Member

Aug 9, 2003

685

71

68

Newark, Ohio

May 14, 2005

#15

• May 14, 2005

• #15

Quaker State is known for sludging up as well. I run Valvoline 10w-30. I have also ran Kendall 10w-30 a couple times. I would say change the type of oil your using.